Jaew bong

Step 1: Put 6 shallots, 1 garlic and 1 oz galangal in a dry heavy frying pan over a medium heat (or on a grill over charcoal). Roast, turning often, for 12–15 minutes until the skins are blackened in patches and the insides are soft.

Step 2: In the same pan over a low heat, toast 10 dried long red chillies for 1–2 minutes, pressing them down, until they darken and crisp. Watch them closely: a common mistake is letting them go black, which makes the whole jar bitter.

Step 3: Put 4 tbsp bottled cooked pla ra (fermented fish sauce) and 2 tbsp water in a small saucepan and bring to a full boil, then simmer for 3 minutes. Boiling it makes it safe to eat and tames the smell. Strain out any bones or rice husk.

Step 4: Peel the shallots and garlic and chop the galangal. Pound the chillies to flakes in a mortar, then add the galangal and pound until fine, then the shallots and garlic, to a thick, rough paste.

Step 5: Stir in the hot pla ra, 1 tbsp fish sauce and 1 tsp palm sugar. Taste: it should be salty, smoky and hot with a touch of sweetness. Add more fish sauce or sugar to suit.

Step 6: Serve at room temperature with vegetables and sticky rice. Store in a clean jar in the fridge for up to 1 week.