Pla rad prik

Step 1: Rinse 1 ⅔ lb whole sea bass inside and out and pat it very dry with kitchen paper, including the cavity. Cut 3–4 deep diagonal slashes on each side, down to the bone, and rub all over with 1 tsp salt. Keep the raw-fish board separate and wash it afterwards.

Step 2: Pound 4 long red chillies, 4 bird's eye chillies, 6 cloves garlic and 3 shallots to a coarse paste in a mortar, or pulse them in a small food processor.

Step 3: Heat 4 ¼ cups vegetable oil in a wok or wide, deep pan over a medium-high heat to 350°F (a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds). Meanwhile, dust the fish all over with 4 tbsp rice flour and shake off the excess.

Step 4: Lower the fish into the oil head first, tilting it away from you. Fry without moving it for 6–7 minutes, until the underside is deep golden and crisp, then turn it carefully with two spatulas and fry for 5–6 minutes more. It is done when the flesh at the thickest point near the head is opaque and flakes easily (145°F / 145 °F).

Step 5: Lift the fish onto a wire rack to drain. A common mistake is resting it on kitchen paper: the underside steams and goes soft, while a rack keeps it crisp.

Step 6: Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a small pan over a medium heat and fry the chilli paste for 2–3 minutes, stirring, until fragrant and the oil turns red.

Step 7: Add 2 ⅛ oz palm sugar, 2 tbsp tamarind concentrate, 2 ½ tbsp fish sauce and ¼ cup water and simmer for 3–4 minutes, until the sauce thickens enough to coat a spoon. Taste and adjust: it should be sweet, sour, salty and hot in equal measure.

Step 8: Set the fish on a warm platter and spoon the hot sauce over just before serving, so the skin stays crunchy. Scatter over 1 handful Thai sweet basil leaves, 3 makrut lime leaves and 1 handful coriander leaves.