Umeboshi (salted dried ume plums)

Step 1: Wash 2 ¼ lb ripe yellow ume plums gently, soak in cold water for 2 hours if they smell green, then pat each one completely dry. Pick out the little stem knobs with a toothpick.

Step 2: Wash a 3 litre glass jar or crock in hot soapy water, scald with boiling water and dry. Wipe the inside and the plums with 2 tbsp rice vinegar on kitchen paper.

Step 3: Layer the plums in the jar with 6 ½ oz coarse sea salt, finishing with salt on top. Put a clean plate or bag on top with a weight of about 2 kg.

Step 4: Keep in a cool, dark place. Within 3–5 days a clear liquid (umezu) should rise over the fruit; once it covers them, halve the weight. Leave for 3–4 weeks.

Step 5: For red umeboshi, rub 3 ½ oz red shiso leaves with half of ⅓ oz coarse sea salt, squeeze hard and throw away the dark juice. Repeat with the rest of ⅓ oz coarse sea salt, then loosen the leaves in a little of the umezu, which turns bright red, and add everything to the jar.

Step 6: In late July or August wait for a forecast of three dry, sunny days. Lift the plums out (keep the brine) and spread them on a rack in the sun, turning once a day and bringing them in at night.

Step 7: After 3 days the skins should be wrinkled and soft with flesh still moist. Return the plums to the jar (with or without the brine for softer or drier umeboshi). They are good to eat after a month and keep for years in a cool place.