Mongolian lamb hot pot

Step 1: Lay the 1 ¾ lb boneless lamb leg or shoulder slices out on chilled plates, keeping them covered and in the fridge until the table is ready. Use a separate board and knife for the raw lamb.

Step 2: For the dip, put 4 oz Chinese sesame paste in a bowl and stir in ½ cup warm water a spoonful at a time; it will seize, then loosen to the texture of thick cream. Mash in 2 cubes fermented bean curd (white), then stir in 1 tbsp light soy sauce and 1 tsp sugar. Divide between small bowls; everyone adds chive flower sauce, chilli oil and coriander to taste.

Step 3: Arrange 14 oz Chinese leaf (napa cabbage), 14 oz firm tofu, the drained 3 ½ oz glass noodles and 7 oz spinach on platters.

Step 4: Put 10 ½ cups water, 1 oz fresh ginger, 3 spring onions and 4 dried shiitake mushrooms (and the dates if using) into a hot pot or wide casserole and bring to the boil, then lower to a steady simmer for 10 minutes. Set the pot on a tabletop burner.

Step 5: Give each person a separate pair of chopsticks or a small strainer for raw meat. Swish a slice of lamb in the simmering broth for 10–20 seconds, until it changes colour and no pink is left; slices this thin pass medium (145°F / 145 °F) almost at once. Dip and eat straight away.

Step 6: Skim off any foam as it rises. Dropping a whole plate of lamb into the pot at once is a common mistake: the broth stops bubbling, the meat stews grey and the broth goes cloudy. Cook a few slices at a time.

Step 7: Once most of the lamb is eaten, add the cabbage, tofu and noodles to the pot and simmer for 3–4 minutes until the cabbage is tender, then the spinach for 1 minute. Serve the vegetables with a little broth.