Paella valenciana

Step 1: Set the paella pan over your largest hob ring (or straddle two), or over a hot barbecue. Pour in the ¼ cup olive oil, heat over a medium-high heat and sprinkle a little of the ½ tsp salt around the pan so the meat doesn't stick.

Step 2: Add the 1 ⅓ lb bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks and 14 oz rabbit and brown them slowly for 15–20 minutes, turning, until golden all over. This deep browning is where the flavour comes from, so don't hurry it. Push the meat to the edges of the pan.

Step 3: Put the 7 oz flat green beans (runner beans or Italian flat beans) and 5 ½ oz garrofó or large butter beans in the centre and fry for 4 minutes, stirring, until the green beans darken a little.

Step 4: Make a space in the middle, add the 1 ripe tomato and cook for 3 minutes until it darkens and thickens. Stir in the 1 tsp sweet pimentón (Spanish paprika) for 10 seconds only; it burns quickly.

Step 5: Pour in the 5 ¾ cups water straight away, add the 1 pinch saffron threads with its soaking water and the rest of the 1 ½ tsp salt, and bring to the boil. Simmer for 20 minutes to make a stock in the pan. Taste the broth: it should be slightly too salty, because the rice will soak up the salt.

Step 6: Sprinkle in the 14 oz short round paella rice (bomba or senia) in an even layer across the whole pan (Valencian cooks often pour it in a line across the middle and spread it). Give it one gentle stir to spread it evenly, then don't stir again. Common mistake: stirring the rice from here on. It makes the paella sticky and stops the crust forming.

Step 7: Cook over a high heat for 8–10 minutes, until the rice starts to show at the surface. Turn the pan or move it over the heat so it bubbles evenly to the edges.

Step 8: Lower to medium-low and cook for 8–10 minutes more, until the liquid has been absorbed and the grains are tender with a slight bite. Lay the 1 sprig rosemary on top in the last 2 minutes if using. The chicken should now be well past 165°F/165 °F at the bone and the juices clear.

Step 9: For the socarrat, the toasty crust on the base, turn the heat up for the last 1–2 minutes. Listen: when it crackles softly and smells toasty but not burnt, it's ready. Take it off the heat.

Step 10: Cover the pan loosely with a clean tea towel or foil and rest for 5 minutes. Serve from the pan, with 1 lemon wedges wedges if you like (Valencians are divided on lemon).