Guiyang si wa wa

Step 1: Mix 5 ½ oz plain flour with ½ cup just-boiled water using chopsticks, then knead into a smooth, soft dough. Cover and rest for 20 minutes.

Step 2: Roll into a log and cut into 24 pieces. Flatten two pieces, brush one with 1 tbsp vegetable oil, stack them and roll the pair out to a 10 cm round. Repeat with the rest.

Step 3: Cook each pair in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for 30–40 seconds a side, until bubbles appear and there are faint pale-brown spots. Peel the two layers apart while warm and keep them under a cloth.

Step 4: Common mistake: cooking the pancakes until crisp. They should stay soft and floppy enough to fold.

Step 5: Toast 1 tbsp dried chilli flakes, toasted in a dry pan for 30 seconds until they darken and smell smoky. Warm 1 ¼ cups vegetable stock and stir in 3 tbsp rice vinegar, 1 tbsp light soy sauce, the chilli, 2 cloves garlic, 1 spring onion, 1 small handful fresh coriander and 1 tsp toasted sesame oil. Divide into small bowls.

Step 6: Set out 1 carrot, 1 cucumber, 3 ½ oz white radish (mooli), 3 ½ oz beansprouts, 2 ⅛ oz kelp (seaweed) strips, 1 potato, 1 ¾ oz thin rice noodles, 4 tbsp pickled mustard greens and 3 tbsp fried soybeans or peanuts in separate dishes.

Step 7: To eat, lay a pancake in your palm, add a pinch of 3–4 fillings, fold the bottom up and the sides in to make an open cone, then spoon in a little broth and eat it in one or two bites.