Yong tau foo

Step 1: Lift 8 dried shiitake mushrooms out of their soaking water. Put half in a pot with 6 ¼ cups water, the strained soaking water, 7 oz soybean sprouts and ⅔ oz ginger. Bring to the boil, then simmer gently over a medium-low heat for 20 minutes, until the broth turns golden and smells nutty.

Step 2: Meanwhile, chop the remaining shiitake finely. Mash 9 oz firm tofu in a bowl with the chopped shiitake, 2 ⅛ oz water chestnuts, 1 ¾ oz carrot, 3 spring onions, 2 tbsp cornflour, 1 tsp toasted sesame oil, ½ tsp white pepper, 1 tbsp light soy sauce and ½ tsp salt. Squeeze a little: it should hold together like soft dough. A wet filling is the classic mistake, and it slides out in the pot; add a spoon more cornflour if needed.

Step 3: Press the stuffing firmly into 8 tofu puffs, 4 large mild green chillies, 8 okra and the 1 long aubergine pockets, smoothing each one flat with a wet finger.

Step 4: Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the chillies and aubergine stuffing-side down for 3 minutes, without moving them, until the filling is golden and crisp. Leave the tofu puffs and okra for the broth.

Step 5: Season the broth with 1 tbsp light soy sauce and 1 tsp salt. Lower in the tofu puffs and okra and simmer for 6–8 minutes, until the stuffing is firm and springs back when pressed. Add the fried pieces and 7 oz choy sum for the last 2 minutes.

Step 6: Divide the pieces and greens between bowls and ladle the hot broth over. Serve 4 tbsp hoisin sauce and 4 tbsp chilli sauce in little dishes for dipping, with 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds on the hoisin.