Papas arrugadas con mojo picón

Step 1: Put the 2 ¼ lb small new potatoes, all the same size in a pan in which they fit in one snug layer. Add the 5 ½ oz coarse sea salt and pour in the 4 ¼ cups water so it only just covers them.

Step 2: Bring to the boil and cook, uncovered, for 20–25 minutes until a knife slides into the biggest potato with no resistance.

Step 3: Pour off all the water, return the pan to a low heat and shake it now and then for 2–4 minutes until the skins dry, wrinkle and turn white with salt. A common mistake is covering the potatoes with too much water; they then never take on enough salt to form the crust.

Step 4: For the mojo, drain the 3 dried sweet red peppers (ñora or choricero) and scrape the soft flesh from the skins. Pound the 2 small dried hot chillies (pimienta picona), 5 cloves garlic, 1 tsp cumin seeds and 1 tsp salt in a mortar (or use a small blender) to a paste.

Step 5: Add the pepper flesh and 1 tbsp sweet paprika and pound until smooth. Work in the 3 tbsp red wine vinegar, then drizzle in the ¾ cup olive oil a little at a time, stirring, until you have a thick, glossy, brick-red sauce.

Step 6: Serve the potatoes warm in a bowl with the mojo alongside for dipping.