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Step 1: Clean the jars: wash three 500 ml jars and new lids in hot soapy water, rinse, then stand the jars in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes and simmer the lids in water for 5 minutes. Keep the jars warm in the switched-off oven.

Step 2: Fill a bowl with cold water and squeeze in the ½ lemon juice.

Step 3: Peel the 3 ⅓ lb small, firm cooking pears thinly with a vegetable peeler, leaving the stalks on, and drop each one into the lemon water as you go so it does not brown. Halve and core any that are larger than an egg.

Step 4: Put 2 cups water, 1 ⅛ lb sugar, ¾ cup white wine vinegar or spirit vinegar, 2 cinnamon sticks, 12 cloves and 3 slices fresh ginger (if using) in a wide pan and bring to a boil over a medium heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved and the syrup looks clear.

Step 5: Lift the pears into the syrup, lower the heat and poach at a bare simmer, lid ajar, turning them now and then, until a thin skewer slides in with slight resistance and the edges look translucent. Small pears take 15–20 minutes, larger ones up to 30; check each one, as they rarely finish together.

Step 6: Lift the pears out with a slotted spoon and pack them snugly into the warm jars, stalks up.

Step 7: Boil the syrup hard for 5–8 minutes until it has reduced by about a quarter and runs off a spoon in a slightly syrupy stream. Pour it over the pears so they are covered by 1 cm, leaving 1.5 cm headspace, and tuck a piece of cinnamon and a few cloves into each jar. Wipe the rims and close.

Step 8: For the fridge: cool, then refrigerate for up to 2 months. For the cupboard: stand the closed jars on a rack or folded cloth in a deep pot, cover with 3 cm of hot water, bring to a boil and boil for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat, wait 5 minutes, lift out and leave undisturbed for 12 hours; the lids should be pulled down and not flex. Sealed jars keep in a cool, dark cupboard for up to a year; refrigerate any that did not seal.

Step 9: Let them mellow for at least a week. Once opened, keep in the fridge and use within 3–4 weeks, always lifting pears out with a clean, dry fork. Throw the jar away if you see mould, the syrup fizzes or turns cloudy or slimy, the lid bulges or leaks, or it smells off or alcoholic.