Arroz con conejo

Step 1: Season the 2 ⅝ lb rabbit with half the 1 tsp salt. Heat the ½ cup olive oil in a 36–40 cm paella pan over a medium heat and brown the rabbit slowly for 15 minutes, turning, until deep golden on all sides.

Step 2: Push the rabbit to the edges, add the 1 red pepper to the middle and fry for 5 minutes until soft, then lift the pepper strips out and keep them.

Step 3: Scrape the flesh from the soaked 2 dried ñora peppers and add it to the pan with the 4 cloves garlic. Cook for 1 minute, add the 2 ripe tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes until thick and dark, then stir in the 1 tsp sweet paprika for a few seconds.

Step 4: Pour in the 5 ¾ cups hot water, add the 1 pinch saffron threads, the rest of the 1 tsp salt and the 5 ½ oz cooked snails if using. Simmer for 20 minutes so the rabbit becomes tender and the broth tastes rich. Taste: it should be slightly too salty, as the rice will absorb it.

Step 5: Scatter the 12 ½ oz Calasparra or bomba rice evenly across the pan, shake it level and lay the pepper strips on top. Cook over a high heat for 8 minutes, then a medium-low heat for 9–10 minutes. A common mistake is stirring once the rice is in: it releases starch and turns sticky instead of loose.

Step 6: When the rice is tender and the liquid has gone, listen for a soft crackle from the base, then turn off the heat. The rabbit should be cooked through, with juices running clear and the thickest piece at 160°F.

Step 7: Lay the 2 sprigs fresh rosemary on top, cover with a clean cloth and rest for 5 minutes so the rice picks up its scent. Serve from the pan.