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680 recipes

ErdäpfelstrudelSavoury potato strudel

Austrians, especially in the Mühlviertel of Upper Austria and the Waldviertel, make savoury strudels as often as sweet ones, and Erdäpfelstrudel is a farmhouse favourite for a meatless Friday or a cold evening. Thin pastry wraps a filling of potatoes, fried onion, sour cream, marjoram and parsley, baked until crisp and golden and sliced with a green salad or a dill and sour-cream dip. Bought filo makes it easy at home. The mistake to avoid is a wet filling, which turns the pastry soggy underneath. Chef's tip: cool the filling completely before rolling; warm filling makes the layers stick and tear.

90 min

Austrian Vegetarian

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Sambal bawangGarlic chilli sambal

Surabaya's ayam penyet stalls and the pecel lele tents along East Javanese roads serve sambal bawang in the stone mortar it was pounded in, so diners can scrape it straight onto fried chicken, tempeh or catfish. Raw chillies and plenty of garlic are crushed with salt and a little sugar, then hot oil is poured over, which tames the garlic's bite and makes the whole mortar crackle and smell toasty. It is coarse, oily and brutally hot. Chef's tip: the oil must be properly hot, just beginning to smoke; lukewarm oil leaves the garlic raw and sharp instead of nutty.

15 min

Indonesian Chutneys & Dips

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Lapis legitThousand-layer spice cake

Indonesian Chinese and Dutch-descended families bake lapis legit for Christmas, Imlek and Lebaran, and in Jakarta a whole cake is a prized gift that can cost a small fortune. Rich batter of butter and a great many egg yolks, scented with cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and cardamom, is grilled one thin layer at a time, giving perfect tree-ring stripes when sliced. It takes an afternoon, but it is mostly patience. Slice it thinly; it is very rich. Chef's tip: press each layer gently with a flat spoon to burst air bubbles before adding the next; skipping it leaves holes and the layers separate when cut.

180 min

Indonesian Baking

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Lemper ayamSticky rice rolls with chicken

Lemper turns up in every Javanese snack box, from office meetings to selamatan prayers: a log of savoury coconut sticky rice wrapped round chicken shredded and cooked down with coriander, lemongrass and coconut milk, then rolled tight in banana leaf. Some are grilled afterwards for a smoky leaf flavour. They make a filling mid-morning snack and travel well. Chef's tip: cook the chicken filling until it is quite dry; a saucy filling soaks into the rice and the rolls fall apart when unwrapped.

90 min

Indonesian Snacks & Starters

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Sayur labu siamChayote and tofu coconut curry

On Lebaran morning in Java and Jakarta, sayur labu siam is the mild, soupy vegetable ladled over cut ketupat beside the richer opor and sambal goreng. Crisp-tender chayote, long beans and fried tofu simmer in a thin, pale-gold coconut broth fragrant with turmeric, galangal and salam leaf; it also makes an easy weeknight lontong sayur. This version is vegan, while many home cooks add a little terasi and dried shrimp to the spice paste. Chef's tip: let the broth simmer gently after the coconut milk goes in; a hard boil splits it into oily curds.

40 min

Indonesian Curries

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BajigurCoconut palm sugar drink

Bajigur carts in Bogor and Bandung come out in the late afternoon, steaming pots of coconut milk with palm sugar, ginger and pandan served alongside boiled peanuts, cassava and sweet potato. It is creamy and caramel-sweet with a warm ginger finish, a drink to wrap your hands round on a cool highland evening. Some sellers add a spoon of coffee; this version leaves it out. Chef's tip: keep it below a boil once the coconut milk is in; boiling makes it grainy and an oily film forms on top.

20 min

Indonesian Drinks

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Wedang jaheHot ginger drink

When the evening rain comes in over Yogyakarta, angkringan street stalls start ladling out wedang jahe, a fiery hot drink of grilled, bruised ginger and lemongrass simmered with palm sugar. It is sipped slowly from glasses alongside sticky rice snacks and fried tofu, and families make it at home whenever the weather turns cool. Chef's tip: grill or dry-roast the ginger until scorched before bruising it; raw ginger gives a sharper but flatter drink, without the smoky depth.

20 min

Indonesian Drinks

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CombroCassava balls with spicy filling

Combro comes from the Sundanese 'oncom di jero', oncom inside, and that hidden centre is the point: crumbled fermented oncom fried with chilli, shallot and a little palm sugar, wrapped in grated cassava and fried until golden. Families in Garut and Bogor eat them warm with sweet tea in the late afternoon, and they appear at village arisan gatherings by the tray. Oncom is hard to find outside Indonesia; crumbled tempeh gives a similar nutty, savoury filling. Chef's tip: squeeze the grated cassava hard in a cloth; if it stays wet, the balls split open in the oil and the filling leaks out.

45 min

Indonesian Snacks & Starters

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Sambal bajakCooked chilli sambal

In Solo and Yogyakarta warung kitchens a jar of sambal bajak sits beside the rice pot, ready for fried tempeh, boiled greens or a plain omelette at any meal of the day. Red chillies, shallots and candlenuts are blitzed and then fried slowly in plenty of oil with palm sugar and tamarind until the paste turns brick-red, glossy and jammy, mellow rather than raw-hot. This version is vegan: a spoon of salted fermented soybean paste brings the savoury depth that Javanese cooks usually get from toasted terasi (shrimp paste); swap 1 tsp of terasi back in if you eat it. Kept under its layer of oil, it lasts two weeks in the fridge. Chef's tip: the common mistake is stopping too soon; a pale, watery bajak tastes harsh and spoils quickly, so keep frying until the oil splits clear away from the paste.

45 min

Indonesian Chutneys & Dips

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Kue cubitMini soft pancakes

Outside Jakarta's primary schools at home time, kue cubit vendors work a cast-iron pan of tiny scalloped hollows, scooping out the bite-sized cakes with a pick, the 'pinch' (cubit) of the name. The fashion is to serve them setengah matang, half-cooked, so the tops are still soft and molten under a shake of chocolate sprinkles. A poffertjes or æbleskiver pan works well at home. Chef's tip: resist turning the heat up; a hot pan burns the base before the middle rises, so keep it medium-low and cover briefly to set the tops.

25 min

Indonesian Snacks & Starters

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CirengFried tapioca snacks

The name is Sundanese shorthand for 'fried tapioca', and in Bandung cireng is sold from carts outside schools and campuses, eaten piping hot from a paper cone. A garlicky scalded tapioca dough is shaped into flat ovals and fried until the outside is crisp and blistered while the inside stays stretchy and mochi-like. The dipping sauce is a quick rujak of palm sugar, tamarind and chilli. Chef's tip: use truly boiling water to scald the starch; with merely hot water the dough stays crumbly and the cireng turn hard as stones once fried.

30 min

Indonesian Snacks & Starters

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Sambal roaSmoked fish sambal

Manado families in North Sulawesi keep sambal roa in the cupboard the way others keep jam, and visitors leave with jars of it as a souvenir. Ikan roa, a garfish split and smoked on bamboo racks until dry, is flaked and fried with a mountain of chillies, shallots and lemongrass into a deep, smoky relish that turns plain rice or tinutuan porridge into a meal. Outside Indonesia, smoked mackerel gives a similar result. Chef's tip: pick through the fish carefully for fine bones before frying; once it is mixed into the sambal they are almost impossible to find.

45 min

Indonesian Chutneys & Dips

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Sambal goreng atiBeef liver in chilli coconut sauce

Next to opor ayam on the Lebaran table in Java sits a bowl of sambal goreng ati: cubes of beef liver and fried potato cooked in a sweet-hot red chilli sauce loosened with coconut milk and scented with galangal and lime leaf. It is rich, a little sticky and meant to be eaten in small spoonfuls with ketupat. Some cooks add fried quail eggs or petai beans. Chef's tip: blanch the liver in boiling water first and cook it right through in the sauce; underdone liver is unsafe, and boiling it too long beforehand makes it dry and grainy.

60 min

Indonesian Meat

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Lumpia SemarangBamboo shoot spring rolls

Semarang's lumpia carts trace their recipe back to a 19th-century Chinese-Javanese couple, and today the city's Gang Lombok and Pemuda Street sellers still roll them to order. The filling is young bamboo shoot stir-fried with prawns, egg and garlic, giving a juicy, faintly sweet crunch inside a crisp wrapper. They are eaten as a snack or light lunch with a thick garlic-palm sugar sauce, pickled cucumber, spring onion and chillies. Chicken can replace the prawns. Chef's tip: canned bamboo shoots must be boiled and drained first; skipping this leaves a sour, tinny smell through the whole roll.

75 min

Indonesian Snacks & Starters

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Getuk lindriSteamed cassava sweets

Magelang is the getuk capital of Central Java, and market stalls there pile up these soft cassava cakes in stripes of pink, green and white, cut into slices and showered with grated coconut. Cassava is steamed, pounded with palm sugar or white sugar and a little salt, then pressed through a mincer into ribbons (lindri) or simply rolled into a log. It is eaten in the morning with tea or as an afternoon jajan pasar. Chef's tip: mash the cassava while it is steaming hot and remove every stringy core; cold cassava turns lumpy and won't come together smoothly.

45 min

Indonesian Desserts

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Sambal kecapChilli and shallot soy sambal

Satay sellers in Jakarta and Madura hand out sambal kecap in little saucers, and at home in Java it gets spooned over fried tofu, grilled corn or a bowl of soto when there's no time to pound a proper sambal. It takes five minutes: raw bird's-eye chillies, shallot and tomato are sliced into glossy, treacle-sweet kecap manis with a squeeze of lime. The result is sticky, sweet, sharp and very hot all at once. Chef's tip: don't make it hours ahead; the shallots wilt and the lime turns bitter, so slice everything just before the food comes off the grill.

5 min

Indonesian Chutneys & Dips

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Opor ayamChicken in coconut milk

Ask anyone in Java what they eat on the first morning of Lebaran and the answer is opor ayam with ketupat: chicken simmered slowly in a creamy, ivory coconut sauce perfumed with coriander, lemongrass, galangal and salam leaf, rich but not at all fiery. Families cook a big pot the night before so the flavours deepen, then serve it with sambal goreng ati and crackers. For a vegetarian version, use fried tofu and hard-boiled eggs. Chef's tip: toast the candlenuts and coriander before grinding; raw, they make the sauce taste flat and slightly bitter.

75 min

Indonesian Chicken

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Bakwan sayurVegetable fritters

Gorengan carts across Java fry bakwan sayur from mid-afternoon, and office workers and students buy them by the paper bag, eating each crisp, lacy fritter with a raw green bird's-eye chilli bitten alongside. Shredded cabbage, carrot, bean sprouts and spring onion are held together with just enough garlicky batter to set into craggy, golden-edged rounds. Serve them hot with sambal kecap or with a bowl of soto. Chef's tip: the classic mistake is too much batter, which makes heavy, doughy fritters; the vegetables should be barely coated, with batter just clinging between the shreds.

30 min

Indonesian Snacks & Starters

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WajikSticky rice palm sugar cake

Wajik means diamond, the shape it is cut into for Javanese weddings, Lebaran open houses and the trays carried to a family's new baby. Glutinous rice is steamed, then folded through a bubbling caramel of palm sugar, coconut milk and pandan until every grain is glossy and the mass pulls away from the wok. Pressed and cooled, it slices into chewy, toffee-brown pieces that keep for days. Chef's tip: keep stirring once the rice goes into the syrup; walking away for even a minute lets the sugar scorch on the bottom and the whole batch tastes bitter.

75 min

Indonesian Desserts

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KetupatRice cakes in coconut leaf pouches

On the eve of Idul Fitri, kitchens and mosque courtyards across Indonesia fill with people weaving janur, pale young coconut leaves, into diamond-shaped pouches; filled loosely with rice and boiled for hours, they swell into dense, faintly grassy cakes. Sliced, ketupat is served on Lebaran morning under opor ayam, sayur labu siam and sambal goreng. If you can't get coconut leaves, ready-woven casings are sold frozen in Asian shops, or you can use the bag method in the last step. Chef's tip: fill the pouches only a third to half full; packed tight, the rice has no room to swell and the centre stays hard and raw.

260 min

Indonesian Rice & Grains

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MisroCassava palm sugar fritters

In West Java combro and misro are sold side by side, savoury and sweet; misro's name means 'sweet inside', and biting through the crisp shell releases a trickle of melted palm sugar into the chewy grated cassava. Gorengan sellers in Sumedang and Bandung fry them in the afternoon and they vanish with glasses of hot tea. They need only cassava, coconut, salt and gula aren. Chef's tip: let them rest for two minutes before eating; the sugar centre is far hotter than the shell and is the most common burnt tongue in Java.

40 min

Indonesian Snacks & Starters

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Tahu isiStuffed fried tofu

Bandung commuters and Jakarta schoolchildren grab tahu isi from roadside gorengan stalls on the way home, biting into the crisp batter and the soft, peppery vegetable filling with a fresh green chilli. Squares of fried tofu are slit open, packed with stir-fried cabbage, carrot and bean sprouts, then dipped in a light garlic batter and fried again. They are just as good at room temperature for an afternoon snack. Chef's tip: let the filling cool and squeeze out its juice before stuffing; a wet filling steams inside the tofu and makes the batter slide off in the oil.

45 min

Indonesian Snacks & Starters

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Risoles sayurVegetable crêpe rolls

A Dutch colonial snack that never left, risoles fill the glass cabinets of Jakarta bakeries and the snack boxes handed out at every Javanese meeting, wedding and pengajian. Thin crêpes are wrapped round a creamy white-sauce ragout of carrot, potato, beans and sweetcorn, then crumbed and fried until golden and shatteringly crisp. The vegetable version is the most common; meat versions add chicken or smoked beef. Serve with fresh green chillies or chilli sauce. Chef's tip: chill the ragout until firm before rolling; warm, runny filling soaks the crêpes and makes them burst in the oil.

75 min

Indonesian Snacks & Starters

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Wedang uwuhSpiced herbal infusion

The name means 'rubbish drink', because a glass looks like a jumble of twigs and leaves, but around the royal tombs at Imogiri, south of Yogyakarta, wedang uwuh is a point of pride. Chips of sappan wood stain hot water a deep ruby red, while ginger, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg leaf and rock sugar give a sweet, woody spice. It is sold by roadside warung as a dry pack to brew at home. Chef's tip: steep it, don't boil it for long; sappan wood turns from red to a muddy brown and tastes tannic if cooked hard.

15 min

Indonesian Drinks

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