Hakusaizuke

Step 1: Clean the jar or container and lid: wash in hot soapy water, rinse, then dry in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes (or pour boiling water over and in it and air-dry upside down). Let it cool; it must be completely dry.

Step 2: Cut the 2 ⅝ lb napa cabbage lengthways into quarters through the root, so the leaves stay attached. Rinse and shake dry. If you can, lay the quarters cut-side up in the sun or near a sunny window for 4–6 hours, until the leaves are slightly limp; this concentrates the flavour.

Step 3: Set aside a small handful of the 1 ¼ oz coarse sea salt. Sprinkle the rest between every few leaves, more at the thick white base than on the green tips.

Step 4: Pack the quarters tightly into a container, alternating root ends, and scatter ⅓ oz kombu, 2 dried red chillies and 2 tbsp yuzu peel between the layers. Sprinkle the reserved salt on top.

Step 5: Lay a plate on top and weigh it down with about twice the cabbage's weight. Leave in a cool place (below 59°F) or the fridge.

Step 6: After about 1 day, when the brine has risen above the cabbage, halve the weight. Leave 1–2 more days, until the ribs are translucent and flexible and it smells briny and fresh. Normal: some bubbles and a faintly cloudy brine as it sours. Bad: fuzzy coloured mould, slimy leaves or a rotten smell; throw it away.

Step 7: Move the cabbage and brine to the fridge in a clean jar. Keeps 1–2 weeks, getting sourer. To serve, squeeze a quarter, cut it into 3 cm pieces and pile on a plate with some of the kombu and yuzu.