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Jaja uli (Balinese pounded sticky rice cake)

Jaja uli is one of the rice cakes that Balinese families make in the days before Galungan, when the island celebrates the victory of dharma over adharma and the ancestors come home; it is stacked into the towering banten offerings and then shared and eaten. Glutinous rice is steamed, soaked in hot salted coconut milk, steamed again and then pounded until the grains break down into a dense, smooth, chewy block with a gentle coconut flavour. Slice it thickly and pour over warm palm sugar syrup, or toast the slices in a dry pan until crisp at the edges. A tall cup of tea or coffee is the perfect partner. Chef's tip: pound while the rice is still hot; once it cools, the grains won't knit together.

90 min

Indonesian Desserts

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Tmar mehchi (Moroccan almond-stuffed dates)

Tmar mehchi is the stuffed date of Fez and Marrakech, piled high on silver trays at weddings, engagements and Eid, and offered to guests with mint tea. Soft dates are filled with a homemade almond paste perfumed with orange-blossom water, often tinted pale green or pink to match the celebration, then scored with a knife so the filling shows. They are soft, rich and caramel-sweet, with a floral, nutty middle. The paste here is mixed from ground almonds and icing sugar, so there is no shop marzipan, which can contain egg white. It is naturally egg-free: the dates' sticky flesh and a few spoonfuls of orange-blossom water bind the almond filling. Chef's tip: add the orange-blossom water a little at a time and stop when the paste is firm like play dough. The common mistake is a wet paste, which oozes out and makes the dates slippery.

30 min

Moroccan Desserts

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Be celeng base manis (Balinese sweet soy pork)

Be celeng base manis means "pork in sweet spices" in Balinese, and it is cooked in Hindu households around Galungan, when pork is prepared on Penampahan, the day before the festival, and shared with family and the temple. Chunks of pork shoulder are braised slowly with plenty of shallots, garlic, ginger and galangal in kecap manis, the thick Indonesian sweet soy sauce, until the meat is soft and the sauce has turned dark, sticky and glossy. It is sweet, savoury and only gently warm, so it suits everyone at the table. Serve it with steamed rice, a crisp vegetable such as long beans and some sambal for those who want heat. Chef's tip: let the sauce reduce only in the last 15 minutes, uncovered, so it coats the pork without burning.

95 min

Indonesian Meat

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Urutan (Balinese spiced pork sausage)

Urutan is the Balinese pork sausage made for Galungan: pork and pork fat are chopped with a turmeric-rich base genep, stuffed into casings and hung to dry in the breeze, so that the festival meat lasts for days after the feast. The finished sausage is golden yellow inside, garlicky, peppery and gently sour from drying, and it is always fried or grilled before eating. At home, make it either as a fresh sausage kept in the fridge, or air-dry it in the fridge with curing salt for the firmer, tangy traditional style. Serve slices with rice, sambal matah and a fried egg, or with drinks as a snack. Chef's tip: keep the meat, fat and equipment ice-cold throughout; warm fat smears and the sausage turns crumbly and greasy.

240 min

Indonesian Meat

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Balinese spiced roast pork belly (babi guling style)

Babi guling is the great feast dish of Bali for Galungan and temple ceremonies: at the festival, a whole pig is stuffed with spice paste and turned on a spit over a wood fire for hours. This home version uses a slab of skin-on pork belly instead, with the same base genep stuffing rubbed into the meat and the same goal: tender, spice-soaked pork under crisp, golden crackling. Turmeric, galangal, lemongrass and chilli give it heat and a bright yellow colour, and the pork fat keeps every slice juicy. Serve it sliced with steamed rice, a little of the cooked spice from the tin, long beans and a sharp, fresh sambal matah. Chef's tip: leave the skin uncovered in the fridge overnight; a really dry skin is the secret of crackling that shatters.

360 min

Indonesian Meat

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Geplak (Bantul coconut sugar candy)

Drive south from Yogyakarta to Bantul and you pass shop after shop selling geplak, the brightly coloured coconut candy that Javanese travellers buy by the basket as oleh-oleh, a gift for the people back home. Freshly grated coconut is cooked in sugar syrup until it dries and begins to crystallise, then a spoonful of toasted rice flour pulls it together into a firm, sandy-textured sweet. It is very sweet and coconutty with a gentle pandan scent, and it crumbles softly when you bite it. Serve small pieces with strong Javanese coffee or tea. Geplak is naturally egg-free: the recrystallising sugar and the toasted rice flour are what bind the coconut and let it hold its shape. Chef's tip: cook over a medium heat rather than high; the common mistake is rushing, which browns the coconut and dulls those pastel colours.

80 min

Indonesian Desserts

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Marzipankartoffeln (German marzipan potatoes)

In Germany the run-up to Christmas is when these appear, piled in paper bags at the markets and in bowls on the Advent table; Lübeck, the city most famous for marzipan, makes them by the tonne. They are simply small balls of marzipan dusted in cocoa until they look like freshly dug new potatoes, sometimes with a few pricked 'eyes'. The inside is soft, sweet and fragrant with almond and a hint of rosewater; the cocoa coat is bitter and dry, which keeps the sweetness in check. Serve them with coffee, tuck them into a cookie tin or wrap them as small gifts. Shop marzipan sometimes contains egg white, so this one is made from scratch: a sugar syrup cooked to the soft-ball stage binds the ground almonds into a smooth, pliable paste, doing the job egg white does in some commercial pastes, and the result is naturally egg-free. Chef's tip: the common mistake is kneading the warm paste too long, which squeezes oil out of the almonds and makes it greasy; knead only until it comes together, then let it cool.

30 min

German Desserts

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Karpfen blauCarp poached in vinegar stock

In Franconia and Bavaria, Christmas Eve supper is often carp, and the old way is 'blau': the fish is poached in a sharp vinegar stock that turns its natural skin slime a striking slate blue. It is served with melted butter, freshly grated horseradish and boiled potatoes, and many families keep a carp scale in their wallet for good luck in the year ahead. Buy carp already killed and gutted by the fishmonger, and ask for it unscaled and handled as little as possible, or the blue colour won't appear. Chef's tip: never rinse or wipe the carp skin, because the slime is what turns blue.

60 min

German Fish

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Jaja begina (Balinese sun-dried rice crackers)

Jaja begina are the round rice crackers that fill Balinese offering towers for Galungan; once the prayers are said, the crackers come home as a crunchy snack for everyone. Steamed glutinous rice is pressed into thin discs and dried in the sun for days until rock hard, and then a quick fry makes them puff up, turn pale gold and become light and crisp. A thread of warm palm sugar syrup over the top makes them sweet and sticky. Without strong sun, a low oven does the drying in an afternoon. Chef's tip: make a big batch of the dried discs; stored airtight they keep for months, and you can fry a few whenever you like.

120 min

Indonesian Snacks & Starters

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SpringerleAnise biscuits

Springerle are among the oldest Christmas biscuits of Swabia and Baden in south-west Germany, made in Advent with carved wooden moulds and boards handed down in families, which print scenes of angels, animals and flowers onto the dough. The dough is only eggs, sugar and flour with aniseed underneath. The pressed biscuits are left to dry overnight, so that in the oven the picture stays sharp on top while a little 'foot' rises underneath. They are hard when fresh and soften in a tin after a week. Chef's tip: dust the mould with flour and tap out the excess every time, or the dough sticks and the picture blurs.

80 min

German Baking

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Tum ayam (Balinese steamed spiced chicken parcels)

Tum ayam are small banana-leaf parcels made in Bali for Galungan and family ceremonies, when they appear on festive plates and in offerings alongside lawar and satay; wrapping the food in leaf is part of how Balinese cooking shows care for what is offered. Minced chicken is mixed with cooked base genep, a spoonful of coconut cream and shredded lime leaf, then folded into leaves and steamed until firm and juicy. The banana leaf gives a gentle, tea-like aroma, and the filling is spicy, fragrant and moist, like a soft spiced pâté. Serve the parcels with rice and a vegetable dish, letting everyone unwrap their own. Chef's tip: cool the fried paste completely before it meets the raw chicken, so the mixture stays cold and safe and the parcels hold their shape.

60 min

Indonesian Chicken

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Jukut ares (Balinese banana stem soup with chicken)

Jukut ares is cooked in Bali for Galungan and the ceremonies around it, when families gather at home and the kitchen turns out dishes for days; the humble banana tree, which gives fruit, leaves and stem, stands for the generosity of the land. The soft white core of the trunk is sliced thin and simmered in a broth built on base genep, the island's master spice paste, until it is tender and slightly silky, like a cross between bamboo shoot and leek. Villages often use pork bones; this version uses chicken thighs, which make a lighter, golden, peppery broth. Serve it in bowls with steamed rice and sambal. Chef's tip: soak the sliced stem in salted water and pull off the stringy fibres as you go, or the soup turns grey and stringy.

90 min

Indonesian Soups

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Lontong Cap Go MehRice cakes with chicken curries

Lontong Cap Go Meh is the Peranakan Chinese feast for Cap Go Meh, the fifteenth and last night of Imlek (Chinese New Year) in Java, where Chinese and Javanese traditions meet on one plate. It is not the everyday lontong sayur, which is simply rice cakes in a vegetable curry: this is the full festive spread, with rice cakes, yellow opor chicken in coconut milk, sayur lodeh vegetables, eggs simmered in the opor, and spicy sambal goreng potatoes, all ladled into one bowl. The long rice cakes are said to stand for long life, the golden opor for prosperity and the round eggs for luck. Rich, creamy, sweet and spicy all at once, it needs nothing more than krupuk and fried shallots. Chef's tip: cook the lontong a day ahead and chill it overnight, so it slices cleanly and the feast day is calmer.

150 min

Indonesian Rice & Grains

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Es pisang ijo (Makassar green banana dessert)

Es pisang ijo, green banana ice, is the pride of Makassar in South Sulawesi. It is everywhere during Ramadan as the sweet that breaks the fast at sunset, and sold year-round from stalls by the Losari waterfront. A whole steamed banana is wrapped in a thin, soft jacket of pandan-green rice-flour dough, sliced, laid on a pool of warm salty coconut porridge sauce, then buried under shaved ice and a sharp pink syrup. Cold, warm, salty, sweet and fragrant, all in one bowl. It is naturally egg-free: rice flour cooked with coconut milk and pandan juice makes a smooth, pliable dough that binds without any egg, and a little more rice flour thickens the sauce. Chef's tip: use firm but ripe bananas with a few freckles; the common mistake is very soft ones, which turn to mush inside the dough while steaming.

65 min

Indonesian Desserts

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Botok tempeTempeh and coconut in banana leaf

In village kitchens of Central and East Java, from Klaten to Kediri, botok is a weekday parcel dish: crumbled tempeh mixed with freshly grated coconut, chilli, galangal and a little palm sugar, wrapped in banana leaf with a bay leaf and steamed until set. It comes to the table at lunch, unwrapped beside rice, and tastes of toasted coconut and bay, moist and crumbly rather than saucy. Each portion has about 125 g of tempeh plus coconut, giving roughly 24 g of protein, mainly from the tempeh. The common mistake is wrapping the parcels loosely, so steam gets in and the filling turns wet; fold them snugly and pin them shut. Chef's tip: squeeze a little of the coconut through your fingers before mixing; if it feels dry, add a spoon or two of water so the botok binds when it steams.

55 min

Indonesian Vegetarian

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GrünkernbratlingeGreen spelt patties

Grünkern is spelt picked while still green and dried over beech smoke, a speciality of the Bauland and Odenwald in northern Baden. Simmered and shaped into Bratlinge, it became the vegetarian patty of German wholefood kitchens and school canteens, eaten for a weekday lunch with potato salad or a crisp green salad. They are nutty and slightly smoky, crisp outside and soft within. With the herb quark, one portion of three patties gives about 23 g of protein, from the spelt, eggs, mountain cheese and quark. Hard mountain cheese is often made with animal rennet, so choose one labelled vegetarian if that matters to you. The usual mistake is frying the mixture while it is still warm and loose; it must cool and firm up first, or the patties fall apart in the pan. Chef's tip: use coarsely cracked green spelt rather than whole grains; it soaks up the stock evenly and binds without any extra flour.

50 min

German Vegetarian

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Sayur sopClear vegetable soup

Sayur sop is the clear vegetable soup cooked in homes all over Indonesia, from Medan to Surabaya, on any ordinary weeknight and whenever a child is poorly; it is spooned over rice beside fried tofu or tempeh. Most families make it with chicken stock, so this is the vegetarian version, built on vegetable stock with fried shallots and celery leaf for depth. It is gentle, savoury and fragrant with nutmeg and white pepper, and children love it. It has about 4 g of protein per portion, from the vegetables and macaroni; add cubes of firm tofu for more. The common mistake is boiling it hard, which clouds the broth and breaks the potato; keep it at a lazy simmer. Chef's tip: fry the garlic and shallot in a little oil before they go in, rather than adding them raw, for a broth that tastes much richer than it is.

40 min

Indonesian Soups

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Tahu tekFried tofu with peanut sauce

After dark in Surabaya, the tahu tek seller's cart is easy to find: listen for the tek-tek-tek of scissors snipping fried tofu, potato and egg into bite-sized pieces straight onto the plate, before it all disappears under bean sprouts, cucumber and a thick peanut sauce. It is a supper dish, filling and saucy. The street version stirs petis, a black shrimp paste, into the sauce; this vegetarian version leaves it out and gets its depth from sweet soy, tamarind and fried garlic instead. A portion gives about 32 g of protein, from the tofu, egg and peanuts. The common mistake is making the sauce too thin; it should be thick enough to sit on top of the tofu. Chef's tip: grind the peanuts with the garlic and chilli while the fried peanuts are still warm, so the oil releases and the sauce turns creamy.

45 min

Indonesian Vegetarian

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Grüner BohnensalatGreen bean salad

In German kitchens from Swabia to Westphalia, green bean salad comes out in high summer when beans are cheap and plentiful, as a side to fried eggs, potato salad or grilled food, and it travels well to picnics. The beans are cooked until just tender, then dressed warm with vinegar, oil, onion and Bohnenkraut (summer savory), the peppery herb Germans always pair with beans. Many cooks add bacon; this version is vegan. A portion gives about 3 g of protein, so it is a side; add a handful of white beans to make it more filling. The most common mistake is undercooking the beans so they squeak: German bean salad is meant to be tender, not crisp, so cook until a bean bends without snapping. Chef's tip: dress the beans while they are still warm and let them sit for 30 minutes; they absorb the vinegar and taste far better than freshly dressed.

20 min

German Salads

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Pepes ikanFish steamed in banana leaf

Pepes ikan is everyday Sundanese cooking from Bandung and the hills of West Java, made in the morning and eaten with rice, sambal and raw vegetables at lunch. Fish is rubbed with a yellow paste of turmeric, shallot, candlenut and chilli, scattered with lemon basil, wrapped in banana leaf and steamed, then charred briefly on a grill so the leaf smokes and perfumes it. The flesh comes out moist and fragrant. A portion has about 30 g of protein from the fish. The usual mistake is skipping the steaming and grilling straight away: the outside burns before the fish is cooked. Chef's tip: lemon basil (kemangi) is the signature; if you can't get it, use Thai basil with a little lemon zest.

60 min

Indonesian Fish

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Asinan BetawiPickled vegetable and tofu salad

Asinan Betawi is the cooling salad of old Jakarta, sold from glass-sided carts and eaten mid-afternoon in the heat or brought out at family gatherings in big tubs. Quick-pickled cabbage, cucumber and bean sprouts are piled with cubes of tofu, then soaked in a thin, tangy sauce of chilli, vinegar, palm sugar and ground peanuts. It is crunchy, sour, sweet and spicy all at once. A portion has about 300 kcal and roughly 17 g of protein, from the tofu and peanuts, so it is a light meal rather than a high-protein one. The common mistake is dressing it too early; the vegetables go limp within an hour. Street versions often scatter shrimp crackers on top, so use plain rice or cassava crackers to keep it vegetarian. Chef's tip: chill the sauce well before serving; asinan should be served cold enough to fog the bowl.

40 min

Indonesian Salads

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Ikan kuah asamFish in clear sour broth

Across Ambon in Maluku and the coasts of North Sulawesi, ikan kuah asam is the soup families eat almost daily with papeda or rice, made from whatever fish came in that morning. The broth is thin and clear, bright with lime and tomato, warm with chilli and lemongrass, with chunks of fish poached just until they flake. It is light but filling, with about 28 g of protein a portion from the fish. The common mistake is adding the lime juice too early and boiling it: it turns bitter, so squeeze it in at the end. Chef's tip: use a firm, meaty fish such as tuna, mackerel or snapper, cut into large chunks, so it holds together in the broth.

30 min

Indonesian Fish

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Bubur sumsum (Javanese rice-flour pudding with palm-sugar syrup)

Bubur sumsum, named after bone marrow for its colour and softness, is one of Java's best-loved jajan pasar, sold from carts in the morning and in the late afternoon as a sweet bite. In Javanese custom it is also cooked after a wedding or a big celebration to thank those who helped, as a gentle food for tired bodies. The pudding is pure white, silky and barely salty, and it comes drenched in kinca, a warm syrup of palm sugar and pandan. Serve it warm or at room temperature in small bowls, on a banana leaf if you have one. It is naturally egg-free: rice flour cooked in coconut milk swells and sets it to a soft, spoonable pudding, the way cornflour sets a blancmange. Chef's tip: whisk the rice flour into cold coconut milk before it goes on the heat; adding it to hot liquid is the common mistake that leaves lumps you can't whisk out.

30 min

Indonesian Desserts

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HirsebreiMillet porridge

Hirsebrei is one of the oldest dishes in German cooking, the millet porridge of fairy tales, and it is still made in homes across the country as a warm breakfast or a sweet supper for children on cold evenings. Golden millet is rinsed, then simmered in milk until creamy and soft, and served with stewed apple, berries and a dusting of cinnamon. A bowl gives about 12 g of protein from the milk and millet; stir in a spoon of quark or top with chopped almonds if you want more. The usual mistake is skipping the rinse: unrinsed millet tastes bitter and soapy, so rinse it in hot water until the water runs clear. Chef's tip: toast the rinsed millet in the dry pan for a minute before adding milk; it brings out a lovely nutty flavour.

30 min

German Breakfast & Brunch

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