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79 recipes

Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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Amazake (sweet koji rice drink)

On New Year's Day, crowds queuing for hatsumōde, the first shrine visit of the year, warm their hands on cups of amazake, and shrines all over Japan ladle it out as a welcome. This is the koji kind: cooked rice is held warm with rice koji, whose enzymes turn the starch into sugar, so the drink is sweet with no added sugar and contains no alcohol (unlike the other amazake made from sake lees). It is thick, creamy and gently fragrant, a little like rice pudding you can drink. Serve it hot with a pinch of grated ginger, or chilled in summer. Chef's tip: a cheap probe thermometer is the whole secret; keep the mixture at 55–60 °C and it will turn sweet every time.

480 min

Japanese Drinks

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Yawata-maki (beef-wrapped burdock)

Yawata-maki is named after Yawata, south of Kyoto, once famous for its burdock, and it graces the Shōgatsu osechi box because burdock roots grow long and deep: a wish for a family rooted firmly and prosperous for many years. Pre-simmered burdock stays earthy and tender with a little bite, wrapped in thin slices of beef that brown and then glisten under a sweet soy glaze; cut, each piece shows a neat spiral. The glaze uses sake and mirin, both rice wines; for no alcohol, use water instead of the sake and 2 tbsp water plus 2 tsp sugar instead of the mirin. Serve at room temperature in the osechi box, or warm with rice and pickles. Chef's tip: roll the beef tightly and start cooking seam-side down; the seam seals and the rolls hold without string.

60 min

Japanese Meat

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Sakurayu (salted cherry blossom tea)

Sakurayu is not really tea at all but salt-pickled cherry blossoms steeped in hot water, and it is served all over Japan at engagements, weddings and other happy occasions, as well as in the hanami season. Green tea is avoided at such moments because "muddying the tea" is a phrase for being evasive, while a blossom opening in a clear cup is a picture of a bright beginning. The drink is pale pink, gently salty and faintly scented of cherry and almond. The blossoms are bought ready-salted (sakura no shiozuke) from Japanese grocers. Serve it with small sweets such as sakura mochi or hanami dango. Chef's tip: use water just off the boil and pour it slowly down the side of the cup, so the petals open without tearing.

5 min

Japanese Drinks

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Kubu irichi (Okinawan kombu stir-fry)

In Okinawa, kubu irichi is cooked for Obon (here called Shōmō or Ukui), when families welcome the spirits of their ancestors home with offerings, and it reappears at every big family gathering. Kombu, 'kubu' in the island dialect, sounds like 'yorokobu', to rejoice, and Okinawa has loved it for centuries thanks to the old kelp trade from Hokkaido. Strips of pork belly are stir-fried until their fat runs, then the kelp, konnyaku and carrot simmer in pork-scented stock until the liquid is absorbed, giving a soft, savoury, gently sweet tangle full of the sea. Serve with rice, as part of an Obon spread or a bentō. Chef's tip: keep some of the kombu soaking water; it is the stock that gives the dish its depth.

45 min

Japanese Meat

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Hamaguri no ushiojiru (clam soup)

Ushiojiru, "tide soup", is the clear soup served at Hinamatsuri on 3 March, and at weddings, all over Japan. It is made with hamaguri, large hard clams whose two half-shells only ever fit their own partner, so the soup carries a wish for a girl to meet the right match and stay together for life. The broth is just kombu, water and the clams' own juices with a little salt: delicate, sweet and briny, like a breath of the sea. Serve two clams in each bowl alongside chirashizushi. Outside Japan, use large venus clams or palourdes. Chef's tip: start the clams in cold water with the kombu and heat them gently, so the flavour seeps into the broth instead of staying locked in the shells.

20 min

Japanese Soups

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Noppe-jiruTaro and vegetable soup

Noppe-jiru is the everyday and festive soup of Niigata, cooked in big pots for New Year, the Obon holidays and winter family gatherings, and served hot or even cold the next day. Taro, carrot, konnyaku, shiitake and fried tofu are simmered in a soy-seasoned dashi, and the taro's own starch, helped by a little potato starch, gives it a soft, gentle thickness. Many homes use bonito or chicken; this is the vegetarian version with kombu-shiitake dashi. It is warming and earthy, with about 5 g of protein per portion from the fried tofu and shiitake. The usual mistake is skipping the salt rub on the taro, which leaves the broth sticky and gluey rather than silky. Chef's tip: cut all the vegetables to the same small size so every spoonful has a bit of everything.

45 min

Japanese Soups

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Dango-jiruDumplings in miso soup

In Oita prefecture on Kyushu, dango-jiru is a grandmother's winter supper: a soft wheat dough is rested, then pulled by hand into long, flat ribbons and dropped straight into a miso soup of taro, burdock, carrot, daikon and mushrooms. Oita cooks usually use mild barley miso and often add pork or chicken; this vegetarian version uses kombu-shiitake dashi and fried tofu instead. A bowl gives about 13 g of protein, from the dumplings, miso and tofu, so it is not high-protein. The common mistake is stretching the dough before it has rested: it springs back and tears. Give it at least 30 minutes. Chef's tip: keep the rested dough pieces in a bowl of water and stretch them with wet hands; they pull out long and thin without breaking.

75 min

Japanese Soups

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Nameko jiruNameko mushroom miso soup

Nameko jiru is one of the most common miso soups in Japan, made in homes from Tohoku to Kyushu for breakfast or dinner, especially in autumn and winter when the small amber nameko mushrooms are cheap. The mushrooms have a natural silky coating that gives the soup a gently thickened, slippery feel, which the Japanese love. Homes usually use bonito dashi; this is the vegetarian version, with kombu and dried shiitake. A bowl has about 7 g of protein, from the tofu and miso. The most common mistake is boiling the soup after the miso goes in: it kills the aroma and turns the miso grainy. Chef's tip: give nameko only a quick rinse in a sieve, and never scrub away the gel; that coating is what makes the soup.

15 min

Japanese Soups

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Sanpei-jiruSalted salmon and root vegetable soup

Sanpei-jiru is a winter soup from Hokkaido, once made by fishing families with salt-cured salmon, cod or herring that kept through the long snows, and still a warming supper there today. Salted fish simmers in kombu broth with daikon, carrot and potato, and the fish's own salt seasons the soup, so it tastes clean, gently briny and sweet from the roots. A bowl has about 22 g of protein from the salmon. The common mistake is skipping the quick scald of the fish: without it the broth tastes fishy and turns murky. Chef's tip: taste before adding any salt; salted salmon varies a lot, and you may need none at all.

50 min

Japanese Soups

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Niku-dofuBeef and tofu simmer

Niku-dofu is a home and izakaya favourite across Japan, especially in winter, when a pot of it comes to the table with rice and miso soup on a weeknight. Thin slices of beef and big blocks of firm tofu simmer with onion and spring onion in a sweet soy and dashi broth until the tofu is stained amber and full of flavour. This is a beef dish; a portion has about 26 g of protein from the beef and tofu. Traditional recipes use sake and mirin; this version leaves them out and uses a little more sugar, so it is alcohol-free. The common mistake is boiling the beef for the whole time, which makes it tough: add it near the end. Chef's tip: press the tofu for 15 minutes first so it soaks up the broth instead of watering it down.

30 min

Japanese Meat

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Kasujiru-style winter soup (alcohol-free)Salmon and vegetable winter soup

In Osaka, Kyoto and Nara, kasujiru is the bowl that appears in the coldest weeks of winter, when sake breweries sell fresh sake lees (sakekasu) and families stir them into miso soup with salmon, daikon, carrot and fried tofu. The lees make it cloudy, creamy and warming. Sake lees still contain some alcohol even after simmering, so this version leaves them out and builds the same creamy body with white miso, a little tahini and soy milk; it is an honest alcohol-free cousin of the traditional dish, which is made with sake lees. A bowl has about 24 g of protein from the salmon, fried tofu, miso and soy milk. The common mistake is boiling once the miso and soy milk are in: it splits and loses its aroma. Chef's tip: whisk the miso and tahini with a ladle of hot broth in a bowl first so they melt in smoothly.

40 min

Japanese Soups

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Buta kimchi (pork and kimchi stir-fry)

Buta kimchi is a Japanese izakaya and home favourite, cooked in Tokyo flats in the time it takes the rice to finish: thin slices of pork belly or shoulder fried until the fat crisps, then tossed with sour, spicy kimchi and onion. This is a pork dish. The common mistake is using fresh, young kimchi; well-fermented, sour kimchi gives the deep flavour, and fresh kimchi just tastes of raw cabbage. Chef's tip: add a splash of the kimchi juice at the very end for an instant sauce.

15 min

Japanese Meat

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Mabo nasu (Japanese mapo aubergine)

Mabo nasu is the Japanese home take on a Sichuan dish, cooked across Japan on weeknights when aubergines are cheap in summer: soft aubergine and minced pork in a glossy, mild sauce of doubanjiang, miso and soy, eaten over white rice. This is a pork dish. The usual mistake is under-cooking the aubergine, which stays spongy and drinks the sauce; fry it until it is collapsing and shiny first. Chef's tip: stir the cornflour slurry in off the heat, then bring it back to a bubble, so it thickens smoothly without lumps.

25 min

Japanese Meat

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Kuri manjuChestnut buns

Made to look like a chestnut, kuri manju (栗まんじゅう) is one of Japan's favourite baked wagashi, a little teardrop of tender, cake-like dough wrapped around sweet white bean paste studded with candied chestnut. The top is glazed twice with egg yolk until it bakes a glossy chestnut brown, and the flat base is dipped in poppy seeds to mimic the pale bottom of a real chestnut. Japanese confectioners sell them all year, but they are most popular in autumn, given as gifts and eaten with green tea. Freshly baked, the dough is slightly firm; after a day in a tin the moisture from the filling softens it, so they are even better the next day. Glazing only once is an easy mistake: the first coat soaks in and looks patchy, so brush, bake briefly and brush again. Chef's tip: dust your hands well with flour as you wrap; this dough is soft and sticky, and handling it with floured fingers is the only way to keep the shell thin and even.

85 min

Japanese Baking

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Octopus sausages (tako-san wiener)

Open a Japanese child's bento almost anywhere in the country and there is a good chance of finding tako-san wiener: small frankfurters with the bottom half cut into legs, which curl out like an octopus when they hit a hot pan. They go in on school-trip days and sports days, often with a tiny sesame-seed face. They contain whatever your sausages contain; check the label for wheat, milk and soya. For children under 5, cut the finished sausages in half lengthwise to avoid a choking risk. Chef's tip: cut the legs only halfway up the sausage, or the head splits off.

10 min

Japanese Meat

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Okosama lunchKetchup rice and mini hamburger plate

Okosama ranchi, the 'little guest's lunch', has been on Japanese family-restaurant menus since the 1930s, and parents recreate it at home for birthdays: a dome of chicken ketchup rice with a paper flag, a small hamburg patty, a couple of breaded prawns and a twist of buttered spaghetti, all on one plate. It is meant to look like a treat, so presentation is half the fun; add a few cherry tomatoes (quartered for small children) and broccoli for colour. This recipe makes four plates and is timed so everything finishes together. It contains egg, milk, gluten and shellfish. Chef's tip: press the rice into a small wet bowl and turn it out for a perfect dome.

80 min

Japanese Meat

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Hayashi rice for toddlersBeef and onion sauce on rice

Hayashi rice, thin slices of beef and sweet onion in a glossy tomato and brown-roux sauce over rice, is a Japanese home and school-lunch favourite that children often love even more than curry. Shop roux blocks are salty, so this version builds the sauce from scratch with butter, flour, tomato and no-salt stock, mild enough for toddlers from a year old, with no wine. It contains milk (butter) and gluten (wheat flour). Chef's tip: cook the onions slowly until deep golden; their sweetness replaces the sugar and salt of a packet roux.

50 min

Japanese Meat

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Japanese strawberry shortcake

In Japan, the 'shortcake' on every birthday table and every Christmas Eve is nothing like the American scone version: it is a tall, cloud-soft sponge filled and covered with lightly sweetened cream and crowned with a ring of strawberries. Children choose it at the cake shop for their birthday, and it is just as good made at home. It contains egg, milk and gluten. Chef's tip: brush each sponge layer with a little plain sugar syrup; it keeps the cake moist without any alcohol.

70 min

Japanese Baking

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HiyajiruChilled miso soup

In Miyazaki, on the hot, humid east coast of Kyushu, farmers have eaten hiyajiru through the summer for centuries: grilled fish and sesame are pounded with barley miso in a mortar, the paste is toasted, then thinned with cold dashi and poured, with ice, over barley rice, with torn tofu, cucumber and shiso. It is cool, savoury and filling, a lunch that revives you in the heat. Eggs are not used; fish and soy are the allergens. A bowl with rice is about 340 kcal. The common mistake is skipping the toasting of the miso paste; it is what gives hiyajiru its deep, roasted flavour. Chef's tip: use day-old cold rice and rinse it briefly; warm, sticky rice turns the cold soup cloudy.

30 min

Japanese Soups

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KakitamajiruEgg drop soup

When the miso pot is empty, or someone in a Japanese home is feeling poorly, kakitamajiru is the soup that comes out: a clear, gently seasoned dashi thickened very slightly with potato starch so that a stream of beaten egg sets into soft, floating ribbons. It is served in lacquer bowls alongside rice and a main dish at an ordinary dinner anywhere in Japan. This version uses vegetarian kombu-shiitake dashi. Eggs are an allergen. A bowl is about 55 kcal. The most common mistake is pouring the egg into soup that is not quite boiling, which makes it cloudy; the broth must be bubbling when the egg goes in. Chef's tip: pour the egg through the tines of a fork in a thin stream, moving round the pan; it gives the finest, fluffiest strands.

17 min

Japanese Soups

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Rei-shabuChilled pork salad

In the heat of a Tokyo August, nobody wants a hot frying pan, and rei-shabu, "cold shabu-shabu", is what appears on dinner tables and in set lunches: paper-thin slices of pork loin or shoulder poached briefly in barely simmering water, cooled, and piled on a crisp salad of lettuce, cucumber and tomato with ponzu or a sesame sauce. It is light and refreshing. This is a pork dish. A portion is about 280 kcal. The most common mistake is plunging the cooked pork into iced water, which makes the fat set hard and the meat tough; let it cool on a sieve instead. Chef's tip: keep the water just below the boil, around 80 °C, with a splash of sake; the pork stays tender instead of going grey and stringy.

25 min

Japanese Meat

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Shojin dashiKombu and shiitake stock

Zen temples in Kyoto and Kamakura build their whole cuisine on this stock: kombu kelp and dried shiitake soaked in cold water until the liquid turns golden and deeply savoury, with no bonito at all. It is the vegan dashi for miso soup, simmered vegetables, noodle broths and dipping sauces, and every vegetarian Japanese recipe on this site can use it. The common mistake is boiling the kombu, which releases slime and bitterness; it should never go beyond a gentle simmer, and taking it out just before boiling gives the cleanest flavour. Chef's tip: soak overnight in the fridge (mizudashi) for the best, roundest flavour with no effort, then keep the softened shiitake for a simmered dish.

20 min

Japanese Basics

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Kenchin jiruRoot vegetable and tofu soup

This hearty, clear soup is said to have been created at Kenchō-ji, the great Zen temple in Kamakura, where monks fried scraps of root vegetables and crumbled tofu in sesame oil before simmering them, so nothing was wasted. Today it is a winter staple in Kanto homes, especially in Ibaraki and Kanagawa: soft daikon, carrot, burdock, taro and konnyaku in a soy-seasoned kombu broth, nutty with sesame. A spoon of sake goes in at the end and simmers off; the note gives an alcohol-free swap. The common mistake is skipping the frying stage; it is the sesame oil that gives kenchin its richness. Chef's tip: tear the konnyaku and tofu with your hands instead of cutting, so the rough surfaces catch more broth.

40 min

Japanese Soups

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