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Moroccan bachkoutouOrange and sesame dunking biscuits

Moroccan grandmothers bake bachkoutou by the trayful and keep them in big tins for the afternoon glass of sweet mint tea, and neighbourhood ovens in Fes and Casablanca bake them for families who bring their dough. These are dry, crunchy little biscuits, not rich at all, made with eggs, sugar and oil rather than butter, with orange zest and a coating of toasted sesame; they are meant to be dunked until they soften slightly. Shapes vary from town to town: fingers, rings and rope twists are all common, and some cooks add aniseed. Too much flour is the easy mistake: the dough should stay soft and slightly sticky, or the biscuits bake heavy and hard rather than crisp and light. Chef's tip: once they are cold, put them back in a warm, switched-off oven for 20 minutes; that extra drying is what makes them keep their snap for weeks.

38 min

Moroccan Baking

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PyttipannaPotato and meat hash

Pyttipanna, 'small pieces in a pan', is Sweden's great leftover dish: diced potatoes, onion and whatever cooked meat is left from Sunday (roast beef, ham or sausage, often pork) fried together until crisp, then served with a fried egg on top and pickled beetroot on the side. It is a weekday lunch in every Swedish home and canteen, and a well-known hangover breakfast. The mistake that leaves it pale and steamed is putting everything in the pan at once; the potatoes need a head start to brown before the meat goes in. Reheat the leftover meat until it is steaming hot right through (74 °C). Chef's tip: cut potatoes, onion and meat into the same 1 cm dice, so every forkful has a bit of each.

30 minScandinavian Meat

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SaleuriCheese pastry sticks

Set out on a platter at Romanian name-day parties, christenings and New Year's Eve, saleuri are the salty sticks people nibble with a glass of something before the sarmale arrive. The pastry is short and flaky from cold butter and sour cream, with grated cheese worked through it and more cheese, caraway and sesame pressed on top. Older village recipes were often made with lard; this version uses butter. They are best the day they are baked but keep crisp in a tin for three or four days, and they go well with a bowl of olives or a cold beer. The top is brushed with beaten egg; milk works instead if you want them egg-free on the outside. Chef's tip: cut the strips with a pizza wheel and leave them lying where they are on the tray, rather than lifting each one, so they stay straight; warm, overworked dough is the usual mistake, and it bakes up tough instead of flaky.

45 min

Romanian Baking

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KantarelltoastChanterelle toast

Kantarelltoast is the dish Swedes wait all year for: in August and September, after a day picking golden chanterelles in the forests from Småland to Norrland, they fry them in butter with shallot, add a splash of cream and pile them on toast for a quick supper or starter. The mushrooms are peppery and almost apricot-scented, and the cream turns them silky. If you forage, only eat mushrooms you are certain of; shop-bought chanterelles are safest. The most common mistake is washing chanterelles under the tap, which makes them soggy; brush them clean and dry-fry them first to drive off their water. Chef's tip: a little grated Västerbotten-style hard cheese on top is classic, but check it is made with vegetarian rennet.

15 minScandinavian Snacks & Starters

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Tallarines rojosSpaghetti in red sauce with chicken

Tallarines rojos is the Sunday-lunch and weeknight pasta of homes all over Peru, from Lima to Arequipa: spaghetti in a sweet, deep-red sauce of blended tomato, onion and garlic with a little ají panca and oregano, often with pieces of chicken cooked right in it. Children love it, and it is served with a sprinkle of grated cheese and sometimes a spoon of huancaína on the side. The usual mistake is cooking the sauce too briefly, so it tastes of raw onion; let the blended tomato fry until it darkens and the oil shows at the edges. Chef's tip: a bay leaf and a spoon of ají panca paste give the sauce its Peruvian character; paprika will do if you can't find the paste.

30 min

Peruvian Pasta & Noodles

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VaniljekranseVanilla almond butter rings

No Danish Christmas tin is complete without vaniljekranse, the ridged rings of buttery vanilla dough with finely ground almonds that snap and then melt. Many homes in Denmark make dozens in December, traditionally pressing the dough through a mincer fitted with a star plate to make long ribbons, then curling them into wreaths; a piping bag with a large star nozzle does the same job. They are eaten with coffee, gløgg or a glass of cold milk, and are a favourite for children to help shape. Some recipes leave out the egg, and a spoonful of milk works just as well here. Chef's tip: chill the piped rings on the tray for 15 minutes before baking so the ridges stay sharp; dough that is too warm is the trap, because the rings spread and lose their pattern.

58 minScandinavian Baking

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Stuvade makaronerCreamy macaroni

Stuvade makaroner is a Swedish childhood classic, cooked on weekday evenings all over the country: small macaroni simmered in milk with butter and a grating of nutmeg until thick and creamy, served beside meatballs, sausages or, for a vegetarian plate, fried halloumi or eggs and a spoonful of lingonberries. It is mild, comforting and made in one pan. The most common mistake is cooking on too high a heat, so the milk catches and burns on the bottom; keep it at a gentle simmer and stir often. Chef's tip: boil the macaroni in water for 3 minutes first, then finish in the milk, so it cooks evenly without the sauce turning gluey.

20 minScandinavian Sides

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GubbröraEgg and anchovy spread

Gubbröra, 'old man's mix', is a Swedish classic for the smörgåsbord and the Friday-night snack plate: chopped hard-boiled eggs folded with Swedish anchovies, red onion, dill and chives in sour cream, piled onto dark rye bread or crispbread. It is found on Midsummer and Christmas tables but is quick enough for a light supper any evening. Swedish 'ansjovis' are sprats cured in a sweet spiced brine, milder than Mediterranean salted anchovies; if you use those, halve the amount. The usual mistake is mixing the eggs while still warm, which turns the whole thing into a sloppy paste, so cool them in iced water first. Chef's tip: chop eggs and anchovies by hand into rough 5 mm pieces for a spread with texture.

20 minScandinavian Snacks & Starters

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Pejerrey arrebozadoBattered fish fillets with onion salsa

Pejerrey arrebozado is a Lima classic from the cevicherías and home kitchens of the coast, eaten at lunch on a plate with white rice, a heap of sharp salsa criolla and sometimes boiled potato. The pejerrey, a small silverside, is opened into butterflied fillets, dipped in a light egg-and-flour batter and fried golden. Outside Peru, use small fillets of whiting, sole, haddock or tilapia. The batter here uses sparkling water, not beer, so it is alcohol free. The common mistake is frying in oil that isn't hot enough: the batter drinks the oil and turns greasy, so test with a drop of batter first. Chef's tip: make the salsa criolla first and let the onion sit in lime for ten minutes; it softens its bite and turns a pretty pink.

25 min

Peruvian Fish

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ÆggekageBacon and tomato pan omelette

Æggekage, 'egg cake', is a thick Danish pan omelette set slowly under a lid and served straight from the pan, topped with crisp strips of bacon (pork), slices of tomato and a shower of chives. It is a long-loved lunch and quick evening meal from Copenhagen to Jutland, eaten with dark rye bread and a dab of strong mustard. The common mistake is cooking it over high heat, which makes the base leathery and brown before the top sets; keep the heat low and be patient. Chef's tip: a spoonful of flour whisked into the milk gives the æggekage its traditional soft, almost custardy body that holds when sliced.

20 minScandinavian Breakfast & Brunch

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Korv StroganoffSausage in tomato cream sauce

Korv Stroganoff is Swedish family food from the 1970s that children still ask for: strips of falukorv, a mild, smooth pork-and-beef sausage, browned with onion and simmered in a pink sauce of tomato purée, mustard and cream. It is a 25-minute weeknight dinner across Sweden, served over boiled rice with a grated carrot or cucumber salad. Falukorv is already cooked, so it only needs heating until piping hot; the common mistake is boiling the cream sauce hard, which can split it and toughen the sausage. Check the sausage label if you need it gluten free; Polish kielbasa or a mild smoked sausage works if you can't find falukorv. Chef's tip: brown the sausage strips properly before adding liquid, because that caramelised edge is where the flavour comes from.

25 minScandinavian Meat

by KrazyBadal 0 views

Finska pinnarAlmond butter fingers

Despite the name, 'Finnish sticks' are a Swedish fika favourite, one of the classic 'seven kinds of cookies' that a proper Swedish host once laid out for coffee guests. The dough is rich and short, flavoured with ground almonds; it is rolled into ropes, brushed with beaten egg and coated in crunchy pearl sugar and chopped almonds, then cut into fingers. They are quick, need no cutters, and look neat on a plate with cinnamon buns and a pot of coffee. The egg is only the glue for the topping; brushing with milk works too if you want them egg-free. Chef's tip: cut the ropes into fingers before baking, with one decisive press of a sharp knife; sawing tears the soft dough and knocks off the sugar.

45 minScandinavian Baking

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Chicharrón de pescadoCrisp fried fish chunks

Up and down the Peruvian coast, from Chorrillos in Lima to the beaches of Piura, chicharrón de pescado is the crunchy plate ordered alongside ceviche at a long seafood lunch: bite-size chunks of firm white fish marinated briefly in garlic and lime, dusted in flour and fried, then served with fried cassava, salsa criolla and tartar or rocoto sauce. Using frozen peeled cassava keeps it to half an hour. The common mistake is leaving the fish in the lime too long: after about ten minutes the acid starts to 'cook' the outside and the coating slips off. Chef's tip: toss the floured pieces in a sieve to shake off every bit of loose flour; a thin coat fries crisp, a thick one turns pasty.

30 min

Peruvian Fish

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LimpaSweet orange and fennel rye loaf

Sweet, fragrant and a little dark, limpa is the soft rye loaf that Swedes slice thinly for breakfast and stack high on the Christmas julbord. Dark syrup gives it a gentle sweetness and a deep brown crumb, while orange zest, fennel and anise make the whole kitchen smell festive. The Christmas version, vörtlimpa, is made with wort or dark beer; this everyday loaf uses milk instead, so there is no alcohol. Eat it with butter and a sharp aged cheese, with marmalade, or with pickled beetroot and egg on the smörgåsbord. Rye dough is sticky by nature, and working in extra flour until it feels like wheat dough is the classic mistake that bakes a heavy brick; oil your hands instead. Chef's tip: brush the loaves with syrup and water the moment they come out of the oven, which gives them their soft, glossy, slightly sticky crust.

180 minScandinavian Breads & Parathas

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RieskaPotato and barley flatbread

Ten minutes in a very hot oven is all rieska needs, which is why Finnish cooks in Lapland and Ostrobothnia have long baked it on the spot whenever there were cold boiled potatoes in the larder. This version, perunarieska, is unleavened: mashed potato bound with barley flour, rolled thin and baked until speckled brown. It is soft and slightly chewy, with an earthy barley flavour, and is best eaten straight from the oven with plenty of butter melting into it, perhaps with cheese and cucumber or a bowl of soup. Barley gives it the traditional taste but means it is not gluten free. Using warm potatoes is the common mistake; they soak up far more flour and the rieska turns tough. Chef's tip: prick the rounds all over with a fork before baking so they stay flat, then stack them under a cloth as they come out to keep them soft.

26 minScandinavian Breads & Parathas

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Hot dogs in lompe (pølse i lompe)

On 17 May, Norway's Constitution Day, children parade with flags and then queue for pølse i lompe: a hot sausage wrapped in a soft, thin potato flatbread instead of a bun, with ketchup, mustard and sometimes crisp onions. The same snack turns up at every football tournament and birthday. Home-made lompe take a little time but freeze well; this recipe makes 8. It contains gluten and milk. Chef's tip: mash the potatoes while hot and let the dough cool completely before kneading in the flour, or it turns gluey.

60 minScandinavian Fast Food

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Pan chutaAniseed round bread

The small town of Oropesa, half an hour from Cusco, calls itself Peru's bread capital, and its wood-fired bakeries are famous for chuta: big, flat, round loaves as wide as a dinner plate, glossy on top, with a faint sweetness and the warmth of aniseed. Travellers on the road to Puno and Bolivia stop to buy them by the bagful, and families bring them home for All Saints' Day and for sharing with hot coca tea or coffee, fresh cheese and butter. The bakeries traditionally use lard; this version uses vegetable shortening and butter, so it is vegetarian. The make-or-break moment is the proof: chuta is large and flat, and if it goes in under-risen it bakes dense and splits at the rim. Chef's tip: toast the aniseed for a minute in a dry pan and crush it lightly before adding, for a rounder, sweeter perfume.

240 min

Peruvian Breads & Parathas

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Fiskeboller i hvit saus (fish balls in white sauce)

Fiskeboller i hvit saus, pale, pillowy fish balls in a white sauce with carrots and boiled potatoes, is the gentle midweek dinner of Norwegian childhood. Making the fish balls at home means you control the salt and can be sure every bone is out: they are just white fish, milk, potato starch and a little nutmeg, poached until soft and springy. It contains fish, milk and gluten (wheat flour in the sauce). Chef's tip: keep the fish and milk cold while blending, and the fish balls come out light rather than rubbery.

45 minScandinavian Fish

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Kagemand (Danish birthday cake man)

In Denmark, no child's birthday is complete without a kagemand or kagekone: a big cake shaped like a boy or girl, made from soft, cardamom-scented yeast pastry filled with vanilla custard and remonce, then iced and decorated with sweets and Danish flags. The birthday child traditionally cuts the head off first while everyone shrieks. It contains milk, egg and gluten. Chef's tip: draw the figure on baking paper first and shape the dough on top, so arms and legs stay in proportion.

175 minScandinavian Baking

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Välling (Swedish oat and milk drink)

Välling, a thin gruel of cereal and milk, has been the Swedish child's bedtime drink for generations, and many families still make their own for toddlers once they move on to cow's milk at around a year old. It is smooth, warm and lightly oaty, with no added sugar or honey. It contains milk and gluten (oats are often processed with wheat; use certified gluten-free oats if needed); there is no egg, nuts, soya, sesame or fish. Chef's tip: blend the oats to a fine flour first, so the drink is silky and flows easily from a beaker.

10 minScandinavian Drinks

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Bløtkake (Norwegian cream cake)

Bløtkake, 'soft cake', is what Norwegian families bake for children's birthdays, confirmations and above all 17 May, Constitution Day, when it is decorated with strawberries and blueberries. A light sponge is split into three, moistened with juice and layered with whipped cream and berries until it is soft enough to cut with a spoon. It contains egg, milk and gluten. For small children, quarter blueberries and halve strawberries. Chef's tip: assemble it at least four hours ahead; the cake needs time to soak and soften.

70 minScandinavian Baking

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Fiskegrateng (Norwegian fish and macaroni gratin)

Fiskegrateng, a baked gratin of flaked white fish and macaroni in a thick nutmeg-scented white sauce, is classic Norwegian family food and a favourite way to get children to eat fish, served with grated raw carrot on the side. It is soft, creamy and mild, with a crisp crumb on top, and this version uses no added salt for toddlers from a year old. It contains fish, milk, egg and gluten (pasta, flour and breadcrumbs). Chef's tip: let the white sauce cool a little before whisking in the egg yolks, so they thicken it smoothly instead of scrambling.

60 minScandinavian Fish

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Chocolate slices on rye (pålægschokolade)

Pålægschokolade, wafer-thin slices of chocolate made for laying on bread, is a Danish lunchbox treat, usually saved for Fridays or birthdays: buttered dark rye, a slab of chocolate on top, then cut into fingers. The sour, dense rye and the sweet chocolate are a famous match. Shop slices are thin squares; here you make your own from a bar, which lets you pick dark chocolate with less sugar. It contains gluten (rye and wheat), milk and soya (lecithin in most chocolate). Chef's tip: spread the chocolate as thin as a coin; thick pieces crack and fall off.

15 minScandinavian Breads & Parathas

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MokkapalatChocolate coffee squares

Mokkapalat ('mocha pieces') are what Finnish parents bake on the big oven tray for a child's birthday, a school bake sale or a summer cottage weekend: soft chocolate sponge squares with a thin, glossy coffee-cocoa icing and a shower of coloured sprinkles. The coffee is gentle and only deepens the chocolate, so children love them, and you can use decaf. They are moist enough to keep three days in a tin and freeze well. Icing the cake while it is hot is the classic mistake; it soaks in and goes dull, so wait until it is just warm. Chef's tip: add the icing liquid a spoonful at a time; it should spread like thick paint and set with a shine.

45 minScandinavian Baking

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