Jeow bong

Step 1: Toast 20 large dried red chillies in a dry pan over a low heat for 2–3 minutes, stirring, until darker and crisp but not black. Open a window; the fumes are strong.

Step 2: Roast 1 bulb garlic, 6 shallots and 1 oz galangal in the same pan or under a hot grill for 12–15 minutes, turning, until soft and blackened in spots. Peel the garlic and shallots.

Step 3: Pound the chillies in a mortar (or blitz) to coarse flakes, then add the garlic, shallots and galangal and pound to a rough paste.

Step 4: Warm 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a pan over a low heat. Add the paste, 2 ⅛ oz palm sugar, 3 tbsp fish sauce, 1 tbsp tamarind paste and ½ tsp salt and cook for 5–8 minutes, stirring, until thick, sticky and dark red. A common mistake is a high heat; the sugar burns quickly.

Step 5: Stir in 2 ⅛ oz cooked pork skin (or chicharrón) and cook for 2 minutes. Cool, then spoon into a clean jar. Keep it in the fridge for up to 2 weeks and always use a clean spoon.