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Ensaymada

Sweet cheese brioche

Ensaymada: coiled butter brioche with sugar and grated cheese

Filipino bakeries took the coiled Mallorcan ensaïmada and made it richer and softer: an egg-yolk brioche rolled with butter into a snail, baked pale gold, then spread with more butter, dusted with sugar and heaped with finely grated cheese. Boxes of them are carried to Christmas visits and town fiestas, and a single one with hot tsokolate makes a proper merienda. The salty cheese against the sweet crumb is the whole point. Chef's tip: the dough must be sticky and soft when you knead it; adding flour until it is easy to handle gives you dry, bready buns instead of feather-light ones.
Total time
170 min
Difficulty
hard
Serves
12
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Ingredients

Serves12

For the dough

For rolling and topping

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What you'll need

Fresh ingredients (3)

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Method

0/8 done
  1. Step 1: Stir ¼ oz instant yeast and a pinch of 2 ⅞ oz caster sugar into ¾ cup whole milk and leave for 5 minutes, until foamy.

    5 min
  2. Step 2: In a large bowl or stand mixer, combine 16 oz bread flour, the rest of 2 ⅞ oz caster sugar and 1 tsp salt. Add the milk mixture and 5 egg yolks and mix to a shaggy dough.

    3 min
  3. Step 3: Knead for 8 minutes on medium speed (12–15 by hand), then add 3 ⅞ oz unsalted butter a spoonful at a time, kneading until each piece disappears. The dough is ready when it is glossy, sticky and stretches thin without tearing.

    15 min
  4. Step 4: Cover and leave in a warm place until doubled, about 1 hour.

    60 min
  5. Step 5: Divide into 12 pieces. Roll each into a thin rectangle about 30 × 10 cm, brush with 1 ¾ oz unsalted butter, roll up from the long side into a rope and coil it into a snail, tucking the end underneath.

    20 min
  6. Step 6: Set the coils in greased 10 cm tins or on a lined tray, cover loosely and leave until puffy and almost doubled, 45–60 minutes. Heat the oven to 350°F (325°F fan).

    50 min
  7. Step 7: Bake for 15–18 minutes, until pale golden on top and the bases sound hollow when tapped. Keep them pale; dark ensaymada has dried out.

    17 min
  8. Step 8: While still slightly warm, spread each bun with the rest of 1 ¾ oz unsalted butter, sprinkle with 2 ⅛ oz caster sugar and press a generous mound of 3 ½ oz edam or mild cheddar on top. They keep in an airtight box for 2 days.

    5 min

Nutrition per serving

Calories
360 kcal
Protein
8 g
Carbs
41 g
Fat
18 g
Fibre
1 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does ensaymada take?
About 170 minutes in total: 150 minutes to prepare and 20 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
12 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it vegetarian?
Yes. It has no meat or fish.
Can I make it ahead?
Yes. It keeps well, so you can cook it earlier in the day or the day before and reheat it.
What can I use instead of whole milk?
Semi-skimmed milk with 1 tbsp cream per 240ml (1 cup).
What can I use instead of caster sugar?
Caster sugar, same amount.

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