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Gâteau à la broche
Spit cake
Pyrenean spit cake, made at home under the grill
At weddings and village fairs in the Aveyron and the Pyrenees, gâteau à la broche is a performance: a wooden cone turns on a spit in front of a wood fire while a cook ladles batter over it, layer after layer, for hours. The drips set into the spiky ridges that make the tall, hollow cake look like a fir tree. Slices have thin golden rings, a soft, buttery, eggy crumb and a scent of orange-flower water; it is eaten at the end of the feast with sweet wine for the adults or coffee. Older recipes use rum where this one uses orange-flower water and lemon, and at home a foil-wrapped rolling pin turned under a hot grill does the job of the spit. Pouring too much batter at once is the easy mistake: thick layers stay raw inside, so ladle thinly and let each one colour. Chef's tip: keep the batter at room temperature and stir it each time; cold batter clings badly and drips off in sheets.
- Total time
- 140 min
- Difficulty
- hard
- Serves
- 12
Ingredients
For the batter
- 9 oz unsalted buttermelted and cooled
- 9 oz caster sugar
- 8 eggsseparated
- 9 oz plain flour
- 1 pinch salt
- 2 tbsp orange-flower water
- 1 tbsp lemon zest
- 2 tbsp dark rum (optional)traditional, instead of 1 tbsp of the orange-flower water
For the spit
- 1 tbsp sunflower oilfor the paper
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Method
0/9 doneStep 1: Wrap a straight wooden rolling pin (about 45 cm, without handles) tightly in two layers of foil, then a layer of baking paper tied on with kitchen string. Brush the paper with 1 tbsp sunflower oil.
Step 2: Set the pin across a deep roasting tin so it can turn freely, with the paper part over the tin. Put the oven shelf so the pin sits about 10 cm below the grill, and heat the grill to high.
Step 3: Beat 9 oz caster sugar with the yolks from 8 eggs for 5 minutes, until pale and thick. Beat in 9 oz unsalted butter, 2 tbsp orange-flower water, 2 tbsp dark rum (if using), 1 tbsp lemon zest and 1 pinch salt, then fold in 9 oz plain flour.
5 minStep 4: Whisk the whites to firm peaks and fold them in, in three lots, to a thick batter that runs slowly off the ladle.
Step 5: Spoon a thin layer of batter over the paper while turning the pin by its ends (use oven gloves). Slide it under the grill and turn it slowly for 2–3 minutes, until the layer is set and golden.
3 minStep 6: Take the tin out, ladle on another thin layer while turning, letting some drip; return it to the grill and colour it. Pour the drips from the tin back into the batter bowl now and then.
Step 7: Keep going, layer after layer, for 60–80 minutes, until the batter is used up. Toward the end, pour more slowly over the same spots so the drips set into spikes. Each layer should be deep golden before the next goes on; never let it burn.
75 minStep 8: When it is done, the outside is firm, ridged and deep golden, and a skewer pushed through to the pin comes out clean.
Step 9: Leave the cake on the pin to cool for 30 minutes. Stand it upright, pull out the pin and peel away the paper from inside. Cool fully, then slice across into rings.
30 min
Nutrition per serving
- Calories
- 400 kcal
- Protein
- 7 g
- Carbs
- 41 g
- Fat
- 23 g
- Fibre
- 1 g
Nutrition values are estimates.
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Good to know
- How long does gâteau à la broche take?
- About 140 minutes in total: 40 minutes to prepare and 100 minutes to cook.
- How many people does it serve?
- 12 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
- Is it vegetarian?
- Yes. It has no meat or fish.
- What can I use instead of unsalted butter?
- The same weight of ghee or coconut oil (for frying and most baking).
- What can I use instead of caster sugar?
- Caster sugar, same amount.
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