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Jaja begina (Balinese sun-dried rice crackers)

Jaja begina are the round rice crackers that fill Balinese offering towers for Galungan; once the prayers are said, the crackers come home as a crunchy snack for everyone. Steamed glutinous rice is pressed into thin discs and dried in the sun for days until rock hard, and then a quick fry makes them puff up, turn pale gold and become light and crisp. A thread of warm palm sugar syrup over the top makes them sweet and sticky. Without strong sun, a low oven does the drying in an afternoon. Chef's tip: make a big batch of the dried discs; stored airtight they keep for months, and you can fry a few whenever you like.

120 min

Indonesian Snacks & Starters

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Śliwki w czekoladzie (chocolate-coated prunes with walnuts)

Boxes of chocolate prunes are a classic Polish gift: brought to grandmothers at Christmas, set out on the Wigilia table among the twelve dishes, and passed round on name days. Plump smoked or soft prunes from the south of the country are best. Each one hides a walnut half, so you get chewy, slightly tart fruit, a crunchy bitter nut and a snap of dark chocolate in one bite. Serve them with coffee or tea after a big meal. Nothing here ever needed egg: the prune itself holds the nut, and chocolate sets around it as it cools. Older recipes soak the prunes in spirits; here they are alcohol-free, plumped in warm orange juice instead, which also brightens the flavour. Use a dark chocolate made without milk and the sweets are vegan. Chef's tip: dry the soaked prunes very well before dipping; the common mistake is leaving them damp, and even a few drops of juice will make melted chocolate seize and turn grainy.

55 min

Polish Desserts

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Krówki (Polish milk fudge)

Krówki, 'little cows', are the sweets Polish children grow up with: wrapped in paper with a cow on it, handed out at name days and school parties, and bought by the bag all year round. Fresh ones have a thin, sugary crust that crumbles at the edges while the middle stays soft and almost runny, with a deep taste of cooked milk and butter, close to dulce de leche. Eat them with black tea or coffee, or chop them into ice cream. They are naturally egg-free: milk and cream are boiled with sugar until the milk solids caramelise and the mixture reaches the soft-ball stage, then beating it as it cools starts fine sugar crystals that set the fudge and give that crumbly crust. A spoonful of honey adds its own flavour and keeps the centre soft. Chef's tip: stop beating as soon as the mixture loses its shine and starts to thicken; beating too long is the common mistake, and the fudge then sets in the pan before you can pour it.

175 min

Polish Desserts

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Tum ayam (Balinese steamed spiced chicken parcels)

Tum ayam are small banana-leaf parcels made in Bali for Galungan and family ceremonies, when they appear on festive plates and in offerings alongside lawar and satay; wrapping the food in leaf is part of how Balinese cooking shows care for what is offered. Minced chicken is mixed with cooked base genep, a spoonful of coconut cream and shredded lime leaf, then folded into leaves and steamed until firm and juicy. The banana leaf gives a gentle, tea-like aroma, and the filling is spicy, fragrant and moist, like a soft spiced pâté. Serve the parcels with rice and a vegetable dish, letting everyone unwrap their own. Chef's tip: cool the fried paste completely before it meets the raw chicken, so the mixture stays cold and safe and the parcels hold their shape.

60 min

Indonesian Chicken

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Uszka z grzybamiMushroom dumplings

Wigilia, the Polish Christmas Eve supper, starts when the first star appears and is traditionally meatless, and its first course is clear red barszcz with uszka floating in it. These are tiny dumplings folded into 'little ears' and filled with dried forest mushrooms (usually ceps) and fried onion. They are fiddly, so families make them together in the days before and freeze them. Serve 6–8 in each bowl of hot beetroot broth. Chef's tip: save the mushroom soaking water and add it to the barszcz, as it carries much of the forest flavour.

120 min

Polish Pasta & Noodles

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Lontong Cap Go MehRice cakes with chicken curries

Lontong Cap Go Meh is the Peranakan Chinese feast for Cap Go Meh, the fifteenth and last night of Imlek (Chinese New Year) in Java, where Chinese and Javanese traditions meet on one plate. It is not the everyday lontong sayur, which is simply rice cakes in a vegetable curry: this is the full festive spread, with rice cakes, yellow opor chicken in coconut milk, sayur lodeh vegetables, eggs simmered in the opor, and spicy sambal goreng potatoes, all ladled into one bowl. The long rice cakes are said to stand for long life, the golden opor for prosperity and the round eggs for luck. Rich, creamy, sweet and spicy all at once, it needs nothing more than krupuk and fried shallots. Chef's tip: cook the lontong a day ahead and chill it overnight, so it slices cleanly and the feast day is calmer.

150 min

Indonesian Rice & Grains

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Turrón de maníPeanut nougat

On an Argentine Christmas Eve, after midnight toasts, the 'mesa dulce' appears with pan dulce, garrapiñadas and turrón de maní: a chewy white nougat of honey, sugar, whipped egg white and roasted peanuts, often set between two sheets of rice paper. Families make it in the days before Nochebuena. The egg white is cooked by the hot syrup. It is gluten free if you use gluten-free wafer paper or none. Chef's tip: work fast once the syrup is in, as the nougat stiffens as it cools and gets hard to spread.

60 min

Argentinian Desserts

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Quinotos en almíbar (Argentine kumquats in syrup)

In Buenos Aires and the river provinces of the Litoral, kumquat trees ripen in the middle of winter, between June and August, and the fruit goes straight into jars of syrup. Grandmothers' pantries held quinotos for the whole year, brought out for birthdays and long Sunday lunches. Each little fruit turns glossy orange and translucent, with a soft, bittersweet skin and a sharp, juicy centre. Spoon them over vanilla ice cream, serve them with a slice of fresh cheese in the style of postre vigilante, or eat them straight from the jar. Many bar menus offer them steeped in spirits; this version keeps only the syrup. Naturally egg-free, the quinotos rely on sugar syrup to preserve them, while pectin from the peel gives the syrup a light, jammy body. Chef's tip: blanch the fruit three times from cold water; the common mistake is skipping this, which leaves the skins tough and bitter.

120 min

Argentinian Desserts

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Be celeng base manis (Balinese sweet soy pork)

Be celeng base manis means "pork in sweet spices" in Balinese, and it is cooked in Hindu households around Galungan, when pork is prepared on Penampahan, the day before the festival, and shared with family and the temple. Chunks of pork shoulder are braised slowly with plenty of shallots, garlic, ginger and galangal in kecap manis, the thick Indonesian sweet soy sauce, until the meat is soft and the sauce has turned dark, sticky and glossy. It is sweet, savoury and only gently warm, so it suits everyone at the table. Serve it with steamed rice, a crisp vegetable such as long beans and some sambal for those who want heat. Chef's tip: let the sauce reduce only in the last 15 minutes, uncovered, so it coats the pork without burning.

95 min

Indonesian Meat

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MoczkaGingerbread in dried fruit compote

Moczka is the Christmas Eve dessert of Upper Silesia in southern Poland, a thick, dark, spiced mixture of honey gingerbread dissolved in dried-fruit compote, then loaded with almonds, walnuts, raisins, figs and prunes. Each family has its own version; many add dark beer to the base, which this one leaves out, but adults may stir 100 ml dark beer into the compote while it simmers. It is eaten cold from small bowls and keeps for several days. Chef's tip: use dry, slightly stale gingerbread, which dissolves into a smooth sauce, while fresh cake turns to lumps.

50 min

Polish Desserts

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Urutan (Balinese spiced pork sausage)

Urutan is the Balinese pork sausage made for Galungan: pork and pork fat are chopped with a turmeric-rich base genep, stuffed into casings and hung to dry in the breeze, so that the festival meat lasts for days after the feast. The finished sausage is golden yellow inside, garlicky, peppery and gently sour from drying, and it is always fried or grilled before eating. At home, make it either as a fresh sausage kept in the fridge, or air-dry it in the fridge with curing salt for the firmer, tangy traditional style. Serve slices with rice, sambal matah and a fried egg, or with drinks as a snack. Chef's tip: keep the meat, fat and equipment ice-cold throughout; warm fat smears and the sausage turns crumbly and greasy.

240 min

Indonesian Meat

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Jaja uli (Balinese pounded sticky rice cake)

Jaja uli is one of the rice cakes that Balinese families make in the days before Galungan, when the island celebrates the victory of dharma over adharma and the ancestors come home; it is stacked into the towering banten offerings and then shared and eaten. Glutinous rice is steamed, soaked in hot salted coconut milk, steamed again and then pounded until the grains break down into a dense, smooth, chewy block with a gentle coconut flavour. Slice it thickly and pour over warm palm sugar syrup, or toast the slices in a dry pan until crisp at the edges. A tall cup of tea or coffee is the perfect partner. Chef's tip: pound while the rice is still hot; once it cools, the grains won't knit together.

90 min

Indonesian Desserts

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Jukut ares (Balinese banana stem soup with chicken)

Jukut ares is cooked in Bali for Galungan and the ceremonies around it, when families gather at home and the kitchen turns out dishes for days; the humble banana tree, which gives fruit, leaves and stem, stands for the generosity of the land. The soft white core of the trunk is sliced thin and simmered in a broth built on base genep, the island's master spice paste, until it is tender and slightly silky, like a cross between bamboo shoot and leek. Villages often use pork bones; this version uses chicken thighs, which make a lighter, golden, peppery broth. Serve it in bowls with steamed rice and sambal. Chef's tip: soak the sliced stem in salted water and pull off the stringy fibres as you go, or the soup turns grey and stringy.

90 min

Indonesian Soups

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Balinese spiced roast pork belly (babi guling style)

Babi guling is the great feast dish of Bali for Galungan and temple ceremonies: at the festival, a whole pig is stuffed with spice paste and turned on a spit over a wood fire for hours. This home version uses a slab of skin-on pork belly instead, with the same base genep stuffing rubbed into the meat and the same goal: tender, spice-soaked pork under crisp, golden crackling. Turmeric, galangal, lemongrass and chilli give it heat and a bright yellow colour, and the pork fat keeps every slice juicy. Serve it sliced with steamed rice, a little of the cooked spice from the tin, long beans and a sharp, fresh sambal matah. Chef's tip: leave the skin uncovered in the fridge overnight; a really dry skin is the secret of crackling that shatters.

360 min

Indonesian Meat

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Geplak (Bantul coconut sugar candy)

Drive south from Yogyakarta to Bantul and you pass shop after shop selling geplak, the brightly coloured coconut candy that Javanese travellers buy by the basket as oleh-oleh, a gift for the people back home. Freshly grated coconut is cooked in sugar syrup until it dries and begins to crystallise, then a spoonful of toasted rice flour pulls it together into a firm, sandy-textured sweet. It is very sweet and coconutty with a gentle pandan scent, and it crumbles softly when you bite it. Serve small pieces with strong Javanese coffee or tea. Geplak is naturally egg-free: the recrystallising sugar and the toasted rice flour are what bind the coconut and let it hold its shape. Chef's tip: cook over a medium heat rather than high; the common mistake is rushing, which browns the coconut and dulls those pastel colours.

80 min

Indonesian Desserts

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Piernik staropolskiHoney spice cake with plum jam

Piernik staropolski is the grand Polish Christmas gingerbread, and the old tradition is to mix the honey dough in November (once even at a child's birth) and leave it to mature for weeks in a cool place, which deepens the spice and makes the cake tender. It is baked a few weeks before Christmas, split into layers with powidła (thick plum butter), glazed with chocolate and left to soften again. This home version rests the dough for at least 3 days. Chef's tip: wrap the baked layers and let them sit for 3 days before filling; fresh piernik is hard, and it softens as it absorbs moisture from the jam.

90 min

Polish Baking

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Tmar mehchi (Moroccan almond-stuffed dates)

Tmar mehchi is the stuffed date of Fez and Marrakech, piled high on silver trays at weddings, engagements and Eid, and offered to guests with mint tea. Soft dates are filled with a homemade almond paste perfumed with orange-blossom water, often tinted pale green or pink to match the celebration, then scored with a knife so the filling shows. They are soft, rich and caramel-sweet, with a floral, nutty middle. The paste here is mixed from ground almonds and icing sugar, so there is no shop marzipan, which can contain egg white. It is naturally egg-free: the dates' sticky flesh and a few spoonfuls of orange-blossom water bind the almond filling. Chef's tip: add the orange-blossom water a little at a time and stop when the paste is firm like play dough. The common mistake is a wet paste, which oozes out and makes the dates slippery.

30 min

Moroccan Desserts

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Garang asemChicken and starfruit in banana leaf

Garang asem is a dish from Kudus and Demak on the north coast of Central Java, where it is cooked for family lunches and sold at warungs by midday. Bone-in chicken is packed into banana-leaf parcels with sour starfruit, tomato, whole chillies and a little thin coconut milk, then steamed until the juices turn into a light, tangy, peppery broth. It is clean-tasting rather than rich, and a portion has about 32 g of protein from the chicken; serve it with steamed rice. The common mistake is wrapping the parcels loosely so the broth runs out; fold the leaves in two layers and pin them tight. Chef's tip: if you can't find belimbing wuluh (sour starfruit), use green tomatoes and a spoon of tamarind water for the same sharpness.

70 min

Indonesian Chicken

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Asinan BetawiPickled vegetable and tofu salad

Asinan Betawi is the cooling salad of old Jakarta, sold from glass-sided carts and eaten mid-afternoon in the heat or brought out at family gatherings in big tubs. Quick-pickled cabbage, cucumber and bean sprouts are piled with cubes of tofu, then soaked in a thin, tangy sauce of chilli, vinegar, palm sugar and ground peanuts. It is crunchy, sour, sweet and spicy all at once. A portion has about 300 kcal and roughly 17 g of protein, from the tofu and peanuts, so it is a light meal rather than a high-protein one. The common mistake is dressing it too early; the vegetables go limp within an hour. Street versions often scatter shrimp crackers on top, so use plain rice or cassava crackers to keep it vegetarian. Chef's tip: chill the sauce well before serving; asinan should be served cold enough to fog the bowl.

40 min

Indonesian Salads

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Sayur sopClear vegetable soup

Sayur sop is the clear vegetable soup cooked in homes all over Indonesia, from Medan to Surabaya, on any ordinary weeknight and whenever a child is poorly; it is spooned over rice beside fried tofu or tempeh. Most families make it with chicken stock, so this is the vegetarian version, built on vegetable stock with fried shallots and celery leaf for depth. It is gentle, savoury and fragrant with nutmeg and white pepper, and children love it. It has about 4 g of protein per portion, from the vegetables and macaroni; add cubes of firm tofu for more. The common mistake is boiling it hard, which clouds the broth and breaks the potato; keep it at a lazy simmer. Chef's tip: fry the garlic and shallot in a little oil before they go in, rather than adding them raw, for a broth that tastes much richer than it is.

40 min

Indonesian Soups

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Sayur asemSour tamarind vegetable soup

Sayur asem is the soup that sits beside fried tempeh, rice and sambal on lunch tables across Jakarta and West Java, and it is most loved in the hot months, when its sharp, sweet-sour broth cools you down. Chunks of sweetcorn, chayote, long beans, raw peanuts and young melinjo leaves simmer in a clear broth soured with tamarind and rounded with a little palm sugar. It is light, with about 5 g of protein per portion, mostly from the peanuts; serve it with tempeh or tofu if you want a full meal. The most common mistake is adding all the vegetables at once: the corn and peanuts need a head start, while the long beans and leaves turn grey and soft if they boil too long. Chef's tip: dissolve the tamarind in a little hot water and add it in stages, tasting as you go, because tamarind blocks vary hugely in strength.

45 min

Indonesian Soups

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Pepes tahuTofu and basil in banana leaf

In Bandung and the hills of West Java, pepes means anything wrapped in banana leaf, steamed and then charred over coals, and pepes tahu is the everyday meat-free one, eaten at lunch with rice, raw vegetables and sambal. Mashed tofu is bound with egg, shallot, chilli, lemon basil and lime leaf, so it sets into a soft, fragrant, smoky cake inside its leaf. Each portion has about 150 g of tofu and most of an egg, giving roughly 24 g of protein, from the tofu and eggs. The common mistake is skipping the steaming and going straight to the grill: the outside burns while the egg in the middle stays raw. Chef's tip: steam first until the filling is firm right through, then grill only to scorch the leaf and add smoke.

65 min

Indonesian Vegetarian

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Bób z koperkiemBroad beans with butter and dill

All over Poland, from Kraków's market stalls to allotments outside Warsaw, the short broad bean season in June and July means bowls of bób z koperkiem: young beans boiled in their pale skins, tossed with melted butter, dill and salt, and eaten with your fingers on summer evenings. You squeeze each bean out of its skin with your teeth, or eat the skin too if the beans are very young. A generous bowl of 300 g beans gives about 22 g of protein, all from the broad beans. The most common mistake is overcooking: the skins burst and the beans turn grey and floury. Chef's tip: add a pinch of sugar to the cooking water along with the salt, as Polish cooks do; it keeps the beans sweet and bright.

15 min

Polish Snacks & Starters

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Lalapan with sambal tomatRaw vegetables with tomato sambal

In Sundanese homes and warung across West Java, from Bandung to Bogor, lalapan sits on the table at nearly every rice meal: a plate of raw cucumber, cabbage, long beans, Thai basil, lettuce and sometimes small green aubergines, dipped one by one into fiery sambal. It is about freshness and crunch more than cooking. The usual sambal terasi uses shrimp paste, so here it is a vegetarian sambal tomat of fried chilli, shallot, garlic and tomato, ground with palm sugar and lime. A portion gives only about 3 g of protein, so pair it with fried tofu or tempeh and rice for a full meal. The most common mistake is serving limp vegetables: wash them, then crisp them in iced water and dry them well. Chef's tip: fry the sambal ingredients until the tomato skins split and the shallots catch at the edges; that charring gives the depth shrimp paste usually brings.

25 min

Indonesian Sides

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