Wensi tofu soup

Step 1: Squeeze 4 dried shiitake mushrooms dry, remove the stalks and cut the caps into fine threads. Pour off 200 ml of the soaking water, leaving the grit behind, and add it to 2 ½ cups vegetable stock.

Step 2: Slice the skin off all six sides of 14 oz firm silken tofu with a wet knife. Slice the block lengthways into sheets as thin as you can manage, ideally 1 mm, letting them fall over like a deck of cards.

Step 3: Press the slices gently into a fanned stack and cut down through them into very fine threads, again with one smooth stroke per cut.

Step 4: Slide the knife under the shredded tofu and lower it into a large bowl of cold water. Swirl gently with chopsticks so the threads float apart. Common mistake: stirring hard here or later, which breaks the threads into crumbs.

Step 5: Bring the stock to a simmer with the shiitake, 1 ¾ oz bamboo shoots and ½ carrot and cook for 3 minutes, until the carrot is tender. Season with ¾ tsp salt and ¼ tsp ground white pepper.

Step 6: Stir in 2 tbsp cornflour and simmer for 1 minute, until the broth turns slightly silky and clear. Add 3 pak choi or spinach leaves.

Step 7: Lift the tofu threads out of the water with a slotted spoon and lower them into the pot. Push them very gently with the back of a ladle for 1 minute, just until hot. Ladle into bowls and add a drop of ½ tsp toasted sesame oil to each.