Perdiz al modo de Alcántara

Step 1: Melt the 1 oz butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Cook the 2 shallots for 4 minutes until soft, add the 5 ½ oz chestnut mushrooms and cook for 6 minutes until their liquid has gone, then add the 5 ½ oz chicken livers and cook for 3–4 minutes until browned all over.

Step 2: Stir in the 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, half the ½ tsp salt and ¼ tsp black pepper, and the ⅓ oz black truffle if using, then cool completely.

Step 3: Season the 4 oven-ready partridges inside with the rest of the ½ tsp salt and ¼ tsp black pepper and fill the cavities with the cold stuffing. Tie the legs together with string.

Step 4: Put the birds in a snug dish, pour over the 1 ¼ cups ruby port, cover and marinate in the fridge overnight (or at least 6 hours), turning once.

Step 5: Heat the oven to 350°F (325°F fan). Lift the birds out and pat them dry, keeping the marinade. Heat the 2 tbsp olive oil in a flameproof casserole and brown the partridges for 8–10 minutes until golden all over.

Step 6: Pour in the marinade and ¾ cup chicken stock, bring to a simmer, cover and transfer to the oven for 35–45 minutes. The birds are done when a thermometer in the thickest part of the thigh and in the centre of the stuffing reads 165°F and the juices run clear.

Step 7: Lift out the birds and rest them, covered, for 10 minutes. Boil the sauce for 5 minutes to reduce by a third, stir in the 1 tsp cornstarch and simmer for 1 minute until glossy. A common mistake is skipping the reduction: the sauce stays thin and tastes sharply of port.

Step 8: Remove the string and serve each partridge whole with the sauce spooned over, with mashed potato or roast chestnuts.