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494 recipes

Ceviche peruanoLime-cured white fish

Ceviche is Peru's national dish, eaten at lunchtime in the cevicherías of Lima's Surquillo and Chorrillos markets, because the fish must be fresh off the morning boats and cevicherías traditionally close in the afternoon. The classic is raw white fish 'cooked' in lime juice with red onion, chilli and coriander, served with sweet potato and corn. Lime juice does not kill bacteria or parasites, so this version first poaches the fish for a minute until just opaque, then dresses it, which keeps the classic flavour and texture far safer. Even so, it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. The usual mistake is leaving the fish in the lime for an hour: it turns chalky and the juice goes bitter. Chef's tip: squeeze the limes gently by hand and stop before the pith; over-squeezed limes make bitter leche de tigre.

40 min

Peruvian Fish

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Tamales peruanosChicken corn tamales in banana leaf

In Lima, tamales are a Sunday breakfast, bought warm from street vendors calling 'tamaleeeeros' or made at home for Christmas, and eaten with crusty bread and a pile of salsa criolla. Peruvian tamales are larger and softer than Mexican ones, made from corn dough coloured with ají and wrapped in banana leaves, hiding chicken, a black olive, a slice of egg and a peanut. Peanuts are an allergen, so leave them out if needed. The usual mistake is a dry dough: the tamales turn crumbly. Beat in enough warm stock to make a soft paste that just holds its shape. The chicken must reach 74 °C before it goes in. Chef's tip: fat makes the dough tender; beat the oil and dough for a full 5 minutes until light, as Lima cooks do with pork lard.

150 min

Peruvian Chicken

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Arroz con mariscosSeafood rice

Arroz con mariscos is the weekend dish of Callao and the beach towns south of Lima, served in cevicherías as the hot partner to a cold ceviche. It is moister than a paella, closer to a risotto, coloured with ají panca and ají amarillo and finished with peas and a little Parmesan-style cheese, as many Lima cooks do. The common mistake is adding all the seafood at the start: the squid turns rubbery and the prawns shrink to nothing. Cook the rice first and add the shellfish only for the final minutes. Discard any mussels that are open before cooking and do not close when tapped, and any that stay shut after cooking. The cheese is often made with animal rennet; use a vegetarian hard cheese if you prefer. Chef's tip: simmer the prawn shells in the stock for 10 minutes; they give the rice its deep seafood taste.

60 min

Peruvian Fish

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Crema volteadaBaked caramel custard

In Lima, crema volteada is the dessert that appears at Sunday lunch in Miraflores and Barranco homes and at every birthday where an aunt is in charge of the sweets. It is firmer and richer than a Spanish flan because it is made with both evaporated and condensed milk, so it slices cleanly and tastes of toffee. The usual mistake is baking it in an oven that is too hot: the custard boils, fills with tiny holes and weeps. Keep the water bath at a bare simmer and take it out while the centre still wobbles slightly. Chef's tip: chill it overnight before turning it out; a cold custard releases in one piece and the caramel has time to melt into a pourable sauce.

80 min

Peruvian Desserts

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Pescado a lo machoFried fish in spicy seafood sauce

Pescado a lo macho is a classic of Lima's seafood restaurants, the dish people order for a long Sunday lunch near the sea in Chorrillos: a fillet of fried white fish smothered in a thick, spicy sauce of ají panca and ají amarillo packed with prawns, squid and mussels. The name boasts that you need to be brave for the chilli, but you can turn it down. The common mistake is overcooking the seafood while the sauce reduces; add it only when the sauce is already thick. Discard mussels that are open and do not close when tapped, and any that stay shut after cooking. Chef's tip: dust the fish in flour seasoned with cumin and fry it last, so it reaches the table crisp under the sauce.

55 min

Peruvian Fish

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Lomo saltadoBeef stir-fry with chips

Lomo saltado was born in the chifas of central Lima, where Chinese cooks met Peruvian ingredients, and today it is the lunch every Peruvian family makes when they want something fast and a little indulgent. Strips of beef are seared in a smoking-hot wok with red onion, tomato and yellow chilli, splashed with soy sauce and vinegar, then tossed with chips and served beside white rice, so you get both starches on one plate. The common mistake is crowding the wok: the beef stews in its juices and turns grey and chewy instead of charring. Cook it in two batches over the highest heat you have. Chef's tip: add the chips at the very last second, or serve them on the side, so they soak up a little sauce but stay crisp.

45 min

Peruvian Meat

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Arroz tapadoRice dome with beef filling

Arroz tapado means covered rice, and it is the thrifty weekday lunch of Lima homes and school canteens: garlic rice pressed into a bowl, filled with a sweet-savoury beef mince and turned out like a dome. The filling of minced beef with onion, ají panca, raisins, black olives and hard-boiled egg is the same picadillo that goes into papas rellenas. The usual mistake is leaving the filling wet: the dome collapses and the rice turns soggy. Simmer it until the pan is almost dry. Minced beef must reach 71 °C, so cook it until no pink remains. Serve with a spoonful of salsa criolla. Chef's tip: brush the bowl with a little oil and pack the rice firmly with the back of a spoon; a well-pressed dome holds its shape on the plate.

60 min

Peruvian Meat

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Sopa criollaCreamy beef noodle soup

Sopa criolla is the soup Lima turns to on grey winter evenings, when the garúa mist hangs over the city: a beef broth reddened with ají panca, full of thin noodles and strips of beef, enriched with evaporated milk and finished with a poached egg. It arrives with toasted bread for dunking. The common mistake is boiling the soup after adding the milk; it splits into specks. Lower the heat first and stir it in gently. The beef strips are thin, so they cook through in a few minutes. Chef's tip: crack the eggs straight into the barely simmering soup and leave them alone for three minutes; the whites set into soft ribbons that thicken the broth.

45 min

Peruvian Soups

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Zsíros kenyérLard on rye bread

Zsíros kenyér, 'fat bread', is the Hungarian village supper and wine-cellar snack, still eaten on summer evenings across the Great Plain: thick slices of rustic bread spread with pork lard, salted, dusted with sweet paprika and piled with raw red onion. It is made from pork fat, so it is not for vegetarians. Eaten with green peppers, radishes and a glass of something cold, it is plain food that is better than it sounds. The common mistake is using hard, fridge-cold lard straight from the block; it tears the bread and tastes waxy. Chef's tip: look for lard with crackling bits (tepertős zsír) or stir a few crushed pork scratchings into soft lard for the proper flavour.

5 min

Hungarian Snacks & Starters

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Pan con butifarraHam roll with onion salsa

Pan con butifarra is Lima's evening sandwich, sold in old-school sangucherías and made at home for a light dinner with coffee: a crusty roll filled with jamón del país, a spiced Peruvian pork ham, under a heap of salsa criolla, red onion sliced thin and soaked in lime with chilli. Outside Peru, use a good cooked pork ham. The common mistake is leaving the onion harsh; give it a quick rinse in salted water before dressing it. Chef's tip: a leaf of lettuce under the ham stops the lime juice soaking straight into the bread.

10 min

Peruvian Meat

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Diós tésztaWalnut and sugar pasta

Diós tészta, walnut noodles, is a sweet main course that Hungarians eat for lunch or a quick dinner, often after a bowl of bean or vegetable soup, and it is a fixture of Budapest school canteens. Hot ribbon pasta is tossed with melted butter, then with ground walnuts and sugar, so the nuts cling in a sweet, toasty coat. Children adore it; it contains nuts, so mind allergies. The common mistake is using old walnuts, which taste bitter and spoil the dish; taste one before you start. Chef's tip: toast the ground walnuts in the dry pan for a minute until they smell rich, and a little lemon zest keeps the sweetness lively.

14 min

Hungarian Pasta & Noodles

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Coconut chokaRoasted coconut and garlic relish

Coconut choka is a smoky Indo-Trinidadian relish from villages in central and south Trinidad, eaten for breakfast or dinner with soft sada roti: pieces of dry coconut are roasted over an open flame until charred in spots, then ground with garlic, onion and hot pepper. It is nutty, smoky and fiery, and needs nothing else but the roti and a cup of tea. The common mistake is only warming the coconut; without proper black spots and a toasted smell it tastes raw. Chef's tip: scrape off only the thickest burnt bits before grinding, since a little char is the whole point. Wear gloves or wash your hands well after handling the hot pepper.

18 min

Trinidadian Chutneys & Dips

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TripleAvocado, tomato and egg sandwich

The triple is the soft, layered sandwich of Lima's cafés and bakeries, eaten at lonche, the Peruvian late-afternoon meal, or as a light supper: three slices of crustless white bread layered with avocado, tomato and sliced hard-boiled egg, all held together with mayonnaise. It looks neat, tastes fresh and is loved by children. Shop-bought mayonnaise is made with pasteurised egg, so it is safe for everyone. The common mistake is letting wet tomato touch the bread, which turns it soggy within minutes. Chef's tip: pat the tomato dry and sit it between the avocado and egg, then press the sandwich under a board for a minute before cutting.

15 min

Peruvian Snacks & Starters

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GojhaSweet coconut half-moon pastries

When Divali comes to Trinidad, Hindu families light rows of clay deyas along bamboo frames, and the kitchen fills up with sweets to share with neighbours of every faith: kurma, parsad, barfi and gojha. Gojha are the Caribbean cousin of the North Indian gujiya: a short dough rolled thin, filled with grated coconut cooked with brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger, folded into half-moons, crimped and fried golden; the same tray reappears at Phagwah, the spring colour festival. Common mistake: frying in oil that is too hot, which browns the outside while the pastry stays raw; keep the oil at about 170 °C and fry until the bubbles slow and the gojha are evenly golden. Chef's tip: seal the edges with a dab of water and crimp them tightly, or the filling leaks and spits in the oil.

60 min

Trinidadian Indian Sweets

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KachourieSplit pea and spinach fritters

At Divali nagars and Phagwah gatherings in Trinidad, the food tents sell paper bags of kachourie with a squirt of tamarind or mango chutney. They are made from yellow split peas soaked overnight and ground coarse with garlic, hot pepper and geera (cumin), then mixed with chopped spinach or bhaji leaves and spooned into hot oil, giving a craggy outside and a soft, savoury middle. They are naturally vegan and, without baking powder, gluten-free. Common mistake: adding water while grinding, which gives a runny batter that soaks up oil; grind in short bursts with only a spoon or two of water, and the fritters are done when they are deep golden and sound hollow when tapped. Chef's tip: beat the ground batter with a spoon for a minute to whip in air, which makes them lighter.

45 min

Trinidadian Snacks & Starters

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BaiganeeAubergine in split pea batter

Baiganee is the Trinidadian answer to Bengal's beguni, brought by indentured labourers and changed by the island: the melongene (aubergine) slices are coated in a batter of ground split peas with garlic, geera and hot pepper rather than gram flour, and they turn up on Divali and Phagwah trays and at every Indo-Trini wedding next to pholourie and saheena. The batter fries into a thick, crunchy shell around soft, creamy aubergine. Common mistake: slicing the melongene too thick, so it stays raw while the batter burns; cut it 5 mm thin and fry until the batter is golden and a knife goes through the centre with no resistance. Serve with mango or tamarind chutney. Chef's tip: salt the slices for 10 minutes and pat them dry, so the batter sticks and the oil does not spit.

40 min

Trinidadian Snacks & Starters

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Pajagua mascadaBeef and cassava patties

Pajagua mascada is a Paraguayan street-food classic that appears on every table for the San Juan festival on 24 June, when bonfires burn and the night is full of games and traditional food. Minced beef is mixed with mashed cassava, onion, garlic and a little egg and flour, shaped into flat patties and fried until crisp. The name comes from Guaraní and refers to the 'chewing' of old Paraguayan cooks, who made it from leftover meat. Chef's tip: dry the boiled cassava well and remove its woody core, which keeps the patties light and crunchy.

60 min

Paraguayan Meat

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KalanehWild leek stuffed flatbread

In Kurdistan and Kermanshah, Newroz arrives with the first spring greens on the hillsides, and families gather wild leeks to fold into kalaneh, thin griddle breads cooked over a fire or a hot pan and soaked in melted butter. The dough is plain and soft, rolled very thin around a pile of chopped leek or chives with a little salt and pepper, so the greens steam inside as the bread blisters. Eat it hot, torn into strips, with yogurt and tea at a Newroz picnic. The common mistake is wet greens, which turn the dough soggy and make it tear; dry them well after washing. Chef's tip: brush the butter on the moment the bread leaves the pan so it soaks right in.

65 minMiddle Eastern Breads & Parathas

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Húsvéti kalácsBraided Easter milk loaf

In Hungary the Easter table on Sunday morning centres on smoked ham, hard-boiled eggs, fresh horseradish and húsvéti kalács, a soft, braided milk bread enriched with butter and egg yolks. It is lightly sweet, so it suits the salty ham perfectly, and the leftovers make excellent French toast on Easter Monday. Many families braid it with three or four strands and bake it into a ring. Chef's tip: braid loosely and tuck the ends under, because a tight braid splits along the sides as it rises in the oven.

75 min

Hungarian Baking

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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KaguyjyWhite corn pudding

On the night of 23–24 June, Paraguayans celebrate San Juan with bonfires, games like walking over hot coals and the 'paso de fuego', and a table of traditional foods, and kaguyjy (also mazamorra) is one of them. It is a soft, creamy pudding of cracked white corn (locro) simmered slowly in water and then milk with sugar or honey, sometimes with orange peel. It is eaten warm or cold. It is gluten free. Chef's tip: soak the corn overnight and cook it until each kernel is tender before adding the milk, or it never turns creamy.

130 min

Paraguayan Desserts

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BáránypörköltLamb stew with paprika

For Hungarians, lamb is Easter food, and báránypörkölt is the classic way to cook it for Easter Sunday or Monday: chunks of lamb stewed slowly in their own juices with a lot of onion, sweet paprika, garlic, a little tomato and green pepper, until tender in a thick, deep-red sauce. It is served with nokedli (little egg dumplings) or boiled potatoes and a cucumber salad. Chef's tip: take the pot off the heat when you add the paprika, because paprika burns in seconds and turns the whole stew bitter.

140 min

Hungarian Curries

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Sopa teólogaTurkey broth with bread and cheese

Sopa teóloga ('the theologian's soup') goes back to colonial convents in Lima and Arequipa, where it was cooked for feast days, and it is still served at Holy Week and family celebrations. A rich turkey (or chicken) broth is thickened with soaked bread, milk and fresh cheese, with yellow potatoes and shreds of turkey, and finished with a little ají amarillo and chopped huacatay or parsley. It is thick, comforting and filling. Chef's tip: blend part of the soaked bread with broth before adding it, which gives the soup its creamy body without lumps.

115 min

Peruvian Soups

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Húsvéti sonkaSmoked ham with eggs and horseradish

On Easter Sunday morning in Hungary the table is laid with húsvéti sonka, a whole smoked pork ham simmered slowly the day before, sliced cold and served with eggs hard-boiled in the ham's cooking water, freshly grated horseradish, spring onions and braided kalács. The cooking water then becomes the base of a bean or lentil soup the next day. Use a raw-smoked (uncooked) ham from a Hungarian or Polish butcher. Chef's tip: soak the ham overnight to draw out salt, and cool it in its cooking water so it stays juicy.

195 min

Hungarian Meat

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