Hyldeblomstsaft

Step 1: Pick the 15 elderflower heads on a dry morning once the dew has gone, choosing heads that are fully open, creamy white and sweet-smelling. Be certain of the plant: elder is a woody shrub, not a plant growing from the ground like cow parsley or hemlock, and its leaves, stems, bark and unripe berries are toxic, so use only the flowers. Shake each head gently over a tray to dislodge insects.

Step 2: Bring the 3 ¼ cups water and 1 ⅛ lb sugar to a boil in a pan over a medium heat, stirring until the syrup is completely clear. Take it off the heat and let it cool until just lukewarm, about 30 minutes; boiling syrup cooks the flowers and makes them taste of hay.

Step 3: Scrub the 2 unwaxed lemons and cut them into thin slices. Put them in a large, scrupulously clean glass or food-grade plastic bowl with the ⅔ oz citric acid. Snip the flowers into the bowl, keeping as little green stalk as possible.

Step 4: Pour the lukewarm syrup over, stir, and push the flowers under. Cover with a clean cloth or lid and leave in the fridge or a cool place below 59°F for 3–4 days, stirring once a day with a clean spoon. It is ready when it smells strongly of elderflower.

Step 5: Wash two 750 ml glass bottles and caps in hot soapy water, rinse, and heat the bottles in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes; boil the caps for 5 minutes.

Step 6: Strain the cordial through a sieve lined with damp muslin, pressing the flowers lightly. Discard the flowers and lemon.

Step 7: For longer keeping, bring the strained cordial just to a boil over a medium heat, then pour it straight into the hot bottles through a funnel and cap at once. To keep it raw and extra fresh, simply bottle it cold and refrigerate.

Step 8: Storage: raw cordial keeps 3–4 weeks in the fridge; hot-bottled cordial keeps up to 6 months in a cool, dark cupboard, then 4 weeks in the fridge once opened. It also freezes well in ice-cube trays. Throw it away if it starts to fizz, smells yeasty or of alcohol, grows mould or turns slimy, as that means it has begun to ferment.

Step 9: To serve, pour about 45 ml cordial into each glass and top up with 250 ml 25 cups cold still or sparkling water, adding ice cubes and a sprig of mint sprigs if you like. Taste and add more cordial or water to suit.