Dezhou braised chicken

Step 1: Pat the 3 ⅛ lb whole chicken dry. Truss it the Dezhou way: cut a small slit in the skin under each drumstick joint and tuck the drumsticks into the cavity, then fold the wings behind the back. The bird becomes a compact oval that holds together through the long braise.

Step 2: Brush the chicken all over with the 1 tbsp honey or maltose mix and leave on a rack for 15 minutes so the glaze dries a little. Wash your hands and the board.

Step 3: Heat 2 ½ cups neutral oil in a wok to 350°F. Fry the chicken, ladling oil over the top and turning carefully, for 4–5 minutes until the skin is a deep reddish gold all over. Stand back; the glaze can spit.

Step 4: Meanwhile, put 10 ½ cups water, 4 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 tbsp dark soy sauce, ⅔ oz rock sugar, 2 tsp salt, 1 oz fresh ginger, 3 spring onions, 3 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick, 3 bay leaves, 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, 1 tsp fennel seeds, 4 cloves and 2 black cardamom pods (and the tangerine peel if using) in a deep pot just big enough for the bird. Bring to the boil.

Step 5: Lower in the fried chicken, breast down; the stock should cover it. Put a small heatproof plate on top to keep it under. Bring back to a simmer over a high heat for 5 minutes.

Step 6: Turn the heat to the lowest setting, cover and let the stock just shiver, with only the odd bubble, for 2 hours. A rolling boil is the classic mistake: the skin splits and the meat dries.

Step 7: Check the thickest part of the thigh with a thermometer: it must read at least 165°F (165 °F), and the juices must run clear. It will be well beyond that after this long.

Step 8: Turn off the heat and leave the chicken in the stock for 20 minutes to soak up more flavour.

Step 9: Lift it out very gently with two large spoons under the body and drain on a platter. Serve warm, pulled apart at the table. Strain the stock, cool it quickly and keep it in the fridge for 3 days or freeze it for the next chicken.