Cha traop dot

Step 1: Prick each of 4 long Asian aubergines a few times with a fork. Set them directly on a gas flame over a medium-high heat, on a hot barbecue, or under a very hot grill.

Step 2: Cook for 12–15 minutes, turning with tongs every few minutes, until the skins are blackened and cracked all over and the aubergines have slumped and feel completely soft when squeezed.

Step 3: Put them in a bowl, cover with a plate and leave for 5 minutes to steam, which loosens the skin.

Step 4: Meanwhile, make the dressing: stir 1 tbsp sugar into 2 tbsp warm water until dissolved, then add 1 tbsp fish sauce, 1 ½ tbsp lime juice and 1 fresh red chilli.

Step 5: Heat 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a small pan over a medium heat until hot. Pour it over 4 spring onions and 1 pinch salt in a heatproof bowl; it should sizzle and the onions turn bright green.

Step 6: Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Fry 4 garlic cloves for 30 seconds, until fragrant and just golden.

Step 7: Add 9 oz minced pork and break it up with a spatula. Fry for 6–7 minutes, until no pink remains, it reaches 160°F, and the pork starts to brown in places.

Step 8: Stir in 1 ½ tbsp fish sauce, 1 tsp sugar and ½ tsp ground black pepper and cook for 1 minute more, until the liquid evaporates and the pork looks glossy.

Step 9: Peel the aubergines, leaving the stalks on, and lay them on a platter. Use a fork to open them out and flatten the flesh slightly, leaving a few flecks of char for smokiness.

Step 10: Spoon the pork over the aubergines, drizzle with the spring onion oil and then the dressing. Top with 1 handful fresh coriander and 2 tbsp crispy fried garlic or shallots if using, and serve warm with rice. For a vegetarian version, fry crumbled firm tofu with soy sauce instead of the pork and use a soy-lime dressing.