Godeulppaegi kimchi

Step 1: Trim off any yellow leaves from 2 ¼ lb fresh godeulppaegi (Korean bitter lettuce), with roots and scrape the soil from the roots with a small knife, keeping each plant whole.

Step 2: Wash the plants in several changes of cold water until no grit settles in the bottom of the bowl.

Step 3: Dissolve 3 ½ oz coarse sea salt in 8 ¼ cups water (a 5% brine: 50 g salt per litre) in a large non-metal bowl. Submerge the plants, weigh them down with a plate and leave in a cool place.

Step 4: Once a day for 3–5 days, drain and replace the brine with a fresh batch made the same way. Taste a leaf each day; the milky bitterness should fade to a mild, pleasant edge. Some white froth on the brine is normal; a rotten smell is not, so throw them out if that happens.

Step 5: Rinse the plants twice in cold water, then drain in a colander for 1 hour, pressing gently.

Step 6: Clean the storage container: wash a glass jar or lidded box in hot soapy water, rinse, then dry it upside down in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes (or pour boiling water through it and air-dry). Let it cool; everything that touches the kimchi must be clean and dry.

Step 7: Whisk 3 tbsp glutinous rice flour into 1 ¾ cups water in a pan and cook over a medium heat, stirring, until thick, glossy and translucent, about 6 minutes. Cool completely.

Step 8: Stir 2 ⅞ oz gochugaru (Korean chilli flakes) into the cool paste with ½ cup anchovy fish sauce (myeolchi-aekjeot) and leave 10 minutes until the flakes swell and the paste turns deep brick red.

Step 9: Mix in 2 tbsp salted fermented shrimp (saeujeot), 10 garlic cloves, ½ oz fresh ginger and 3 tbsp rice syrup (jocheong) until smooth and glossy.

Step 10: Add the drained plants and 3 ½ oz thin scallions (jjokpa) and rub the seasoning onto every leaf and root with gloved hands.

Step 11: Twist 3–4 plants at a time into small coils and pack them tightly into the jar, pressing out air pockets. Scrape every bit of seasoning on top, add 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds if using, and press baking paper on the surface.

Step 12: Leave the jar at cool room temperature for 1 day, then refrigerate. It is best after 2 weeks and keeps 2–3 months in the fridge. Bubbles, a sour smell and a darker, glossy dressing are normal. Discard if fuzzy or coloured mould, sliminess or a putrid smell appears; always lift it out with a clean, dry spoon.