Kampot pepper and lime dip

Step 1: Put 1 tbsp whole black Kampot peppercorns in a small dry frying pan over a low heat. Shake the pan for 60–90 seconds, until they smell warm and resinous; do not let them smoke.

Step 2: Tip them into a mortar and crack with a few firm blows of the pestle until most are broken into coarse pieces about the size of a grain of rice. Leave some bigger bits; you want texture, not powder.

Step 3: Add 1 tsp flaky sea salt and ¼ tsp sugar and grind 3 or 4 times, just enough to mix them through the pepper.

Step 4: Divide the pepper salt between small saucers, about 1 heaped teaspoon each.

Step 5: Halve 2 limes and squeeze over each saucer at the table, about 1 tablespoon of juice per person, then stir with a chopstick until the salt starts to dissolve into a loose, speckled paste.

Step 6: Add a few 1 tsp fresh or brined green peppercorns and slices of 1 fresh red chilli if you like more heat and colour.

Step 7: Taste with whatever you are dipping and adjust: more lime if it is too salty, more salt if it tastes thin. The dry pepper salt keeps in a jar for a week; add the lime only when serving.