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Vegetarian Indian dinners

Dal, sabzi, curries and rice dishes for a meat-free Indian dinner. (880 recipes)

Bellam gavvaluShell-shaped dough in jaggery syrup

In Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, Sankranti is a three-day harvest festival of muggulu (rangoli) in front of every door, haridasu singers in the lanes and tins of fried sweets, and gavvalu are among the first to be made. Small pieces of dough are rolled over a ridged gavvala board or the back of a fork so they curl into little shells (gavvalu means cowrie shells), fried crisp, then tossed in jaggery syrup until each one is glazed with a dry, sugary crust. Common mistake: syrup that is not cooked far enough; it must reach the hard-ball stage, when a drop in water rolls into a firm ball, or the shells turn sticky instead of crisp-coated. Chef's tip: keep tossing after adding the shells until the syrup turns opaque and dry; that is the moment to tip them out.

65 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Vella seedaiJaggery-glazed rice flour balls

Next to the salty seedai on the Gokulashtami tray in Tamil Nadu sit vella seedai, the sweet twin: rice and urad flour kneaded with jaggery syrup, sesame and cardamom, rolled into slightly larger balls and fried to a deep brown crunch. They are offered to Krishna with butter, aval and fruit, then shared with neighbours. Common mistake: using hot syrup, which cooks the flour into a sticky mass and makes the balls burst; the syrup should be strained, cooled to warm and only cooked to a thin, sticky stage, not to a string. They are fried when the oil goes quiet and they turn deep golden-brown. Chef's tip: let the dough rest covered for 30 minutes before rolling; it firms up and the balls hold their shape.

70 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Kakara pithaFried semolina coconut cakes

In Odisha no festival plate is complete without kakara pitha, and during Durga Puja (and on Prathamastami and Dussehra) Odia homes fry them by the dozen to offer and share. A soft semolina dough cooked in sweetened milk-water is wrapped around a filling of fresh coconut, jaggery, cardamom and a surprising pinch of crushed black pepper, flattened into discs and fried in ghee until golden. They are crisp outside, soft and chewy within, with a gently spicy sweet centre. Common mistake: letting the jaggery filling stay wet, which makes it leak and burst in the hot fat; cook it until it gathers into a ball that leaves the pan clean. Chef's tip: knead the cooked semolina while it is still warm with a little ghee on your palms; it turns smooth and pliable and will not crack as you shape the pitha.

60 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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DindeSteamed chana jaggery parcels

On Nag Panchami in Maharashtra, women draw snakes in turmeric, offer milk and lahya at anthills, and by custom nothing is cut, chopped or fried on the tava that day, so the festival sweet is dinde: wheat-dough squares folded around puran (chana dal and jaggery) and steamed. They are soft, a little chewy and fragrant with nutmeg and cardamom, eaten warm with ghee. Common mistake: wet puran that leaks; cook the dal and jaggery until the mixture is thick and a spoon stands upright in it, then cool before filling. Chef's tip: steam the dinde on a greased banana leaf or plate and keep the seams down, so they keep their square shape.

80 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Kaddu bhaatBottle gourd dal with rice

Chhath begins with Nahay-khay: after a holy bath in the Ganga or a pond, the women and men keeping the fast in Bihar and Jharkhand eat one pure, simple meal, and it is always kaddu (bottle gourd) cooked with chana dal, plain rice and a ghee-fried sabzi, seasoned only with sendha namak (rock salt) and no onion or garlic. The dal is mild, soft and sweet from the gourd, with cumin, ginger and green chilli. Common mistake: adding the gourd at the start, so it collapses to mush; cook the chana dal soft first, then simmer the gourd until just translucent. Chef's tip: grate a spoon of fresh ginger into the ghee tadka at the end; it is the main flavour since there is no garlic.

55 min

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Tekeli pithaSteamed coconut jaggery rice cake

In Assamese homes the nights before Magh Bihu are spent making pitha, and tekeli pitha is the one named after the pot it is cooked on: a cloth is tied over the mouth of a tekeli (a small clay water pot), and damp rice flour, coconut and jaggery are piled on top and steamed by the water boiling underneath. It comes off as a soft, crumbly cake, sweet in the middle and plain at the edges, eaten warm with tea on Bihu morning or packed into the bhogali spread. Any narrow-necked pot or saucepan works at home. Common mistake: using dry shop rice flour straight from the packet; it needs to be just damp enough to clump when pressed, or the cake falls apart, and it is done when the top looks matt and a skewer comes out clean, about 10–12 minutes. Chef's tip: soak and grind your own rice flour if you can; flour from soaked rice, dried for an hour, gives the softest pitha.

45 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Mangodi ki sabziMoong dal nuggets in yogurt gravy

Mangodi are little sun-dried nuggets of ground moong dal that Rajasthani women make in summer and store for months; during Paryushan, when Marwari Jain homes give up green vegetables, they become the sabzi itself. Here they are fried golden, then simmered in a spiced yoghurt gravy with no onion, garlic, fresh ginger or tomato, so the dish is fully Jain. The nuggets soak up the tangy gravy and turn soft but still a little chewy; serve with phulka or bajra roti. Use freshly set curd, as many Jains avoid curd kept overnight. Common mistake: pouring yoghurt straight into a hot pan, which makes it split into grainy curds; whisk it with gram flour first and keep stirring until it comes to the boil. Chef's tip: fry the mangodi until deep golden; pale ones stay hard in the middle however long they simmer.

40 min

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Meethe pudeJaggery fennel pancakes

Teeyan, Punjab's monsoon festival of Teej, is when married daughters visit their parents, girls swing from neem trees and dance giddha, and the food that comes out on rainy afternoons is kheer with meethe pude: thin wheat-flour pancakes sweetened with jaggery and fennel, shallow-fried in ghee until lacy at the edges. They are soft in the middle and crisp round the rim. Common mistake: a thick batter, which gives heavy, doughy pude; it should pour like single cream, and each pancake is ready to flip when the edges brown and lift from the pan. Chef's tip: rest the batter for 20 minutes so the flour hydrates; the pude spread thinner and crisp better.

50 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Gathiya nu shaakGathiya in yogurt tomato gravy

Gathiya nu shaak is a Kathiawadi dhaba standby along the Rajkot and Bhavnagar highways, cooked in ten minutes and eaten with hot bajra rotla, raw onion and buttermilk. A spicy gravy of onion, tomato, garlic and whisked yogurt is brought to a simmer and thick bhavnagari gathiya go in right at the end, so they soften on the outside but keep a little bite at the centre. It is rich, fiery and comforting. The common mistake is adding the gathiya too early or letting them sit in the gravy; they swell and turn to mush. Chef's tip: have everyone at the table before the gathiya go into the pan, and serve within two minutes.

25 min

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Makhan mishriFresh butter with rock sugar

Stories from Mathura and Vrindavan tell of the child Krishna stealing butter from the pots of the cowherd women, so at midnight on Janmashtami the first offering in the temples and at home is a bowl of fresh white butter mixed with mishri, the rock-sugar crystals. The butter is churned from cream at home, so it is soft, cool and lightly tangy, and the sugar crunches against it. It is eaten as prasad in tiny spoonfuls, often with a tulsi leaf on top. Common mistake: churning warm cream, which turns greasy instead of breaking; the cream must be fridge-cold, and the butter is ready when yellow-white clumps separate cleanly from thin buttermilk. Chef's tip: rinse the butter in iced water two or three times and press it with a spoon; washing out the buttermilk keeps it fresh for a day.

15 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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ChooriCrumbled roti with ghee and sugar

In Punjabi villages choori is what a grandmother makes when a child comes home hungry before dinner: a warm roti or leftover paratha crumbled by hand into ghee and shakkar until it turns into soft, sweet, buttery crumbs. It is eaten with a glass of tea or milk in the late afternoon, and in many homes a bowl is set aside as an offering on Sankranti and at the gurdwara. The common mistake is using cold, leathery rotis straight from the box: the ghee won't soak in and the sugar stays gritty. Warm them on the tawa first until they are soft and just crisp at the edges. Chef's tip: a pinch of crushed fennel and some chopped almonds turn it into a little treat for guests.

15 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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SunthavadaDry ginger, coconut and sugar mix

At exactly noon on Ram Navami, when Maharashtrian temples and homes rock a decorated cradle to mark Rama's birth, each person is handed a spoonful of sunthavada: dry ginger powder, toasted dry coconut, poppy seeds and sugar pounded together into a fragrant, warming powder. The same mix is given at Janmashtami midnight. It is sweet, nutty and gently fiery from the ginger. Common mistake: burning the coconut; it should be toasted on a low heat only until it turns pale gold and smells sweet, then cooled before grinding so it does not turn oily. Chef's tip: grind in short pulses; long grinding releases the coconut oil and the powder clumps.

15 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Bharela marchaStuffed green chillies

In Kathiawad, bharela marcha are made with the long, fat and fairly mild bhavnagri chillies that come in every winter, and they sit beside a thali of rotla, kadhi and khichdi as a sweet-sour-hot side. The filling is besan roasted in oil until nutty, mixed with sugar, lemon, turmeric and dhana-jiru, and the chillies are cooked covered on low heat until soft and blistered in patches. A common mistake is using small, very hot chillies; choose large mild ones, or the dish is too fierce to eat. Chef's tip: slit the chillies only on one side and scrape out the seeds and ribs; the heat drops right down and the filling stays inside.

30 min

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Talela marchaFried green chillies

Every plate of gathiya, dalvada or bhajiya sold in Gujarat comes with a little heap of talela marcha, green chillies dropped into the farsan seller's kadai for a few seconds until they blister and turn olive green, then shaken with salt and a squeeze of lemon. Bitten between mouthfuls of farsan they give a fresh, smoky hit of heat. Use thick, fairly mild chillies if you can find them. The common mistake is frying wet chillies: water on the skin makes the oil spit violently. Chef's tip: slit them lengthways first so steam escapes and they don't burst in the oil.

13 min

Indian Chutneys & Dips

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Rasiya dhokliWheat diamonds in tomato buttermilk

Rasiya dhokli is what Kathiawadi cooks in Rajkot and Gondal make on an evening when there are no vegetables in the basket: a quick dough of wheat and gram flour with chilli and ajwain is rolled, cut into diamonds and simmered in a thin, tangy rasa of tomatoes, sour buttermilk and plenty of garlic and red chilli. The dhokli soak up the sauce and turn soft and silky, and the whole thing is eaten from a bowl like a spicy, soupy one-pot supper. The common mistake is adding the buttermilk to a boiling pot, which splits it; temper it with some of the hot rasa first and keep the heat low. Chef's tip: let the finished dish rest for 5 minutes off the heat; the dhokli thicken the rasa to just the right consistency.

45 min

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GhughuteFried jaggery dough shapes

In Kumaon, Makar Sankranti is Ghughutiya, and the evening before, families knead wheat flour with jaggery and shape it into little drums (damru), swords, knots and flowers, fry them and thread them into necklaces with an orange in the middle. The next morning children wear the garlands and call the crows: 'kale kale, ghughuti mala khale', offering them the first bites before eating the rest themselves. The ghughute are crisp outside and slightly chewy within, gently sweet with fennel. Common mistake: oil that is too hot; they darken in seconds but stay doughy inside, so fry on a medium heat until they are an even deep gold and sound hollow when tapped. Chef's tip: keep the dough quite stiff, like for mathri; soft dough loses its shapes in the oil.

60 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Lauki ki kheerBottle gourd milk pudding

Lauki ki kheer is the light pudding many North Indian families make on Mahashivratri, Navratri and Ekadashi, when rice is off the menu: grated bottle gourd stands in for the grain, softens in ghee and then simmers in milk until it turns pale, creamy and almost translucent. It tastes delicate and milky, with cardamom and a crunch of nuts, and is eaten warm after the evening puja or chilled the next day. Taste a sliver of the raw gourd first; a bitter one can make you ill and must be thrown away. Common mistake: adding the sugar too early, which stops the gourd softening and can make the milk split; add it only once the milk has reduced by about a third and the lauki is tender. Chef's tip: squeeze the grated lauki lightly before cooking, but keep the juice and add it to the milk, so none of the flavour is lost.

45 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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KulerBajra ghee jaggery balls

On Nag Pancham, Gujarati women draw a snake in kumkum on the wall or visit a nag temple and offer kuler with milk and cotton: a raw sweet of fine bajra flour rubbed with ghee and jaggery, rolled into soft balls. Since the day is a cold-food day in many homes, nothing is cooked; the bajra simply soaks up the ghee. It is soft, earthy, sweet and slightly sandy. Common mistake: using coarse or stale bajra flour, which tastes bitter and gritty; use fresh, finely ground flour, and the mix is ready when a handful holds together when squeezed. If you prefer, you can lightly roast the flour first, though that is not the traditional way. Chef's tip: grate the jaggery very finely, or melt it with the ghee and cool slightly, so it blends evenly.

15 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Kashi halwaAsh gourd halwa

Kashi halwa, also called dumrot, is the sweet that ends Udupi and Karnataka wedding feasts, spooned onto the banana leaf next to payasa. Grated white ash gourd cooks down in its own juice with sugar and ghee until it turns glassy and golden, with saffron for colour and cashews for crunch; it tastes delicate and buttery, not vegetal. The mistake most people make is skipping the squeeze: grate the gourd and leave the water in, and the halwa takes an hour to thicken and goes mushy. Squeeze it well, then cook the gourd in that juice. Chef's tip: add the sugar only after the gourd is soft and translucent; sugar added early firms the shreds and they never turn tender.

60 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Mosaru avalakkiCurd flattened rice

On hot evenings in Mysuru and Bengaluru, mosaru avalakki is the cooling no-fuss dinner: thin poha folded into thick curd loosened with a little milk, sharpened with ginger and green chilli and finished with a sizzling mustard and curry leaf tempering. It is soft, tangy and refreshing, and often comes with pomegranate seeds or grated cucumber. The common mistake is mixing it too early; thin poha keeps soaking up curd and turns into a stiff paste if it sits. Chef's tip: stir in the milk last, just before serving, so the curd stays creamy and the poha keeps a little bite.

9 min

Indian Rice & Grains

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PalkovaMilk fudge

Srivilliputhur, the temple town of Andal near Virudhunagar, is so famous for its palkova that it has a protected geographical name. Local cows' milk is reduced in wide iron pans over a wood fire with sugar until it becomes a soft, grainy, pale caramel-coloured fudge, sold on banana-leaf squares and eaten as a sweet with tea or after meals. The mistake is turning the heat up to save time; the milk scorches, tastes burnt and the texture turns tough. Chef's tip: use full-fat milk and a wide, heavy pan, and stir the bottom and sides constantly in the last twenty minutes.

90 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Puli avalTamarind flattened rice

Puli aval is the quick cousin of tamarind rice from Tamil Nadu, cooked in Kumbakonam and Tirunelveli homes as an evening tiffin or a light supper when there's no rice left in the pot. Thick flattened rice is soaked in tamarind water, then tossed into a crackling tempering of mustard seeds, dals, red chilli and peanuts. It tastes tangy, a little sweet and nutty, with soft flakes and crunchy bits. The common mistake is drowning the aval in tamarind water so it turns to porridge; it only needs to be moistened, not soaked. Chef's tip: let the tempered aval sit, covered and off the heat, for 2 minutes before serving so the flakes soften evenly and drink in the tamarind.

13 min

Indian Rice & Grains

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Sattu ke ladduRoasted gram laddus

Kajli Teej in Bundi, Rajasthan, falls in the dark fortnight of Bhadrapad, when women fast for their husbands and break the fast in the evening by moonrise with sattu: roasted gram flour mixed with ghee, sugar and nuts and pressed into laddus or one large decorated cake called a sattu pinda. The laddus are nutty, soft, powdery and very filling. Common mistake: using plain besan instead of sattu, or under-roasting the sattu, which tastes raw; roast gently in ghee until it smells biscuity and the ghee starts to separate at the edges. Chef's tip: shape while the mix is warm but cool enough to hold, and press each laddu firmly in your palm so it does not crumble.

25 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Semiya upmaSavoury vermicelli

Semiya upma is a fixture of Tamil home cooking, from Coimbatore to Chennai, made for breakfast, for school tiffin boxes and very often for a light dinner when nobody wants a heavy meal. Ready-roasted wheat vermicelli is cooked in a tempering of mustard seeds, dal, curry leaves, onion and green chilli with a handful of peas until each strand is soft and separate. It is mild and savoury with a squeeze of lemon, and children love it. The common mistake is adding too much water, which turns the vermicelli into a sticky lump. Chef's tip: once the water is absorbed, take the pan off the heat and leave it covered for 2 minutes; the strands finish cooking in the steam and stay separate.

15 min

Indian Pasta & Noodles

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KhichdoWheat, rice and dal porridge

Khichdo is Gujarat's Uttarayan dish of giving: on the morning of the festival big pots of it are cooked and shared with neighbours, cows and anyone in need, because charity on Makar Sankranti is thought to bring blessings. It is a slow, hearty porridge of pounded whole wheat cooked with rice and several dals until everything melts together, finished with a ghee tadka of whole spices, ginger and chilli. Some families make it sweet with jaggery instead. Common mistake: skipping the soaking; the wheat needs a night in water or it never softens, and the khichdo is ready when the grains are bursting and it falls thickly from the ladle. Chef's tip: pounded khichda wheat is sold in Indian shops; cracked whole wheat (not bulgur) also works.

120 min

Indian Rice & Grains

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Veppampoo rasamNeem flower rasam

Puthandu, the Tamil New Year in mid-April, falls when neem trees across Tamil Nadu are in flower, and the festive lunch has a little bitterness on purpose, to remind everyone that the year will bring both sweet and bitter. Veppampoo rasam does it gently: dried neem flowers are fried in ghee until crisp and stirred into a light tamarind rasam with pepper and cumin. It is thin, warming and sour, with a toasty bitter finish, and it is poured over rice or sipped from a tumbler. The common mistake is burning the flowers; they turn from golden to black in seconds and taste acrid, so have the rasam ready before you heat the ghee. The rasam is ready when it froths up to the top of the pan; take it off before it reaches a rolling boil. Chef's tip: fry a few extra flowers and scatter them over each serving for crunch.

30 min

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Ugadi pachadiSix-taste new year relish

On Ugadi morning in Andhra Pradesh, Telangana and Karnataka, the first thing anyone eats after the oil bath and prayers is a spoonful of this pachadi, handed round in a small steel cup. Each ingredient stands for a feeling the coming year will bring: jaggery for joy, bitter neem flowers for sorrow, sour tamarind for disgust, raw mango for surprise, pepper for anger and salt for fear, so tasting them together is a quiet promise to accept whatever comes. In Maharashtra, Gudi Padwa begins with a close cousin, tender neem leaves ground with jaggery, cumin and tamarind. The finished pachadi is thin, sweet first, then sharp and faintly bitter. The common mistake is a heavy hand with neem: half a spoon too much and bitterness drowns every other taste. Stir until the jaggery has dissolved completely and no grains crunch against the spoon. Chef's tip: make it on the morning itself, as the cut mango softens and the neem turns muddy if it sits overnight.

15 min

Indian Chutneys & Dips

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Elo jheloFried dough strips in sugar syrup

Elo jhelo means something like 'messy-tangled', and it describes these knotted, twisted strips of fried dough that Bengali grandmothers make for Bijoya Dashami, when the goddess leaves and everyone shares sweets. The strips are cut, slit and pulled through themselves into a twist, fried slowly until crisp, then dipped in a one-string sugar syrup that sets to a thin, crackly glaze. They keep for weeks in a tin. Common mistake: dipping the strips in syrup that is too thin; it soaks in and makes them soggy. Cook the syrup until a drop pulled between finger and thumb forms one thread. Chef's tip: add a teaspoon of semolina to the dough; it makes elo jhelo crunchier and less likely to soften once glazed.

60 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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KanikaSweet ghee rice

Kanika is one of the dishes of the Jagannath temple's mahaprasad in Puri, cooked in clay pots over wood fires and sold at the Ananda Bazaar to pilgrims, and Odia homes make it for Rath Yatra, when the deities ride their chariots through the town. It is a fragrant, glossy rice sweetened with sugar and perfumed with cinnamon, bay leaf and cloves in plenty of ghee, studded with fried cashews and raisins. It sits halfway between a pulao and a dessert and is eaten with dalma or a temple-style mahura. Common mistake: adding the sugar at the start, which hardens the grains; cook the rice almost through first, then add the sugar, and it is done when the syrup is absorbed and the ghee shines on the surface. Chef's tip: use a short-grain aromatic rice such as gobindobhog or the Odia arua rice for the true temple texture; basmati works but gives separate, longer grains.

45 min

Indian Rice & Grains

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MahuraMixed vegetables with dal

Mahura is the vegetable curry of the Jagannath temple tradition in Odisha and a fixture on Rath Yatra lunches at home: pumpkin, raw banana, yam, aubergine and sweet potato cooked soft with a little dal and a paste of roasted cumin, ginger, coconut and a touch of jaggery. Like all temple food it uses no onion, garlic, tomato, chilli powder or New World vegetables, so it tastes gentle, earthy and faintly sweet. It is thicker and more vegetable-heavy than dalma, with the dal only binding the vegetables. Common mistake: stirring too much once the pumpkin softens, which melts it into the gravy; the mahura is done when the yam is tender, the vegetables hold their shape and the gravy coats them. Serve with kanika or plain rice. Chef's tip: finish with a pinch of roasted cumin and dry red chilli powder ground together (bhaja masala), which Odia cooks add right at the end.

50 min

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Sing ni chikkiPeanut jaggery brittle

Peanut chikki is the sweet every Gujarati child grows up with, and in the week of Uttarayan, when the sky over Ahmedabad is crowded with kites, households make it by the tray to hand round on the terrace. Halved roasted peanuts are bound in dark jaggery and cut into neat slabs that snap cleanly and taste of caramel and toasted nuts. Common mistake: undercooking the jaggery; it is ready only when a drop in cold water hardens into a ball that cracks when pressed, and when the syrup is foaming and has darkened by a shade. Undercooked syrup gives chikki that bends and pulls out fillings. Chef's tip: rub the skins off the roasted peanuts and split them in half; halves pack together far better than whole nuts and the slabs don't crumble.

30 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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KamarkattuCoconut jaggery candy balls

Kamarkattu is the toffee of Tamil village shops, dark, chewy, caramel-scented balls of coconut and jaggery that cost a few paise in the days when children bought sweets one at a time. It's quick to make at home and keeps for a couple of weeks. The mistake is taking the jaggery too far: if the syrup hardens past the soft-ball stage, kamarkattu turns rock hard and pulls fillings. Chef's tip: test a drop in cold water; when it forms a soft ball you can squash, switch off and shape immediately.

30 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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ChalimidiRice flour and jaggery sweet

Chalimidi is a no-cook-flour sweet from Andhra and Telangana, offered to the goddess at Navaratri and Nagula Chavithi and handed out at naming ceremonies and baby showers. Soaked rice is dried, pounded into fresh flour and stirred into a thick jaggery syrup with coconut, so it sets into a soft, damp, slightly crumbly dough that is shaped into small balls. It tastes of molasses and cardamom and is eaten as it is, at room temperature. The most common mistake is undercooking the syrup: a thin syrup leaves the chalimidi sticky and pasty, so cook it to a firm soft-ball stage. Chef's tip: use freshly ground soaked rice, not shop rice flour; the slightly damp flour is what gives chalimidi its tender bite.

35 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Shakarkandi ka halwaSweet potato halwa

When winter sweet potatoes arrive in North Indian markets, they go straight into the Mahashivratri and Ekadashi fasting kitchen: boiled, mashed and slowly roasted in ghee with sugar and cardamom, they make a soft, fudgy halwa with a natural caramel sweetness. It is offered after the puja and eaten in small bowls, warm, often as the first thing that breaks a day without grains. A few communities do not eat sweet potato on a fast, so check your own tradition. Common mistake: hurrying the roasting; the halwa is ready only when the ghee starts to separate and glisten at the edges and the mixture rolls away from the sides of the pan as one soft mass. Chef's tip: steam or bake the sweet potatoes rather than boiling them in water; drier flesh roasts faster and gives a deeper flavour.

40 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Ezhu kari kootuSeven vegetable and dal curry

The partner to kali on Arudra Darshan morning is a kootu of seven (ezhu) vegetables, an old Tamil Brahmin custom that uses whatever native winter produce is at the market: pumpkin, ash gourd, raw plantain, sweet potato, broad beans, colocasia and chow-chow are a typical set, and no onion, garlic, tomato or 'English' vegetables go in. They simmer in tamarind water with soft toor dal and a paste of roasted coriander, chana dal, red chillies and coconut, giving a thick, tangy, gently hot stew that cuts the sweetness of the kali. Common mistake: adding tamarind before the vegetables are cooked, which keeps them hard; cook them first in plain water until a knife goes in easily, then add the tamarind and boil until its raw smell has gone. Chef's tip: roast the paste spices until the chana dal turns golden-red, which gives the kootu its depth.

60 min

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ManoharamRice flour sticks in jaggery syrup

Manoharam is a Chettinad sweet made for weddings and the sweet trays of Deepavali, often shaped into a tall cone for the bridal seer. Short, crisp sticks of rice and moong flour are pressed and fried, then tossed in a jaggery syrup cooked to the hard-ball stage, so the syrup sets around them into a crunchy, molasses-sweet cluster. It is eaten in small pieces with coffee and keeps for weeks. The usual mistake is undercooked syrup, which never sets and leaves the sticks soggy; test it in cold water until it snaps. Chef's tip: have the fried sticks warm and ready in a wide greased bowl before the syrup reaches the right stage, as it starts setting within a minute.

75 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Nuvvula saddiRice with roasted sesame powder

Each family takes several saddulu, flavoured rice dishes, to the lake on Saddula Bathukamma, the last evening of Telangana's flower festival, and swaps them with neighbours after the songs; sesame rice, lemon rice, peanut rice and coconut rice are the usual set. Nuvvula saddi is the nuttiest of them: freshly roasted sesame ground with dried red chilli, tossed through cooked rice with a tempering of mustard seeds, dals, peanuts and curry leaves. It is eaten at room temperature, so the grains must stay separate. Common mistake: grinding the sesame for too long, which turns it to oily paste; pulse only until it looks like coarse sand. The sesame is roasted enough when it crackles, turns light gold and one seed crushes easily between your fingers. Chef's tip: cook the rice a little firm and spread it on a plate to cool before mixing, so it does not break up.

25 min

Indian Rice & Grains

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Suran nu shaakYam with cumin and peanuts

Suran, the knobbly elephant-foot yam, is a favourite of the Gujarati farali table on Mahashivratri and Ekadashi: boiled until tender, then stir-fried with cumin, green chilli and crushed peanuts and sharpened with lemon. It is filling and earthy, a little like a dense potato, and goes well with rajgira thepla or farali kadhi. Because suran is a root vegetable it is not eaten by Jains, so this is a Hindu fasting dish only; some families also skip cumin on a fast. Raw suran contains crystals that make the hands and throat itch, so wear gloves when peeling and always boil it with something sour. Common mistake: under-boiling to keep the cubes firm; undercooked suran scratches the throat. Boil until a cube is soft right through when pierced. Chef's tip: a few pieces of kokum in the boiling water work as well as lemon and give a pleasant blush to the yam.

45 min

Indian Vegetarian

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Thiruvathirai kaliRice and moong dal with jaggery

On Arudra Darshan in the Tamil month of Margazhi, temples across Tamil Nadu, Chidambaram above all, celebrate Shiva as Nataraja, and homes offer him kali with ezhu kari kootu at dawn. The rice and a little moong dal are dry-roasted until fragrant, ground to a coarse rava and then cooked in jaggery water until soft and set, a loose, grainy sweet rather than a smooth halwa. Grated coconut, cardamom and plenty of ghee finish it. Common mistake: grinding the roasted rice to a fine flour, which cooks into a sticky paste; you want grains like fine semolina, and the kali is done when it leaves the sides of the pan and the ghee glistens on top. Chef's tip: roast the rice only until it smells like popcorn and turns faintly golden; any darker and the kali tastes bitter.

50 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Thunka puriGiant puffed puris

Every Kartik Purnima, Cuttack holds Bali Jatra on the banks of the Mahanadi, a huge open-air fair that remembers the Odia sailors who once set off for Bali and Java; families float little paper and banana-bark boats at dawn and spend the day eating at the stalls. Thunka puri is the fair's famous snack: puris rolled as big as a plate, which balloon into hollow golden domes in the oil and are torn open over a bowl of hot ghugni (yellow pea curry), onion and tamarind chutney. Common mistake: oil that is not hot enough or dough that is too soft; the puri then drinks oil and stays flat. Get the oil to about 190 °C, so a pinch of dough rises at once, and it is done when it is puffed and pale gold on both sides. Chef's tip: slide the puri in, then gently press the centre with a slotted spoon and splash hot oil over the top; it will puff fully within seconds.

45 min

Indian Breads & Parathas

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Then mittaiSyrup-soaked rice and urad balls

Then mittai, 'honey sweets', were sold from glass jars at the petti kadai outside every Tamil village school in the 1980s and 90s, glossy red balls that crunch and then squirt sweet syrup. They're nostalgic now and great fun to make at home for children's parties. The mistake is frying too hot, which browns the outside before the centre cooks; they should fry slowly to a crisp shell. Chef's tip: let the fried balls cool for a minute before dropping them into warm, not hot, syrup so they stay crisp instead of going soggy.

60 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Maa ladduRoasted gram flour laddus

Maa laddu (maladu) is the simplest of the Tamil Deepavali sweets, made in a quarter of an hour from pottukadalai, the roasted split gram sold in every Tamil grocery. Ground with sugar and bound with hot ghee, it melts on the tongue, nutty and cardamom-scented, and it's the laddu grandmothers teach children to roll. The mistake is pouring cold or too little ghee: the powder won't bind and the balls crumble, so add it smoking hot and in stages. Chef's tip: warm the pottukadalai in a dry pan for two minutes before grinding; it brings out the toasty flavour and grinds finer.

23 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Urad dal khichdiRice and black lentil khichdi

Across Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, Makar Sankranti is simply called Khichdi: after a dip in the Ganga, raw rice and black urad dal are given away as alms, and the same two are cooked at home into this khichdi for lunch. Its four companions are part of the custom: 'khichdi ke chaar yaar, dahi, papad, ghee, achaar', so it comes to the table with curd, roasted papad, a spoon of ghee and pickle, often with aloo or baingan chokha too. The split urad with its black skin gives a creamy, earthy khichdi that is grey-brown and flecked with black. Common mistake: cooking it too dry; urad drinks up water, so it should be soft and loose enough to settle on the plate, and it is done when the dal grains crush easily. Chef's tip: let the cooker release naturally and rest 5 minutes before opening; the khichdi finishes softening in the steam.

50 min

Indian Rice & Grains

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Mangai pachadiRaw mango and jaggery relish

Every Tamil New Year plate in April has a small heap of mangai pachadi, sweet, sour, hot and bitter at once, so that the first meal of the year tastes of everything life will bring. Chunks of raw mango are cooked soft, simmered in jaggery and finished with a mustard tempering and a pinch of fried neem flowers. It is glossy and thick, eaten in small spoonfuls with rice, sambar and payasam. The common mistake is cooking it down too far: it thickens a lot as it cools, so stop when the syrup coats the spoon but still drips off slowly. Cook the mango first until a piece mashes easily; jaggery added to hard mango stops it softening. Chef's tip: choose firm, very sour mangoes; sweet, half-ripe ones go mushy and lose the sharp contrast.

30 min

Indian Chutneys & Dips

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Shakkariya nu shaakSweet potato with peanuts

Gujarati families keeping the Mahashivratri upvas often fill the thali with shakkariya nu shaak, a quick dry curry of sweet potato cubes tempered with cumin and green chilli, finished with crushed roasted peanuts, a little sugar and a squeeze of lemon. It is sweet, tangy and gently hot, and is eaten with rajgira puri, sabudana khichdi or a bowl of farali kadhi. Only rock salt and green chilli are used here; many households avoid turmeric and red chilli powder on fasting days, and some do not eat cumin either, so adjust to your own family's custom. Common mistake: stirring too hard once the cubes soften, which turns the shaak into mash; turn gently, and stop cooking when a cube gives way when pressed but still holds its shape. Chef's tip: soak the cubes in water while you prepare the rest; it rinses off surface starch so they brown instead of sticking.

28 min

Indian Vegetarian

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Vishu kattaCoconut milk rice squares

Around Thrissur and Palakkad the Vishu breakfast table is not complete without katta, rice cooked slowly in coconut milk until it can be spread on a plate, set and cut like a cake. Families eat the squares two ways: with a pour of dark jaggery syrup for sweetness, or with a hot, sour curry for those who prefer savoury on a festival morning. Set, it is soft, rich and faintly salty, with the scent of cumin. The common mistake is rushing it on a high flame; the coconut milk splits and the rice catches before it turns creamy. It is ready when the whole mass comes away from the sides of the pan and holds a ridge when you draw a spoon through it. Chef's tip: smooth the top with a piece of banana leaf or the back of a wet spoon, and cut the katta only once it is fully cool, or the squares will tear.

50 min

Indian Rice & Grains

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RasiyaJaggery rice kheer

On the evening of Kharna, the second day of Chhath in Bihar and eastern Uttar Pradesh, the vrati who has fasted since dawn cooks rasiya on a new clay chulha over mango wood: arwa rice simmered in milk with jaggery, offered to Chhathi Maiya and eaten with ghee-smeared roti before the 36-hour waterless fast begins. It is pale brown, creamy and tastes of caramel and milk. Common mistake: adding jaggery while the milk is boiling hard, which curdles it; take the pan off the heat, let it calm, then stir in the jaggery, and the kheer is ready when the rice is completely soft and it coats the spoon. Chef's tip: many families cook it with no salt and in a separate pan from everyday cooking; do the same if you are making it for the puja.

60 min

Indian Indian Sweets

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Obbattu saaruSpiced dal water rasam

Gowri Habba, Karnataka's version of Hartalika, comes the day before Ganesha Chaturthi, and the feast centres on obbattu (holige), flatbreads stuffed with chana dal and jaggery. Nothing goes to waste: the water the dal was boiled in, plus a spoon of the sweet filling, becomes obbattu saaru, a thin, sweet-sour-spicy rasam with tamarind, a coconut-spice paste and a mustard tadka, poured over rice beside the holige. Common mistake: boiling it hard after the coconut paste goes in, which dulls the flavour and makes it split; bring it just to a froth on top and switch off. Chef's tip: if you are not making holige, boil 50 g chana dal in 700 ml water, keep the water and mash a spoon of the dal with a little jaggery as the 'filling'.

30 min

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