Yukgaejang

Step 1: Soak the 1 ⅓ lb beef brisket or flank in cold water for 20 minutes to draw out blood, then drain.

Step 2: Put the brisket, 10 ½ cups water, 1 onion, 6 cloves garlic and ¾ in fresh ginger in a large pot. Bring to the boil, skim, and simmer partly covered for 2 hours until a chopstick slides easily into the beef. (Pressure cooker: 40 minutes on high.)

Step 3: Lift out the beef and let it cool for a few minutes. Strain the broth; you need about 1.8 litres. Shred the beef along the grain into thin strands.

Step 4: Blanch the 7 oz soaked or ready-cooked bracken (gosari) in boiling water for 5 minutes to make sure it is fully tender, then drain. Bracken must always be well cooked.

Step 5: In the empty pot heat the 3 tbsp sesame oil plus neutral oil, mixed over a low heat, add the 3 tbsp Korean chilli flakes (gochugaru) and 4 cloves garlic and stir for 1 minute until the oil turns red and smells toasty, not burnt.

Step 6: Toss the shredded beef, gosari and 2 leeks or thick spring onions in the chilli oil with 3 tbsp soup soy sauce (guk-ganjang) and 1 tbsp fish sauce for 2 minutes, then pour in the broth.

Step 7: Add the 9 oz soybean sprouts and simmer for 15 minutes until the leeks are silky and the sprouts lose their raw, beany smell. Season with ½ tsp black pepper and taste; add a little salt if needed.

Step 8: If using 2 eggs, drizzle it in a thin stream over the simmering soup and leave 30 seconds before stirring, so it sets in ribbons. Serve very hot with rice.