Changnian cai (long-year greens soup)

Step 1: Wash 1 ¾ lb Chinese mustard greens (gai choy) well, opening the leaves to rinse out any grit, but keep the head in one piece.

Step 2: Bring a large pot of water to the boil and blanch the whole head for 2 minutes, until the leaves turn bright green. Drain and rinse under cold water.

Step 3: Lift the soaked 4 dried shiitake mushrooms from their water and squeeze them; pour the soaking water into a clean pot, leaving any grit behind. Add 6 ¼ cups vegetable stock, ⅔ oz fresh ginger and the mushrooms.

Step 4: Bring to the boil, then simmer for 10 minutes, until the broth smells of mushroom and ginger.

Step 5: Lower in the whole head of greens, cover and simmer over a low heat for 20–25 minutes, until the thick stems are translucent and a knife slides into them easily. Common mistake: cutting the greens to fit the pot; the leaves should stay whole and long for the meaning, so use a wide pot or fold the head gently.

Step 6: Season with 1 tsp salt and ¼ tsp ground white pepper and taste. Lift the greens into a deep bowl, pour the broth and mushrooms over and add ½ tsp toasted sesame oil, if using.

Step 7: Serve the greens whole and let everyone pull off a leaf and eat it from end to end. For the traditional version, swap the vegetable stock for chicken stock, or simmer the greens with a few pieces of chicken until cooked through to 165°F.