Fermented bean curd

Step 1: Wrap the 1 ⅛ lb firm tofu in a clean cloth and press under a 2 kg weight in the fridge overnight, until it feels dense and dry. Cut into 3 cm cubes.

Step 2: Scald a bamboo steamer basket or rack and the clean rice straw (if using) with boiling water and let them dry. Arrange the cubes on it 2 cm apart, cover with a clean cloth, and keep in a cool room at 12–64°F away from sun.

Step 3: Leave for 4–7 days, checking daily. You want an even, soft white to greyish-white fluffy bloom 3–5 mm long and a mild mushroom smell. Discard any cube with coloured spots (green, black, pink, orange, yellow), slime, or an ammonia or rotten smell.

Step 4: Wash a 750 ml jar in hot soapy water and boil it for 10 minutes; let it dry completely.

Step 5: Bring 1 cup water and 1 oz salt to a boil for 1 minute to dissolve, then let the brine cool completely.

Step 6: Gently pat the bloom flat on each cube with dry fingers. Mix 1 ¾ oz salt, 2 tbsp fine chilli powder and 1 tsp ground Sichuan pepper in a dry bowl and roll each cube in it until coated on every side.

Step 7: Stack the cubes in the jar, pour in the cold brine to cover, then float 2 tbsp neutral oil on top. Close and refrigerate.

Step 8: Age in the fridge for 6–8 weeks. It is ready when a cube is creamy-soft to the centre and tastes savoury rather than beany. Keep refrigerated, covered by brine, up to 6 months, using a clean dry spoon. Discard if fuzzy mould grows on the surface, it turns slimy or smells putrid.