Pakhala bhata

Step 1: Put 1 ⅓ lb cooked rice, cooled in a deep bowl and pour over 3 ¼ cups cold water. For the sour version, cover and leave at room temperature overnight; for the fresh version, rest 1 hour in the fridge.

Step 2: Fry the sides: heat 3 tbsp mustard oil in a kadai over a medium heat. Fry 1 ⅜ oz sun-dried lentil dumplings (badi) for 1–2 minutes until golden and crunchy; lift out. Toss 2 medium potatoes with ½ tsp ground turmeric and ½ tsp salt and fry for 8–10 minutes until crisp at the edges.

Step 3: Char 1 medium aubergine directly over a gas flame or under a hot grill for 10 minutes, turning, until the skin is black and the flesh collapses. Peel and mash with a little of 1 small onion, salt and a drizzle of the frying oil.

Step 4: Crush the fried badi with the remaining onion and a few drops of raw mustard oil for badi chura.

Step 5: Stir 7 oz plain yogurt, 1 tsp salt, 2 green chillies, ¾ in ginger and 4 lime leaves or curry leaves into the rice and water. Heat 1 tbsp mustard oil in a small pan; add ½ tsp black mustard seeds and ½ tsp cumin seeds and pour over as soon as they crackle. Sprinkle with 1 tsp ground roasted cumin.

Step 6: Ladle into bowls with plenty of the liquid and serve with the potato, aubergine and badi chura on the side. Common mistake: draining off the water; the cool, slightly sour water is half the point, and is drunk at the end.