Vegetarian goose

Step 1: Lift 4 dried shiitake mushrooms out of the soaking water, squeeze them and keep them for another dish (they make good stir-fry). Strain 200 ml of the soaking liquid into a small pan.

Step 2: Add 3 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 tbsp dark soy sauce, 2 tsp sugar and 2 slices fresh ginger to the pan and bring to a simmer over a medium heat until the sugar dissolves, then stir in 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil and take it off the heat. Remove the ginger.

Step 3: Wipe each sheet of 6 dried tofu skin sheets with a damp cloth. Lay the first sheet on a board, trim off the hard rim and brush it all over with the warm seasoning; it softens within a minute. Don't drench it: a soaked sheet tears and the roll goes soggy.

Step 4: Lay a second sheet on top, brush again and repeat until you have used half the sheets. Fold in the sides by 3 cm and roll up tightly from the edge nearest you into a log about 4 cm across. Make a second log with the rest.

Step 5: Wrap each log firmly in a clean cloth or baking paper and tie it with string at both ends and in the middle so it holds its shape.

Step 6: Steam the logs over boiling water for 20 minutes, until firm to the touch. Leave to cool in the cloth for at least 10 minutes, then unwrap.

Step 7: Heat 4 tbsp neutral oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the logs, turning every minute, until they are deep golden brown and blistered on all sides.

Step 8: Cool completely, brush with any remaining seasoning and slice 1 cm thick on the diagonal with a sharp knife. Serve at room temperature. It keeps for 3 days in the fridge.