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Tacos de suaderoBeef brisket tacos

Suadero is the soul of late-night taquerías in Mexico City, from Coyoacán to the Centro, where thin beef from between the belly and leg bubbles for hours in fat on a domed griddle called a choricera. It turns silky inside and crisp at the edges, then is chopped into tiny doubled tortillas with onion, cilantro and fiery salsa. At home, beef brisket or flank works well, slowly simmered then crisped; the fat is traditionally pork lard, or use beef dripping. Chef's tip: chop the meat small and crisp it in a hot pan just before serving, as taqueros do.

180 minMexicanMeatGluten free
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Bistec a la mexicanaBeef in tomato and chile

Red tomato, white onion and green chile give this dish the colours of the Mexican flag, which is why anything 'a la mexicana' is so loved. Fondas across the country make it every day from thin-cut beef, browned hard and then stewed until tender in a quick, juicy sauce. Serve it with arroz rojo, refried beans and a stack of hot tortillas. Chef's tip: ask the butcher for 'bistec' cut thin from top round, or freeze a piece for 30 minutes so you can slice it thinly yourself.

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Tacos de lenguaBeef tongue tacos

Tongue tacos are prized in the taquerías of Mexico City, Puebla and Guadalajara for their melting, rich texture, and they are a classic Saturday treat. The tongue is simmered for hours with onion, garlic and bay, peeled while warm, diced and seared until golden, then served in small tortillas with sharp salsa verde, onion and cilantro. Chef's tip: peel the skin while the tongue is still hot; once cold it sticks stubbornly.

210 minMexicanMeatGluten free
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Tortitas de camarónShrimp fritters

Friday lunch during Lent in Mexico City, Puebla and Oaxaca often means tortitas de camarón: airy fritters of beaten egg and ground dried shrimp, fried golden and then simmered in a guajillo-ancho sauce with tender nopales. The dried shrimp gives a deep, briny savouriness that a little goes a long way with. Buy them at Mexican or Asian grocers; they should smell of the sea, not of ammonia, and be pink-orange, not grey. Chef's tip: grind the shrimp with heads and legs removed, then sieve the powder, so no sharp bits end up in the batter.

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Bacalao navideñoSalt cod stew

Mexican families inherited bacalao from Spain, but the version on the Christmas Eve table in Mexico City, Guadalajara and Puebla has gone its own way. Instead of the Basque sauce of dried choricero peppers with whole cod pieces, the cod here is soaked, finely shredded and cooked down for an hour with a lot of fresh tomato, olive oil, almonds, green olives, capers and pickled güero chiles until thick enough to pile into bolillo rolls. It tastes even better the next day, which is when the leftover tortas are eaten. Chef's tip: soak the cod in the fridge for 36–48 hours, changing the water four times a day, and taste a flake before cooking; it should be pleasantly salty, not briny.

130 minMexicanFishGluten free
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ManchamantelesPork and chicken fruit stew

Its name means 'tablecloth stainer', and the deep red ancho sauce lives up to it at Sunday lunches in Mexico City, Puebla and Oaxaca, where it has been made in convent kitchens since colonial times. This version uses pork shoulder and chicken thighs, simmered in a sauce thickened with almonds and sesame, then sweetened with chunks of pineapple, ripe plantain and sweet potato. It tastes fruity, mildly hot and rich. Serve with white rice and tortillas. Chef's tip: add the fruit near the end so it holds its shape and keeps its tang.

120 minMexicanMeatGluten free
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Pierna adobadaAdobo roast pork leg

From Puebla to Monterrey, a dark red leg of pork comes out of the oven on 24 or 31 December, its adobo of ancho and guajillo chiles, garlic, vinegar and orange caramelised into a sticky crust. It is sliced at the table with apple salad and Christmas rice, and the leftovers fill tortas for days. This recipe uses a smaller boneless leg or shoulder joint of pork that fits a home oven; it marinates overnight in the fridge and roasts low and slow. Chef's tip: baste with the pan juices every half hour once the foil comes off, so the adobo glazes rather than burns.

300 minMexicanMeatGluten free
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Tacos de carne asadaGrilled steak tacos

In Monterrey, Hermosillo and across the north, a Sunday carne asada means friends around the grill, thin skirt or flank steak seasoned simply with citrus, garlic and salt, cooked over hot coals and chopped straight onto tortillas. Grilled spring onions, guacamole and a smoky salsa go alongside. Use corn tortillas, or the soft flour tortillas of Sonora if gluten is no concern. Chef's tip: keep the marinade to 1–4 hours in the fridge; the citrus starts to toughen the meat after that.

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Barbacoa de borregoSlow-cooked lamb

In Actopan and the towns of Hidalgo, Sunday starts with barbacoa: lamb wrapped in maguey leaves and cooked overnight in an earth pit, with a pot underneath catching the juices for a rich consommé of chickpeas, rice and guajillo. This home version wraps lamb shoulder in banana leaves and cooks it low and slow in the oven over the consommé. The meat is pulled into tacos with onion, cilantro and salsa, and the broth is sipped alongside. Chef's tip: seal the pot well with foil under the lid so no steam escapes; the lamb should cook in its own vapour.

450 minMexicanMeatGluten free
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Tacos árabesSpit-roast pork tacos

Lebanese and Iraqi immigrants who settled in Puebla in the early twentieth century brought the shawarma spit, and Puebla answered with tacos árabes: thin slices of pork marinated in lime, vinegar, herbs and cumin, roasted on a vertical spit and wrapped in soft pan árabe, a thick pitta-like flatbread. This home version stacks the pork on a skewer in the oven. It is served with a smoky chipotle salsa and lime. Chef's tip: marinate the pork overnight in the fridge for the most tender, tangy result.

135 minMexicanMeat
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MucbipolloChicken and pork tamal pie

Across the Yucatán Peninsula, the Maya feast of Hanal Pixán, 'food for the souls', at the end of October is marked by mucbipollo: a huge tamal pie, traditionally buried in a pit oven (pib) to bake, then set on the altar and shared the next day. A thick lard-enriched masa shell holds chicken and pork shoulder stewed in achiote, tomato and epazote, bound with a thickened broth called kol. This version uses a home oven and a deep tin lined with banana leaves. It contains pork. Chef's tip: make the kol thick enough to coat a spoon, or the filling floods the masa and the crust turns gummy.

240 minMexicanMeatGluten free
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Puerco con verdolagasPork with purslane

Purslane grows wild between the maize rows of Central Mexico, and in the rainy season markets sell it in big damp bunches, mostly for this pork dish. Cubes of pork shoulder are simmered until tender, browned in their own fat and finished in green tomatillo salsa with the juicy, slightly lemony leaves. Eat it with white rice and corn tortillas. Chef's tip: keep the pork broth; a ladle of it in the salsa gives the stew its body.

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Coctel de camarónPrawn cocktail

Beach stands from Veracruz to Mazatlán serve this cocktail in tall sundae glasses, the prawns swimming in a cold, tangy tomato-lime juice with onion, cucumber, coriander and avocado. It's eaten with a spoon and crisp tostadas, often with a splash of hot sauce, on a hot day by the sea. The prawns are cooked first; it isn't a ceviche. Chef's tip: save the poaching liquid, chill it and add a few spoonfuls to the sauce for a deeper seafood flavour.

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Chicharrón en salsa verdePork crackling in green salsa

This is a pork dish: sheets of chicharrón, deep-fried pork skin, are broken up and simmered in green tomatillo salsa until they soften into chewy, porky morsels. It's a fixture of Mexico City breakfast stalls and Sunday family tables, eaten in tacos, in a torta or with rice and beans. The sauce is sharp and lively, the crackling rich, and one pan feeds a crowd for very little money. Chef's tip: buy plain chicharrón from a Latin grocer or butcher, not flavoured snack crackling.

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Pescado zarandeadoGrilled marinated whole fish

On the beaches of Nayarit, from San Blas to the island of Mexcaltitán, cooks clamp butterflied snapper in a hinged grill basket and shake it over mangrove charcoal; 'zarandear' means to shake. The flesh is brushed with a paste of guajillo and chipotle chiles, citrus and a little mayonnaise, which chars at the edges while the fish stays moist. Bring it to the table whole and let everyone pull off pieces into tortillas with lime, red onion and cucumber. You can ask the fishmonger to take the head off. Chef's tip: oil the grill basket well, or the skin sticks.

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Tacos gobernadorShrimp and cheese tacos

Mazatlán's seafood restaurants claim the 'governor's taco' was created in the 1980s for a visiting state governor, and it is now a fixture along the Sinaloa coast: shrimp sautéed with onion, poblano and tomato, folded into a griddled tortilla with plenty of melted cheese until crisp and gooey. Serve with avocado, lime and a hot sauce. Chef's tip: buy shrimp that smell of the sea, never of ammonia, and cook them the same day.

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Escabeche de pescadoFried fish in sweet-sour onion sauce

In Lima, escabeche de pescado belongs to the criollo kitchen of the old city: it turns up on Friday lunch menus, on buffet tables, and above all in Lent and Holy Week, when families eat fish and this dish can be made the day before. Fish is fried until golden, then covered in a warm sauce of thick-cut red onion softened in oil with garlic, ají amarillo, ají panca, cumin and vinegar, and left to cool so the flavours soak in. It is served cold or at room temperature with boiled sweet potato, hard-boiled egg and purple botija olives. It tastes tangy, sweet and gently fruity-hot, with crunchy onion over tender fish. The fish here is fully cooked, but because it is a cold seafood dish, pregnant people, babies, older people and anyone with weak immunity should eat it well chilled and within 2 days. Common mistake: stewing the onions until limp; they should only lose their raw bite. It is ready when the sauce has soaked a little into the fish and smells of vinegar and toasted chilli. Chef's tip: use thick fillets of corvina or bonito; thin fillets break under the sauce.

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Pescado en hoja santaFish wrapped in hoja santa

Hoja santa is a big, heart-shaped leaf with a sweet aniseed and pepper scent, and in Veracruz and Oaxaca cooks wrap fish in it for a weekday lunch or a Lenten Friday meal. Fillets are seasoned, topped with tomato, onion, jalapeño and garlic, folded into the leaves and baked or steamed so the fish takes on the perfume. Suitable as part of a balanced diet: lean, high-protein fish with vegetables and no flour. About 230 kcal and 7 g carbohydrate per portion; serve with salad or a couple of corn tortillas. The usual mistake is wrapping too loosely, so the juices run out and the fish dries. If you cannot find hoja santa, use banana leaf with a few fennel fronds or tarragon sprigs. Chef's tip: pass each leaf over a gas flame for a second; it softens and folds without tearing.

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BusecaTripe and white bean stew

Buseca arrived in Montevideo with Italian immigrants from Lombardy and became a classic winter dish of Uruguayan bodegones and family kitchens, eaten on cold June and July days. Honeycomb tripe is simmered until tender, then stewed with white beans, pork chorizo, bacon, peppers, tomato and paprika into a thick, warming stew served with crusty bread. Buy tripe that is already cleaned and blanched (dressed). The usual mistake is undercooking the tripe: it needs a full 2 hours, until it's soft enough to cut with a spoon. Slow-cooker option: after step 4, cook on low for 8 hours. Chef's tip: a little grated lemon zest and parsley stirred in at the end lifts the rich, gelatinous sauce.

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Tacos de guisado (picadillo and rajas con crema)

From about nine in the morning, guisado stalls set up on corners near offices and markets all over Mexico City, from the famous counters on Calle Ámsterdam in the Condesa to the stands outside the Mercado de Medellín. Clay pots line the counter, each with a different home-style stew: chicharrón in salsa verde, potato with chorizo, mole and many more. You point, and they spoon it into two warm tortillas. This home version makes two of the favourites, a tomatoey beef picadillo with potato and carrot, and smoky poblano strips with corn in cream. Chef's tip: always double the tortillas, as the stalls do; one tortilla tears under a juicy stew.

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Morcilla dulceSweet blood sausage with walnuts

No Uruguayan parrilla is complete without morcilla dulce: a soft pork blood sausage sweetened with sugar and scented with orange peel, studded with walnuts and raisins, grilled until the skin crisps and served first, as part of the achuras, while the beef is still cooking. It is pork throughout: pork blood, pork back fat and natural pork casings. Making it at home is a project. Buy fresh pork blood with an anticoagulant added from a butcher who supplies it for sausage making, keep it chilled below 4 °C and use it within a day. The common mistake is poaching at a rolling boil, which bursts the casings. Chef's tip: keep the water at 80–85 °C, just shivering, and prick a sausage after 25 minutes: it is done when brown, not red, juice comes out.

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Tacos campechanosBeef, sausage and crackling tacos

Campechano means a mix, and in the late-night taquerías of Mexico City's Centro Histórico, such as the tiny counters on Calle Bolívar, you order these when you can't decide. The taquero chops griddled steak and crumbly pork longaniza together, then throws in crisp pork crackling that soaks up the juices while keeping a little crunch. Topped with onion, coriander and salsa, they are a classic after-midnight bite. The sausage is pork and must be cooked through. Chef's tip: warm the tortillas in the fat left in the pan; it gives them the same flavour as at the stand.

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ChilorioShredded pork in chilli paste

Chilorio is Sinaloa's great pork dish: pork shoulder simmered until it falls apart, shredded and then fried in pork lard with a vinegary paste of ancho and guajillo chillies until almost dry and deeply brick-red. Ranch cooks around Culiacán made it to keep, and it is still packed into jars and sold in markets across the north. It is rich, tangy and gently spicy rather than fiery, and it fills flour tortillas for burritos, tops scrambled eggs at breakfast or goes into tortas with refried beans. Chef's tip: fry the shredded pork in the lard for a few minutes before the chilli goes in, so the edges crisp and the paste clings instead of stewing.

175 minMexicanMeatGluten free
by KrazyBadal 0 views

Ceviche acapulqueñoLime-marinated fish with tomato and orange

On the beaches of Acapulco, vendors sell ceviche in tall glasses with saltine crackers and tostadas: small cubes of white fish in lime with tomato, onion, green olives, chilli, a sweet streak of ketchup and fresh orange juice, eaten cold on a hot afternoon. The classic version is raw fish 'cooked' only by lime, which does not kill bacteria or parasites, so that version is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. This safer recipe gently poaches the fish until just opaque, then chills it and dresses it in the same tangy, sweet-sharp mixture, so it keeps the firm, fresh texture. Serve with tostadas, crackers and slices of avocado. Chef's tip: dice the vegetables very small and the same size as the fish, so every spoonful has a bit of everything.

by KrazyBadal 0 views

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