Samlor proher

Step 1: Toast 2 tbsp uncooked jasmine rice in a dry frying pan over a medium-low heat for 6–8 minutes, shaking often, until the grains are golden brown and smell like popcorn. Cool, then grind to a fine powder in a mortar or spice grinder.

Step 2: Pound or blend 2 lemongrass stalks, ½ oz galangal, ⅛ oz fresh turmeric, 3 garlic cloves, 1 shallot and 3 kaffir lime leaves into a fine paste.

Step 3: Fill a large bowl with cold water and add the juice of 1 lime. Peel the tough outer purple bracts off 1 banana flower until you reach the pale heart, then slice it thinly, dropping the slices straight into the water. Pick out and discard the hard stamen from any small florets as you go.

Step 4: Mash 1 ½ tbsp prahok (fermented fish paste) with 4 tablespoons of the measured 0.1 litres water until smooth, pressing it through a sieve if it has any bones.

Step 5: Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Fry the kroeung for 2–3 minutes, stirring, until fragrant and lightly golden.

Step 6: Pour in the rest of the 1.2 litres water and stir in the mashed prahok. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 10 minutes so the prahok is thoroughly cooked and the broth smells savoury rather than sharp.

Step 7: Add 14 oz pumpkin or butternut squash and simmer for 8 minutes, until the edges are just starting to soften.

Step 8: Drain the banana flower and add it with 3 ½ oz long beans and 4 Thai aubergines. Simmer for 5–6 minutes, until the beans are tender but still green.

Step 9: Whisk the toasted rice powder into the soup and simmer for 2 minutes, stirring, until the broth looks slightly cloudy and silky.

Step 10: Add 5 ½ oz pumpkin shoots, spinach or morning glory and 1 tsp sugar and cook for 1 minute, until just wilted. Taste and add 1 tbsp fish sauce if it needs more salt.

Step 11: Ladle into bowls, scatter with 1 handful rice paddy herb or Thai basil if using, and serve hot with 1 ⅓ lb steamed jasmine rice.