Xerém de conquilhas

Step 1: Soak 2 ¼ lb small clams in cold water mixed with 1 tbsp salt for 1–2 hours to purge the sand, changing the water once. Discard any with cracked or broken shells, and any open ones that don't close when tapped on the worktop.

Step 2: Bring 5 cups water to the boil in a large pan, add the drained clams, cover and cook over a high heat for 2–3 minutes, shaking the pan, until they open. Lift them out and strain the cooking water through a fine sieve lined with kitchen paper to catch any grit. Discard any clams that stay shut.

Step 3: Pick most of the clams out of their shells, keeping a handful whole for the top.

Step 4: Warm 3 tbsp olive oil in a heavy pan over a medium heat and fry 2 ⅞ oz smoked streaky bacon and 2 ⅞ oz chouriço for 5 minutes, until the fat runs red and the bacon is golden and cooked through.

Step 5: Add 1 onion and 3 garlic cloves and cook gently for 8 minutes until soft and translucent, without browning.

Step 6: Pour in 1 litre of the strained clam water (top up with water if needed) and bring to the boil. Take the pan off the heat and whisk in 7 oz coarse cornmeal (xerém) in a steady stream.

Step 7: Return to a low heat and cook for 15–20 minutes, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until the grains are tender and it is thick but still soft enough to slump on a plate. Add a splash of hot water if it stiffens. A common mistake is cooking it too thick: xerém should be creamy, not set like polenta.

Step 8: Stir in the shelled clams and 1 handful fresh coriander and warm through for 1 minute. Taste for salt; the clam water is often salty enough. Serve at once, topped with the whole clams and 1 lemon on the side.