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709 recipes

Yangchun mianNoodles with spring onion oil

Yangchun mian is the bare-bones noodle bowl of Shanghai and the towns of Jiangsu, slurped late at night or as a cheap supper when nothing else is in the house: thin wheat noodles in a clear, soy-seasoned broth, glossed with spring onion oil and a few greens. Street stalls traditionally melt a spoon of lard into the bowl; this version uses a quickly made spring onion oil and vegetable stock so it stays vegetarian. The common mistake is cooking the noodles in the broth itself, which turns it cloudy and starchy; boil them separately in plenty of water. Chef's tip: put the soy and oil in the empty bowl first and pour the boiling stock onto them, so the soy blooms and the bowl smells like a Shanghai noodle shop.

10 min

Chinese Pasta & Noodles

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Qing chao dou miaoGarlic pea shoots

Dou miao, the tender tips of the pea plant, are a prized spring and winter green in Sichuan restaurants and Cantonese homes alike, and qing chao, plain stir-frying, is the way they are most often cooked for a quick dinner beside rice. The shoots collapse in under a minute and taste sweet, like fresh peas. Buy the larger cooking pea shoots from Chinese grocers, not the tiny salad cress. The common mistake is overcooking: once they turn dark and stringy they lose all their sweetness, so pull them off the heat while a few leaves still look raw. Chef's tip: add a splash of water with the salt; the steam finishes the stems evenly without the leaves frying dry.

7 min

Chinese Vegetarian

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Suan rong sheng caiGarlic stir-fried lettuce

In Guangdong, lettuce is a cooking green, not just a salad leaf: suan rong sheng cai is iceberg or romaine flash-fried with heaps of garlic and a splash of soy, and it appears beside rice at family dinners and in every Hong Kong-style café. The leaves wilt at the edges while the ribs stay juicy and crunchy. Cantonese cooks often add oyster sauce; light soy and a pinch of sugar keep this one vegan. The mistake to avoid is wet leaves: water left on the lettuce spits in the oil and stews the dish, so spin them very dry. Chef's tip: cook it in two batches if your wok is small, because a crowded pan turns lettuce limp and grey in seconds.

8 min

Chinese Vegetarian

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Qing chao wosunStir-fried celtuce

Wosun, celtuce or stem lettuce, is a fat, pale-green stalk loved across Sichuan and Chongqing, where it is slivered and flash-fried for weeknight dinners and spring banquets alike. It tastes somewhere between cucumber, courgette and mild celery, with a satisfying crunch that survives the wok. Look for it in Chinese groceries in spring; the leaves can be cooked like lettuce. The common mistake is peeling too thinly: the outer layer is fibrous, so peel until you reach the translucent jade-green core. Chef's tip: salt the slivers for five minutes and squeeze them lightly before cooking, so they stay snappy and season right through.

11 min

Chinese Vegetarian

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Si gua chao danLuffa and egg stir-fry

Si gua chao dan is a southern Chinese summer staple, cooked in Guangdong, Fujian and Guangxi homes on hot evenings when something light is wanted with rice. Angled luffa softens into silky, faintly sweet pieces and releases its own juice, which the scrambled egg soaks up. The common mistake is leaving the ridges on: peel the hard ridges of angled luffa (or all the skin of smooth luffa), or they stay tough and bitter. Chef's tip: scramble the egg first and lift it out while still a little soft, then return it at the end so it stays fluffy instead of rubbery.

14 min

Chinese Vegetarian

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Jiangyou chaofanSoy sauce fried rice

Jiangyou chaofan, soy sauce fried rice, is what Shanghai home cooks do with yesterday's rice on a busy weeknight: rice tossed in a hot wok with light and dark soy and a fistful of spring onion until every grain is evenly bronze and slightly smoky. Many families stir in a beaten egg; this vegan version leaves it out, but you can add one before the rice if you eat eggs. The common mistake is pouring soy straight onto the rice in the middle of the wok, which leaves dark patches and pale grains; drizzle it round the hot edge instead. Chef's tip: break up cold rice with damp hands before it goes in, so it fries grain by grain instead of steaming in clumps.

10 min

Chinese Rice & Grains

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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Shirini danmarkiCinnamon cardamom pastry swirls

In Tehran, nobody arrives empty-handed on a Nowruz visit: the custom is a cardboard box of shirini from the neighbourhood bakery, and soft, glazed shirini danmarki swirls are always tucked in among the cookies. This home version uses an enriched yeast dough rolled thin, spread with cinnamon-cardamom butter, rolled up and sliced into spirals that bake tender and flaky-edged. Serve them with tea in small glasses while the haft-sin table is laid. The common mistake is rushing the rise in a hot spot, which makes the buns dense and yeasty; a warm kitchen and patience give the lightest crumb. Chef's tip: chill the filled roll for 15 minutes before slicing, so the spirals stay round instead of squashing flat.

70 min

Persian Baking

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Leche de burraMilk, corn and sugar sweet

On 7 December, Nicaraguans celebrate La Purísima and La Gritería, when people go from house to house singing 'Who causes so much joy? Mary's Conception!' to altars set up for the Virgin, and the hosts hand out gifts: oranges, sugar cane, gofio and leche de burra. It is a firm, fudgy sweet of milk, sugar and a little cornmeal cooked until thick, then set in a tray, sometimes swirled with pink or brown, and cut into squares. Despite the name ('donkey's milk') it is made with cow's milk. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: stir constantly in the last 15 minutes, as milk sweets catch quickly.

70 minCentral American Desserts

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Tamales coloradosRed tamales

On Christmas Eve in Guatemala, families gather before midnight to eat tamales colorados, made in big batches the day before. Soft corn masa enriched with lard is filled with pork (or chicken) in a red recado sauce of tomato, dried chillies and toasted sesame and pumpkin seeds, topped with an olive, a strip of red pepper and a caper, then wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. They are eaten with bread and hot ponche. Chef's tip: beat the lard into the masa until a spoonful floats in water; that is how you know the tamales will be light.

240 minCentral American Meat

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Tamal de ollaChicken tamal stew

Tamal de olla is Panama's easy answer to Christmas tamales: instead of wrapping dozens of parcels, the corn masa and a saucy chicken filling with raisins, olives and capers are layered in a pot or baking dish and cooked together, then scooped onto plates for the Christmas Eve dinner. It is moist, savoury and slightly sweet, coloured gold with achiote. Chef's tip: cook the masa with the chicken broth on the hob until it pulls from the pan before baking, so the tamal sets but stays soft.

150 minCentral American Chicken

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Shir berenjRose water rice pudding

Shir berenj, 'milk rice', is one of the gentle sweets of the Iranian Nowruz season, made at home to share with visiting relatives and often given as nazri on special days. Short-grain rice is softened in water first, then cooked slowly in milk until the grains melt into a thick, creamy pudding scented with rose water. It is chilled and served plain, with the sweetness added at the table from a drizzle of grape molasses, date syrup or jam. The common mistake is adding all the milk at once over a high heat, which scorches the bottom and leaves the grains firm. Chef's tip: stir with a wooden spoon in a figure of eight, which reaches the corners where rice likes to stick.

70 min

Persian Desserts

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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Miel de chiverreSquash strand preserve

Chiverre is a large, pale squash with stringy flesh that Costa Rican families save for Semana Santa. The strands are cooked for hours with tapa de dulce (cane sugar), cinnamon and cloves until they turn into a golden, chewy, sweet preserve called miel de chiverre, eaten on its own or used to fill the Holy Week empanadas and tortas. Spaghetti squash, though milder, is the closest substitute. It is vegan. Chef's tip: soak the squash strands in cold water for a few hours and drain well, which removes the bitterness.

180 minCentral American Desserts

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

75 min

Austrian Baking

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Almíbar nicaragüenseFruit preserve in panela syrup

In Nicaragua, Semana Santa means almíbar: a big pot of mango, papaya, jocote (hog plum) and grosella (gooseberry) simmered for hours in a dark panela syrup with cinnamon, cloves and allspice. Families make it ahead and share it with neighbours, who return the bowl full of their own. It is served cool in small bowls, sometimes with a slice of cheese. Jocotes and grosellas are hard to find abroad; firm plums and cape gooseberries are good stand-ins. It is vegan and gluten free. Chef's tip: add the fruit in order of firmness so everything finishes tender but whole.

180 minCentral American Desserts

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Gallo en chichaRooster in sweet-sour corn sauce

Gallo en chicha is a festive dish of Granada and Masaya in Nicaragua, cooked for Christmas Eve and the purísima season. A rooster (today usually a large chicken) is stewed in chicha, a fermented corn drink, with raisins, prunes, olives, capers and spices until the sauce is thick, dark and sweet-sour. Traditional chicha can be slightly alcoholic; this recipe gives a quick unfermented version made from masa and pineapple, so it is alcohol-free. Serve with rice and plantains. Chef's tip: brown the chicken well first, as the dark sauce relies on that caramelised flavour.

150 minCentral American Chicken

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AllerheiligenstriezelBraided sweet loaf

In Bavaria and Austria, godparents give their godchildren an Allerheiligenstriezel on All Saints' Day, 1 November: a large braided loaf of sweet yeast dough, brushed with egg and scattered with almonds or pearl sugar. The braid is said to recall the old custom of cutting a plait of hair in mourning, and the size of the loaf once showed how generous the godparent was. It is lightly sweet, with lemon and vanilla, and is eaten sliced with butter or jam. Some recipes add rum-soaked raisins; these are soaked in warm water instead. Chef's tip: braid four strands for an impressive, high loaf.

85 min

Austrian Baking

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Paches de papaPotato tamales with chicken

Paches are the tamales of Quetzaltenango (Xela) in the Guatemalan highlands, made with mashed potato instead of corn and eaten on Christmas Eve and, by long custom, on Thursdays. The potato masa is coloured red with a recado of tomato, chillies and spices, filled with chicken, and wrapped in banana leaves to steam. They are soft and spoonable, served with bread and a squeeze of lime. Chef's tip: mash the potatoes while hot and mix in the recado straight away, so the masa stays smooth and doesn't turn gluey.

180 minCentral American Chicken

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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Sopa de rosquillasBroth with corn and cheese rings

In Honduras, Semana Santa is a time for meatless soups, and sopa de rosquillas is the most loved: a light tomato, onion and sweet pepper broth with milk, in which crisp, crumbly rosquillas (baked rings of cornmeal and hard cheese) are dropped at the last minute so they soften on the outside and stay crunchy within. Many families also add a few eggs. Bought rosquillas work; this recipe makes them. Hard 'queso seco' is usually made with rennet, so use a vegetarian hard cheese if needed. Chef's tip: add the rosquillas right before serving, as they dissolve if left to soak.

90 minCentral American Soups

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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Pescado envuelto en huevoEgg-battered fish in tomato sauce

In Guatemala, Cuaresma and Semana Santa mean the smell of pescado seco envuelto en huevo: pieces of dried salted fish (usually cod) soaked, dipped in whipped egg batter, fried until puffy and golden, then served in a light tomato sauce with rice. It fills the house during the processions of Holy Week, when carpets of sawdust and flowers line the streets of Antigua. Soaked salt cod is the easiest to find abroad. Chef's tip: whisk the whites very stiff and fold in the yolks gently, so the coating puffs into a soft cloud.

60 minCentral American Fish

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