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Sanzi (fried dough threads)

Sanzi are lacy coils of fried dough threads, made across Jiangsu and Shandong and by Hui and Uyghur cooks in Xinjiang. They belong to Hanshi, Cold Food Day, just before Qingming, when old custom forbade lighting the stove, so families fried them in advance to eat cold; the shatteringly crisp coils keep well for days and stand for the care taken to prepare for the remembrance. The dough is lightly salted and the strands snap like thin crackers, with a nutty note from sesame. Break them over congee or soy milk, or eat them on their own with tea. Chef's tip: rest the oiled ropes properly; relaxed dough stretches to thread-thin without snapping.

120 min

Chinese Snacks & Starters

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Coussin de Lyon (green almond-paste cushions with chocolate ganache)

Lyon's sweet emblem recalls the city's plague vow of 1643, when the aldermen carried a candle and gold coins on a silk cushion to the chapel of Fourvière. Chocolatiers turned that cushion into a confection in the 1960s and it is now the gift Lyonnais bring at Christmas and New Year, or for a host on a Sunday visit. A soft, almond-sweet shell of pale green paste, marked with a darker green stripe, hides a melting dark chocolate ganache scented with orange. Serve two or three with coffee after dinner. The classic ganache is laced with orange liqueur; here fresh orange juice and zest give the flavour without alcohol. Shop marzipan is not always egg-free, so this almond paste is bound with sugar syrup cooked to the soft-ball stage, which coats the ground almonds and sets them firm as it cools. Chef's tip: chill the ganache until it holds a line before shaping; the common mistake is using it soft, so it squeezes out of the seams.

85 min

French Desserts

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Berlingots de Carpentras (striped Provençal hard candies)

Carpentras, the market town below Mont Ventoux, has made berlingots since the nineteenth century, using the fruit syrups left over from its candied-fruit trade. The little four-sided pyramids are clear and glassy with fine white stripes, and they are sold year round at the Friday market and in paper cones for the Christmas sweet table. They crunch cleanly and dissolve slowly, here with a cool mint flavour; a fruit syrup can take its place. Offer them after a meal with coffee or herbal tea. Hard candy is naturally egg-free: the sugar, cooked to the hard-crack stage, sets glass-hard by itself, and glucose syrup keeps it clear instead of grainy. You will need heatproof gloves, oiled scissors and a warm place to keep the sugar soft while you shape it. Chef's tip: make these on a dry day; the common mistake is cooking sugar in a steamy kitchen, which leaves the berlingots sticky within hours.

85 min

French Desserts

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Boiled water caltrops (zhu lingjiao)Boiled water chestnuts in shell

Boiled water caltrops are a Mid-Autumn snack in Jiangnan and Guangdong, piled on the table beside mooncakes and pomelo while the family waits for the moon. The dark, two-horned nuts are harvested in autumn, and their name, ling, sounds like the word for clever, so children are told to eat them to grow bright; some families also say the shape looks like a bat, a symbol of good fortune. Inside the shell the white flesh is floury and sweet, much like a chestnut. Serve them warm in a big bowl with tea and the rest of the moon-watching snacks. Chef's tip: buy them fresh in autumn from Chinese grocers and always cook them through; never eat water caltrops raw, as they grow in ponds and can carry parasites.

40 min

Chinese Snacks & Starters

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Tian shao bai (sweet pork belly over sticky rice)

Tian shao bai is one of the 'three steamed bowls' of a Sichuan countryside banquet, and no Spring Festival feast there is complete without it. Thick slices of pork belly are cut into hinged pockets, filled with sweet red bean paste and packed into a bowl over glutinous rice with brown sugar, then steamed for hours and turned out as a glossy dome: sweetness for the year ahead and a richness that says the harvest was good. The pork fat melts into the rice, the skin turns soft and wobbly, and the bean paste and sugar make it rich and sticky like a pudding. Serve it towards the end of the meal in small portions with tea. Chef's tip: chill the boiled belly before slicing; cold pork cuts into clean, even slices that hold together.

195 min

Chinese Meat

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Pai gu ou tang (Hubei pork rib and lotus root soup)

Ask anyone from Wuhan what the Spring Festival tastes like and the answer is pai gu ou tang, a clay pot of pork ribs and lotus root that bubbles on the stove all New Year's Eve. Lotus root grows from the mud into something clean and pure, and its long threads that stretch when you bite a slice are said to keep the family linked even when apart. Hubei's floury lotus root, with nine holes, cooks down until it is soft and starchy and turns the broth a faint rosy pink; the ribs fall from the bone and the soup tastes sweet and mellow. Serve it first at the reunion dinner, in small bowls, with rice and the other dishes to follow. Chef's tip: look for thick, short, rusty-skinned lotus root sections; the slim, white, shiny kind stays crunchy however long you cook it.

180 min

Chinese Soups

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Sichuan la rou (smoked cured pork belly)

In the twelfth lunar month, balconies across Sichuan and Chongqing fill with strips of pork belly hanging to cure, and by the Spring Festival they have become la rou: smoky, salty and deeply savoury, the taste of a full larder and a prosperous year. The pork is rubbed with salt and toasted Sichuan pepper, left to cure, dried, then smoked; traditionally over cypress branches, here in a foil-lined wok with rice, sugar, tea and wood chips. Steamed and sliced thin, the fat turns translucent and the lean a deep ruby red. Serve it on its own with rice, or stir-fry the slices with garlic shoots or leeks. This home version uses pink curing salt for safety, cures and dries in the fridge, and must always be cooked before eating. Chef's tip: weigh the curing salt on scales accurate to 0.1 g; too much is harmful, too little is unsafe.

180 min

Chinese Meat

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Turrón de maníPeanut nougat

On an Argentine Christmas Eve, after midnight toasts, the 'mesa dulce' appears with pan dulce, garrapiñadas and turrón de maní: a chewy white nougat of honey, sugar, whipped egg white and roasted peanuts, often set between two sheets of rice paper. Families make it in the days before Nochebuena. The egg white is cooked by the hot syrup. It is gluten free if you use gluten-free wafer paper or none. Chef's tip: work fast once the syrup is in, as the nougat stiffens as it cools and gets hard to spread.

60 min

Argentinian Desserts

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Pâte de fruits (Auvergne apricot fruit jellies)

Clermont-Ferrand, the capital of the Auvergne, built a name for pâtes de fruits in the nineteenth century using apricots from the Limagne plain, and the jewel-bright squares remain a favourite in Christmas boxes and with coffee at the end of a meal. Good pâte de fruits tastes more of fruit than of sugar: dense, tender and clean-cutting, with a sparkle of sugar crust and a sharp edge of acid. Serve them on a plate of petits fours, or pack them as a gift. They are naturally egg-free: pectin, the fruit's own setting agent, does all the work once the purée is boiled with sugar to 106°C and the acid is added. Use yellow pectin for pâte de fruits if you can find it; it sets slowly enough to pour. Chef's tip: stir in the citric acid only off the heat, right before pouring; the common mistake is adding it early, so the jelly sets in the pan.

90 min

French Desserts

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Zhenzhu wanzi (pearl meatballs)

Pearl meatballs come from Mianyang in Hubei, where they are a fixture of the Spring Festival banquet: round shapes stand for a family gathered whole, and the gleaming grains of rice for pearls and wealth. Steaming turns the glutinous rice coating translucent and slightly chewy, while the pork inside stays tender and juicy, with crunch from water chestnuts. They are mild and soft, so children love them, and they look beautiful on a steamer of mixed dim sum or as one of the many dishes at the reunion dinner. Tamari keeps them gluten free; ordinary light soy sauce works if that does not matter to you. Chef's tip: beat the pork in one direction until sticky before shaping; it keeps the meatballs bouncy and stops the rice from falling off.

55 min

Chinese Meat

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La wei he zheng (Hunan steamed cured meats)

La wei he zheng, 'cured flavours steamed together', is a showpiece of Hunan's Spring Festival table: a bowl of smoky cured pork belly, cured chicken and dried fish, layered and steamed until their juices mingle. Cured meats are made in the coldest month to last through the holiday, so a heaped bowl promises a family that will never go short. The fat turns melting and translucent, the fish smoky and firm, and fermented black beans and chilli give a salty, fiery lift. The easy route is shop-bought Chinese cured pork belly and sausage from an Asian grocer; many brands contain a little rice wine, so check the label if you avoid alcohol. Serve with plenty of plain rice and a stir-fried green. Chef's tip: steam everything whole first, then slice; cured meat cut cold and hard shreds instead of slicing neatly.

65 min

Chinese Meat

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Orangettes (candied orange peel in dark chocolate)

All over France, from Paris chocolatiers to village pâtisseries, orangettes arrive in the shop windows as the days shorten and are a fixture of the Christmas and New Year sweet table. Long strips of orange peel are candied until tender and translucent, then dipped in dark chocolate: chewy and bittersweet inside, with a clean snap of chocolate and a long citrus finish. Serve them with an espresso after dinner, tie them up in a box as a gift, or offer them with a cheese course. They are naturally egg-free: the sugar syrup preserves the peel and stops it going tough, and the tempered chocolate sets into a firm, glossy shell with no other help. For a vegan batch, use a dark chocolate made without milk. Chef's tip: dry the candied peel well before dipping; the common mistake is dipping wet peel, which makes the chocolate seize and turn dull.

180 min

French Desserts

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Tang gua (malt sugar candy)

On Xiaonian, the 'little New Year' a week before the Spring Festival, families across northern China offer tang gua to the Kitchen God before he flies up to report on the household: the sticky sweets are meant to glue his mouth shut, or at least sweeten his words. The name means 'sugar melons', after their round, ribbed shape. Pulling the hot maltose over and over turns it from amber glass to a pale, airy candy that shatters and then turns chewy, with a toasty malt flavour and plenty of sesame. Serve them with tea on Xiaonian and keep the rest in a tin for New Year guests. Chef's tip: wear clean rubber or silicone gloves and work on an oiled tray; hot sugar sticks to skin and burns.

180 min

Chinese Desserts

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Nian dou bao (sticky bean buns)

Before the Spring Festival, families in Dongbei make nian dou bao by the hundred, steam them and freeze them outside in the snow so there is a stack ready for every visit of the holiday. The name contains 'nian', sticky, which sounds like the word for year, so they are eaten for a year that holds together and rises higher. The dough, traditionally from glutinous millet that has been lightly fermented, is soft, chewy and gently tangy, wrapped round a smooth sweet red bean filling. This version uses glutinous rice flour and fine cornmeal for the golden colour, with a little yeast for that faint sourness. Serve them warm with tea or plain congee. Chef's tip: wet your hands before shaping; the dough clings to dry hands but behaves perfectly once they are damp.

180 min

Chinese Breads & Parathas

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Jiaodong hua bobo (festive flower buns)

On the Jiaodong peninsula in Shandong, the days before the Spring Festival are spent shaping hua bobo: large steamed wheat buns twisted into fish, flowers and lucky knots and dotted with red jujubes. A fish bun stands for surplus in the year ahead, the dates for sweetness and a prosperous red, and a tall bun stacked high for a family that keeps rising. The crumb is dense, springy and faintly sweet, a world away from fluffy bao, because the dough is worked stiff and kneaded long. Set them on the reunion table, give them to neighbours, then slice and re-steam the rest with soups and braises through the holiday. Chef's tip: keep the dough firm, more like modelling clay than bread dough, or the shapes slump in the steamer.

240 min

Chinese Breads & Parathas

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Hong tang ciba (brown sugar glutinous rice cakes)

Pounded glutinous rice cakes are a Spring Festival essential in Sichuan and Chongqing, where 'ci' sounds like a wish for the family to stay close, as stuck together as the rice itself. Fried and drowned in brown sugar syrup, they turn into hong tang ciba, a dessert that closes many reunion dinners and hotpot nights. Outside they are puffed and crackly, inside soft and stretchy, and the dark syrup and nutty soybean flour make every bite taste like toffee. This home version steams a glutinous rice flour dough instead of pounding whole grains, which gives the same chew in far less time. Serve straight from the pan while still crisp. Chef's tip: let the steamed slab cool and firm up completely before cutting; warm dough smears and bursts in the oil.

50 min

Chinese Desserts

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Ba bao ya (eight-treasure duck)

Ba bao ya, eight-treasure duck, is the grand centrepiece of a Shanghai or Suzhou Spring Festival dinner: eight being the luckiest number, the duck is filled with eight good things for eight kinds of fortune. A whole duck is boned so the skin stays in one piece, then packed with glutinous rice, dry-cured ham, chestnuts, shiitake, lotus seeds, bamboo shoots and dried shrimp, and braised in soy and rock sugar until deep mahogany. Cut into thick slices, it shows a mosaic of stuffing held by tender, sticky-glazed meat. The stuffing uses Chinese dry-cured ham and the braise uses Shaoxing wine; for an alcohol-free version use unsalted stock with a few drops of rice vinegar. Serve carved at the table with steamed greens. Chef's tip: ask your butcher to bone the duck and remove the head, leaving the skin intact; it saves an hour and any tears.

240 min

Chinese Meat

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Morue en raïtoSalt cod in tomato sauce

In Provence the gros souper on Christmas Eve is a lean but festive meal eaten before midnight Mass, with seven meatless dishes for the seven sorrows of Mary, and salt cod en raïto is often the centrepiece. Pieces of soaked cod are fried, then simmered in raïto, a dark sauce of tomato, onion, garlic, black olives and capers that is traditionally cooked with red wine. Here the wine is optional: use vegetable stock with a spoon of red wine vinegar for an alcohol-free sauce. Serve with boiled potatoes or crusty bread. Chef's tip: soak the salt cod in the fridge for 36 hours, changing the water often, and taste a flake before cooking; it should be pleasantly seasoned, not salty.

90 min

French Fish

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Shanzha gao (hawthorn fruit cake)

When the hawthorn trees of Hebei and Shandong drop their red berries in late autumn, cooks across northern China, and especially in Beijing, boil them down into shanzha gao, a firm fruit cake cut into ruby slices. It is a winter sweet, eaten after rich meals because people say it helps digestion, and it sits beside candied hawthorn skewers at the New Year fairs. The texture is like a firm fruit jelly that cuts cleanly, and the flavour is bright and sour-sweet, like a cross between crab apple and cranberry. Serve thin slices with jasmine tea, or cubes on a fruit plate. It is naturally egg-free and needs no setting agent at all: hawthorn is so rich in pectin that the cooked purée sets firm as it cools. Chef's tip: the common mistake is stopping too soon, so keep stirring until a spoon drawn across the pan leaves a clear trail that does not close up.

130 min

Chinese Desserts

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Quinotos en almíbar (Argentine kumquats in syrup)

In Buenos Aires and the river provinces of the Litoral, kumquat trees ripen in the middle of winter, between June and August, and the fruit goes straight into jars of syrup. Grandmothers' pantries held quinotos for the whole year, brought out for birthdays and long Sunday lunches. Each little fruit turns glossy orange and translucent, with a soft, bittersweet skin and a sharp, juicy centre. Spoon them over vanilla ice cream, serve them with a slice of fresh cheese in the style of postre vigilante, or eat them straight from the jar. Many bar menus offer them steeped in spirits; this version keeps only the syrup. Naturally egg-free, the quinotos rely on sugar syrup to preserve them, while pectin from the peel gives the syrup a light, jammy body. Chef's tip: blanch the fruit three times from cold water; the common mistake is skipping this, which leaves the skins tough and bitter.

120 min

Argentinian Desserts

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Cotignac d'Orléans (clear quince jelly)

Orléans has made cotignac since the Middle Ages and offered it to visiting kings, and the town still sells it in small round wooden boxes, to be eaten by scraping the jelly out with the edge of the lid. It is a winter sweet, made when the autumn quinces come in and given at Christmas and New Year. The jelly is clear and ruby-red, firm enough to cut but tender on the tongue, with a scented, slightly tart quince flavour. Serve it after dinner with coffee, or with a mild cheese. Nothing but fruit and sugar sets it, so it is naturally egg-free: quinces are among the richest fruits in pectin, and boiling their juice with sugar to the setting point is all it takes. Small ramekins or silicone moulds lined with baking paper stand in for the wooden boxes. Chef's tip: let the cooked quince drip through the cloth without pressing; the common mistake is squeezing it, which clouds the jelly.

290 min

French Desserts

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Yan du xian (Shanghai fresh and cured pork soup)

Yan du xian is the soup that tells Shanghai and the Jiangnan region that the Spring Festival has arrived: 'yan' for salted pork, 'du' for the gentle bubbling of a pot left to simmer, and 'xian' for fresh pork and new bamboo shoots. The cured and fresh meat together stand for a year that keeps the good things of the past and welcomes the new. Long, slow cooking turns the broth milky, deeply porky and savoury, with sweet, crunchy bamboo and soft tofu knots that soak up the flavour. Set it in the middle of the reunion table and eat it between the richer dishes with plain rice. Chef's tip: keep the pot at a lazy simmer, never a rolling boil, or the salted pork turns hard and stringy.

125 min

Chinese Soups

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Qiaoguo (Qixi fried pastries)Sesame sugar fried dough knots

Qiaoguo, 'skill fruits', are fried for Qixi on the seventh night of the seventh lunar month in Zhejiang and Jiangsu. The festival celebrates the Weaver Girl and the Cowherd, the star-crossed lovers who meet once a year, and girls once set out these pastries and asked the Weaver Girl to make them clever with their hands; the neat twists and cut-out shapes show off that skill. They are crunchy, lightly sweet and toasty with sesame, like a delicate biscuit. Serve a plate under the evening sky with tea, melon and fruit. Chef's tip: roll the dough thin, about 2 mm; thicker pieces stay hard in the middle instead of crisp.

60 min

Chinese Baking

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Huizhou yi pin guo (layered New Year one-pot)Layered pork and tofu pot

In the Huizhou hill villages of southern Anhui, the Spring Festival centrepiece is yi pin guo, 'first-rank pot', named after the highest rank of imperial official and served as a wish for success in the coming year. Everything goes into one wide pot in layers: dried bamboo shoots at the bottom, then pork belly, fried tofu, egg dumplings filled with pork, and greens on top, so the juices of each layer drip down and season the one below. The result is rich and savoury, the bamboo soaked with pork fat, the tofu spongy with broth. Bring the pot to the table and let everyone dig down through the layers, with rice on the side. Chef's tip: soak the dried bamboo shoots overnight and boil them well; underprepared dried shoots stay leathery and sour.

180 min

Chinese Meat

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