Crossing-the-bridge noodles with vegetable broth

Step 1: Put 6 dried shiitake mushrooms, 2 corn cobs, 7 oz soybean sprouts or beansprouts, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 4 slices fresh ginger and 10 ½ cups water in a large pan. Bring to a boil and simmer, partly covered, for 40 minutes until golden and sweet-smelling. Strain, season with 2 tsp salt and ¼ tsp ground white pepper, and keep at a rolling boil.

Step 2: Soak or cook 10 ½ oz round rice noodles (mixian) according to the packet until just soft, rinse and divide between four small bowls. Arrange 3 ½ oz fresh or rehydrated tofu skin, 3 ½ oz enoki mushrooms, 5 ½ oz pak choi or spinach, 1 carrot, 1 oz Chinese chives and 1 small bunch fresh coriander on small plates.

Step 3: Boil 8 quail eggs for 2 minutes and peel; they'll finish cooking in the broth.

Step 4: Warm four large, deep bowls with boiling water, then tip it out. Ladle in the boiling broth and spoon 3 tbsp vegetable oil over each; the oil seals the surface and keeps it near boiling.

Step 5: Common mistake: carrying the bowls slowly or using cold bowls; the broth drops below cooking heat. Serve immediately. At the table, slide in the tofu skin and quail eggs first, then the greens and mushrooms, and finally the noodles and herbs. Stir, wait a minute, and add 3 tbsp pickled mustard greens (zha cai) and 2 tbsp chilli oil to taste.