Heidesand

Step 1: Melt 9 oz unsalted butter in a light-coloured pan over medium heat. Let it foam and crackle, swirling, until the milk solids at the bottom turn hazelnut brown and it smells nutty, 5–7 minutes.

Step 2: Pour into a bowl, scraping in the brown bits, and chill for about 25 minutes, stirring once or twice, until it has set to the texture of soft butter.

Step 3: Beat the set brown butter with 5 ½ oz caster sugar, 1 tsp vanilla extract and ¼ tsp salt for 2 minutes until pale. Beat in 2 tbsp milk.

Step 4: Add 12 ½ oz plain flour and mix on low, then with your hands, just until it holds together; it should feel like damp sand.

Step 5: Divide in two and roll each piece into a log about 4 cm across. Scatter 1 ¾ oz demerara sugar on the work surface and roll the logs in it until coated.

Step 6: Wrap and freeze for 15 minutes (or chill for 1 hour) until firm enough to slice cleanly.

Step 7: Heat the oven to 350°F (325°F fan) and line two trays with baking paper.

Step 8: Slice the logs into 7 mm rounds and set them 2 cm apart on the trays.

Step 9: Bake for 12–14 minutes, until the edges are light golden and firm and the centres still look pale.

Step 10: Leave on the trays for 10 minutes, because they are fragile when hot, then cool on a rack. They keep for two weeks in a tin.