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371 recipes

SobrebarrigaBraised beef flank in tomato sauce

Sobrebarriga is a Bogotá Sunday lunch: beef flank (the thin covering of the belly, which is what the name means) braised for hours with beer, onion and herbs until it can be cut with a spoon, then finished in a rich hogao of tomato and onion. Families in the Andean highlands serve it with salt potatoes, rice and a slice of avocado. The common mistake is hurrying the braise: flank stays stringy until it has cooked for at least two and a half hours. Simmer it gently until a fork slides in easily. The beer cooks for a long time, so most of the alcohol is driven off but not all; for an alcohol-free version use beef stock with 1 tbsp of brown sugar. Chef's tip: after braising, brush the meat with mustard and give it 15 minutes in a hot oven for a browned, slightly crisp top.

200 min

Colombian Meat

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Huevos pericosScrambled eggs with tomato and onion

Huevos pericos are the everyday breakfast of Colombian homes from Medellín to Bogotá, made before school and work and eaten with a warm arepa and a cup of hot chocolate or tinto coffee. The name comes from the parakeet (perico), for the flecks of green spring onion and red tomato through the yellow egg. The secret is a quick hogao-style base: the onion and tomato are softened first, then the eggs are folded through over a low heat so they stay creamy. The common mistake is high heat, which turns the eggs dry and rubbery. Cook them slowly and take them off while still glossy. If you are cooking for anyone pregnant, a young child or an older person, cook until fully set. Chef's tip: use the long green tops of the spring onion as well as the white; Colombian cebolla larga is all about that mild green flavour.

15 min

Colombian Breakfast & Brunch

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Bife de chorizoGrilled sirloin steak with chimichurri

Bife de chorizo, despite the name, has nothing to do with sausage: it is the thick sirloin (strip loin) steak that every parrilla in Buenos Aires grills, from the steakhouses of Palermo to the roadside grills of the pampas, and it is the Saturday-night order for anyone who wants beef and nothing else. It is cut at least 3 cm thick, seasoned only with coarse salt and grilled over hot embers, then served with chimichurri and a simple tomato and onion salad. The common mistake is cooking it straight from the fridge and turning it constantly; it greys outside and stays raw in the middle. Bring it to room temperature for 30 minutes and turn it only once. Chef's tip: salt the steak with coarse salt only just before it goes on the grill, and cut into it only after a 5-minute rest.

55 min

Argentinian Meat

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Tarta pascualinaSpinach and egg pie

Tarta pascualina came to Buenos Aires and Montevideo with Ligurian immigrants, and it is still baked for Easter (Pascua, hence the name), though most porteños now buy or make it any weekday for a light supper with a tomato salad. A crisp, olive-oil crust holds chard or spinach bound with ricotta and cheese, with whole eggs baked into hollows so every slice shows a ring of yolk. The usual mistake is not squeezing the greens: the filling floods and the base goes soggy. Wring them in a clean tea towel until no more water drips. Hard cheeses such as Parmesan are usually made with animal rennet; use a vegetarian hard cheese if you prefer. Chef's tip: bake the tart on the lowest shelf on a hot baking sheet so the bottom crust browns as well as the top.

90 min

Argentinian Vegetarian

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Cazuela de mariscosCoconut seafood stew

In Cartagena's old walled city and the beach kiosks of Bocagrande, cazuela de mariscos is the seafood dish to share on a hot afternoon: a rich stew of fish, prawns, squid and mussels in coconut milk and cream, coloured with a little tomato and served with coconut rice and fried green plantain (patacones). The common mistake is boiling the seafood in the sauce until it toughens. Build the sauce first, then add the seafood in order of cooking time for just a few minutes. Discard any mussels that are open and do not close when tapped, and any that stay shut after cooking. Chef's tip: a splash of the mussel cooking liquid stirred in at the end gives the cazuela its sea-salty depth without extra salt.

55 min

Colombian Fish

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Sancocho de gallinaChicken soup with yuca and plantain

Sancocho de gallina is the soup Colombians cook in a huge pot for Sunday family gatherings, river outings in the Valle del Cauca and New Year's Day, often over a wood fire. A hen is simmered with corn on the cob, yuca, green plantain and potatoes until the starchy vegetables thicken the broth, then everything is served in deep bowls with rice, avocado and ají on the side. This version uses a whole chicken, which cooks faster than a laying hen. Yuca (cassava) must always be fully cooked until soft right through, never eaten raw or underdone. The common mistake is adding all the vegetables at once: the potato turns to mush before the yuca is tender. Add them in stages. Chef's tip: break the green plantain into chunks with your hands instead of cutting it; the rough edges release starch and give the broth its body.

115 min

Colombian Soups

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Canelones de verduraSpinach and ricotta crêpe cannelloni

In Argentina, Sunday lunch at the nonna's house in Rosario or Buenos Aires often means canelones, a legacy of Italian immigrants made the Río de la Plata way: thin crêpes instead of pasta tubes, rolled around chard and ricotta, then baked under tomato sauce and béchamel. They are often served on the 29th of the month or for Christmas too. The common mistake is thick crêpes: they turn stodgy. The batter should be as thin as single cream and the pancakes almost see-through. Hard cheeses are usually made with animal rennet; use a vegetarian hard cheese if you prefer. Chef's tip: roll the canelones and chill them for an hour before saucing; they hold their shape better in the oven.

80 min

Argentinian Vegetarian

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Pizza de muzzarellaThick-crust mozzarella pizza

The pizza de muzzarella, or simply muzza, is the pride of Buenos Aires' old pizzerías along Avenida Corrientes, eaten standing at the counter after the theatre, often with a slice of fainá on top. Unlike a Neapolitan pizza it has a thick, soft, bready base baked in a round metal pan, a thin smear of oregano tomato sauce and a deep layer of mozzarella that bubbles and browns, finished with green olives. The common mistake is using fresh mozzarella balls: they release water and the pizza swims. Use firm, low-moisture mozzarella grated or sliced thick. Many mozzarellas use animal rennet; choose a vegetarian one if you prefer. Chef's tip: give the dough a second rise in the oiled pan, so the base bakes airy inside and fried-crisp underneath.

45 min

Argentinian Pizza

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Tostado de jamón y quesoPressed ham and cheese sandwich

The tostado is what Buenos Aires orders in a café at merienda or as a light late dinner, and what Uruguayan kids get made at home: thin crustless pan de miga layered with cooked pork ham and mild cheese, buttered outside and pressed until crisp and oozing. The common mistake is too much filling; this sandwich is meant to be thin, so the cheese melts before the bread burns. Chef's tip: if you have no sandwich press, weigh it down in the pan with a second heavy pan so it toasts flat and even.

9 min

Argentinian Fast Food

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Revuelto de zapallitosCourgettes scrambled with egg and cheese

Revuelto de zapallitos is a weeknight dinner in Buenos Aires homes and all over Argentina in summer, when the little round courgettes called zapallitos are cheap: diced courgette and onion cooked down in oil, scrambled with eggs and finished with grated cheese. It is eaten with bread or as a side to a salad. Grated hard cheese like reggianito or Parmesan is usually made with animal rennet, so use a vegetarian hard cheese for a vegetarian dinner. The common mistake is adding the eggs before the courgettes have given up their water, which turns the scramble wet and grey. Chef's tip: salt the courgettes as they go in, so they release their juice early and it cooks away.

15 min

Argentinian Vegetarian

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GarbaCassava couscous with fried tuna

Garba is the cheap, filling lunch and evening meal of Abidjan's street stalls, the garbadromes, where students and taxi drivers queue for a heap of steamed attiéké (fermented cassava couscous) with chunks of fried tuna, raw onion, tomato and a fierce dose of chilli, all eaten with the fingers. Using ready frozen or packaged attiéké makes it a 15-minute dinner at home. The common mistake is frying the tuna in small batches in barely any oil, so it steams grey instead of browning. Chef's tip: pour a spoon of the hot frying oil over the attiéké before serving, as the garba sellers do; it is what makes it taste right.

15 min

Ivorian Fish

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Marara (cooked version)Offal salad with peanut butter

On the morning of Eid al-Adha in Sudan, the fresh liver, lung, tripe and kidney of the sacrificed lamb are chopped and dressed with onion, lime, hot chilli and peanut butter and eaten straight away as marara, traditionally raw. Raw offal can carry harmful bacteria and parasites, so this version briefly cooks the liver and kidney and uses pre-cooked tripe, then dresses them warm so the tangy, nutty, fiery flavours stay the same. The traditional raw dish is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. Chef's tip: chop the cooked offal small and dress it while still warm so it soaks up the lime.

40 min

Sudanese Meat

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Sopa de guandú con carne saladaPigeon pea soup with salted beef

On Colombia's Caribbean coast, and above all in Barranquilla around Carnival and Holy Week, families cook big pots of sopa de guandú, a hearty soup of pigeon peas and salted dried beef with yam, yuca and green plantain, flavoured with cumin, garlic and spring onion. It is eaten as a full meal with white rice, avocado and a little hot sauce, ideal to recover after the parades. The common mistake is not soaking the salted beef, which makes the whole pot far too salty. Chef's tip: grate a little of the green plantain into the broth; it thickens the soup naturally.

150 min

Colombian Soups

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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Viudo de pescadoFish steamed in banana leaves

Along the Magdalena River and in Huila and Tolima, Colombian families make viudo de pescado for Semana Santa: river fish (bocachico, capaz or nicuro, here any firm white fish) seasoned with hogao, then steamed in banana leaves on top of a pot of cassava, green plantain, potato and corn, so the vegetables cook in the broth and the fish in the steam. It is served together in big bowls with lime and ají. Chef's tip: cut the vegetables into similar-sized chunks so they all cook in the same time.

90 min

Colombian Fish

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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Chipa so'oCheese bread with spiced beef

In Paraguay, families bake chipa in the clay tatakua ovens on Holy Wednesday so there is food for Thursday and Good Friday, when cooking stops. Chipa so'o ('chipa with meat') is a cassava-starch and cheese bread wrapped around a little filling of minced beef cooked with onion and egg, then baked until crisp outside and chewy within. It is naturally gluten free. Chef's tip: knead the dough until it no longer cracks at the edges when pressed; dry dough splits around the filling.

90 min

Paraguayan Breads & Parathas

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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Lengua a la vinagretaBeef tongue with vinaigrette

Argentina's Nochebuena is a hot summer night, so the table is full of cold dishes, and lengua a la vinagreta is one of the classics: beef tongue simmered until tender, peeled, sliced and covered with a sharp vinaigrette of parsley, garlic, red pepper, onion and chopped hard-boiled egg. It is made a day ahead and served chilled with vitel toné and Russian salad. Chef's tip: peel the tongue while it is still hot, as the skin comes away easily then and clings once it cools.

210 min

Argentinian Meat

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Turrón de maníPeanut nougat

On an Argentine Christmas Eve, after midnight toasts, the 'mesa dulce' appears with pan dulce, garrapiñadas and turrón de maní: a chewy white nougat of honey, sugar, whipped egg white and roasted peanuts, often set between two sheets of rice paper. Families make it in the days before Nochebuena. The egg white is cooked by the hot syrup. It is gluten free if you use gluten-free wafer paper or none. Chef's tip: work fast once the syrup is in, as the nougat stiffens as it cools and gets hard to spread.

60 min

Argentinian Desserts

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Quinotos en almíbar (Argentine kumquats in syrup)

In Buenos Aires and the river provinces of the Litoral, kumquat trees ripen in the middle of winter, between June and August, and the fruit goes straight into jars of syrup. Grandmothers' pantries held quinotos for the whole year, brought out for birthdays and long Sunday lunches. Each little fruit turns glossy orange and translucent, with a soft, bittersweet skin and a sharp, juicy centre. Spoon them over vanilla ice cream, serve them with a slice of fresh cheese in the style of postre vigilante, or eat them straight from the jar. Many bar menus offer them steeped in spirits; this version keeps only the syrup. Naturally egg-free, the quinotos rely on sugar syrup to preserve them, while pectin from the peel gives the syrup a light, jammy body. Chef's tip: blanch the fruit three times from cold water; the common mistake is skipping this, which leaves the skins tough and bitter.

120 min

Argentinian Desserts

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Dulce de papayuelaMountain papaya in spiced syrup

Papayuela is the small, fragrant mountain papaya that grows in the cool highlands of Boyacá in Colombia. Cooked slowly in panela syrup with cloves and cinnamon, it becomes a glossy, amber dulce that Boyacá families set out during Holy Week and again at Christmas, often with a slice of fresh white cheese or cuajada. It is vegan and gluten free. Firm, slightly underripe ordinary papaya, or babaco, makes a good stand-in. Chef's tip: blanch the fruit briefly first, then drain it; this removes the bitter latex and lets it soak up the syrup.

90 min

Colombian Desserts

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Manjar blanco del ValleMilk and rice sweet

In the Valle del Cauca around Cali, Christmas means stirring manjar blanco: whole milk, sugar and a little ground rice cooked down for hours, traditionally in a big copper pan (paila) over a wood fire, until it turns into a thick, pale-caramel paste. It is served in totumo gourd bowls with buñuelos and natilla, or with a slice of fresh cheese. It is gluten free and keeps a week in the fridge. Chef's tip: soak and blend the rice to a fine paste first, which gives manjar blanco its smooth body without lumps.

225 min

Colombian Desserts

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