Bacalhau à Brás

Step 1: Put 14 oz salt cod (bacalhau) skin side up in a large bowl of cold water, cover and keep it in the fridge for 24–48 hours, pouring off the water and adding fresh 3–4 times a day (thicker loins need the full 48 hours). Taste a flake from the thickest part: it should be pleasantly seasoned, not harsh. Never soak salt cod on the counter.

Step 2: Put the soaked cod in a pan, cover with fresh water and bring just to a simmer; cook for 5 minutes until the flesh is opaque and flakes easily. Drain, and when cool enough remove all skin and bones and pull into fine shreds.

Step 3: Cut 1 ⅓ lb potatoes into very thin matchsticks (straw potatoes), rinse in cold water and dry thoroughly on a towel.

Step 4: Heat 3 ¼ cups vegetable oil for frying in a deep pan to 350°F. Fry the potatoes in batches for 3–4 minutes until pale gold and crisp, and drain on kitchen paper. Never leave the hot oil unattended.

Step 5: In a wide frying pan warm 4 tbsp olive oil over a medium-low heat with 2 onions, 3 cloves garlic and 1 bay leaf. Cook gently for 12 minutes, stirring, until the onion is soft and golden but not brown.

Step 6: Add the shredded cod and stir for 3 minutes so it soaks up the oil. Fold in the straw potatoes. Beat 6 eggs with ½ tsp black pepper and half the 0.5 handful flat-leaf parsley.

Step 7: Pour in the eggs, stir fast for about 30 seconds over a low heat, then take the pan off the heat and keep folding until the eggs are just set and creamy. A common mistake is cooking it until dry; it should look glossy and moist. Remove the bay leaf.

Step 8: Taste for salt (the cod is often salty enough), pile onto plates and top with 12 black olives and the rest of the 0.5 handful flat-leaf parsley. Serve at once.