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767 recipes

X-tudoBurger with everything

The x-tudo (say 'shee-TOO-doo'; 'x' sounds like 'cheese' in Portuguese) is the late-night king of Brazilian lanchonetes (snack bars) and street food trailers in São Paulo, Curitiba and Rio, eaten after football or a night out. A soft bun is stacked with a beef patty, melted cheese, ham, bacon, a fried egg, lettuce, tomato, sweetcorn and crunchy potato sticks, all held together with mayonnaise. It contains pork (ham and bacon) and egg. The common mistake is building it on a cold bun: toast the cut sides in the burger fat so they don't go soggy under all the fillings. The patty is done when there's no pink in the middle and it reaches 71 °C. Cook the egg until the white is fully set; for anyone pregnant, a young child or older or vulnerable people, cook the yolk firm too. Chef's tip: press the bun flat on the hot plate with a spatula for 20 seconds once built, the way lanchonetes do; it melts everything together.

35 min

Brazilian Fast Food

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Pescado a lo machoFried fish in spicy seafood sauce

Pescado a lo macho is a classic of Lima's seafood restaurants, the dish people order for a long Sunday lunch near the sea in Chorrillos: a fillet of fried white fish smothered in a thick, spicy sauce of ají panca and ají amarillo packed with prawns, squid and mussels. The name boasts that you need to be brave for the chilli, but you can turn it down. The common mistake is overcooking the seafood while the sauce reduces; add it only when the sauce is already thick. Discard mussels that are open and do not close when tapped, and any that stay shut after cooking. Chef's tip: dust the fish in flour seasoned with cumin and fry it last, so it reaches the table crisp under the sauce.

55 min

Peruvian Fish

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Crema volteadaBaked caramel custard

In Lima, crema volteada is the dessert that appears at Sunday lunch in Miraflores and Barranco homes and at every birthday where an aunt is in charge of the sweets. It is firmer and richer than a Spanish flan because it is made with both evaporated and condensed milk, so it slices cleanly and tastes of toffee. The usual mistake is baking it in an oven that is too hot: the custard boils, fills with tiny holes and weeps. Keep the water bath at a bare simmer and take it out while the centre still wobbles slightly. Chef's tip: chill it overnight before turning it out; a cold custard releases in one piece and the caramel has time to melt into a pourable sauce.

80 min

Peruvian Desserts

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Tamales peruanosChicken corn tamales in banana leaf

In Lima, tamales are a Sunday breakfast, bought warm from street vendors calling 'tamaleeeeros' or made at home for Christmas, and eaten with crusty bread and a pile of salsa criolla. Peruvian tamales are larger and softer than Mexican ones, made from corn dough coloured with ají and wrapped in banana leaves, hiding chicken, a black olive, a slice of egg and a peanut. Peanuts are an allergen, so leave them out if needed. The usual mistake is a dry dough: the tamales turn crumbly. Beat in enough warm stock to make a soft paste that just holds its shape. The chicken must reach 74 °C before it goes in. Chef's tip: fat makes the dough tender; beat the oil and dough for a full 5 minutes until light, as Lima cooks do with pork lard.

150 min

Peruvian Chicken

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BrigadeirãoBaked chocolate fudge pudding

Brigadeirão is the big, sliceable version of the brigadeiro, the chocolate fudge ball found at every Brazilian children's birthday party. Home cooks in São Paulo and Rio bake it in a ring tin in a water bath for Sunday lunch desserts and family parties: condensed milk, cocoa, eggs, cream and butter set into a dense, fudgy, truffle-like pudding, then it is turned out and showered with chocolate sprinkles. The common mistake is unmoulding it warm: it tears and slumps. It needs at least 4 hours in the fridge to firm up. It is done when the edges are set, the centre wobbles only slightly, and a skewer comes out with moist crumbs, not liquid. The eggs are fully baked. It contains milk and egg. Chef's tip: wrap the outside of the tin in foil and use hot, not boiling, water in the bath; it stops the pudding curdling into bubbles at the edges.

75 min

Brazilian Desserts

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Lomo saltadoBeef stir-fry with chips

Lomo saltado was born in the chifas of central Lima, where Chinese cooks met Peruvian ingredients, and today it is the lunch every Peruvian family makes when they want something fast and a little indulgent. Strips of beef are seared in a smoking-hot wok with red onion, tomato and yellow chilli, splashed with soy sauce and vinegar, then tossed with chips and served beside white rice, so you get both starches on one plate. The common mistake is crowding the wok: the beef stews in its juices and turns grey and chewy instead of charring. Cook it in two batches over the highest heat you have. Chef's tip: add the chips at the very last second, or serve them on the side, so they soak up a little sauce but stay crisp.

45 min

Peruvian Meat

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Torta de limãoLime meringue pie

Torta de limão is one of Brazil's best-loved desserts, made in home kitchens from São Paulo to Belo Horizonte for birthdays and Sunday lunch, and sold by the slice in padarias (bakeries). A crumbly crust of butter biscuits holds a no-cook filling of condensed milk and plenty of lime juice that thickens like magic, topped with a cloud of glossy meringue that is browned in the oven. Brazilian limes (limão taiti) are juicy and very sharp, so use fresh limes, never bottled juice. The usual mistake is adding all the lime juice at once: pour it in gradually while whisking, or the filling can turn grainy. The meringue is done when the peaks are golden brown. For anyone pregnant, very young, older or with a weakened immune system, make sure the meringue is well browned and the egg whites cooked. Chef's tip: grate the zest over the filling just before the meringue goes on; the fragrant oils stay bright.

55 min

Brazilian Desserts

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Arroz tapadoRice dome with beef filling

Arroz tapado means covered rice, and it is the thrifty weekday lunch of Lima homes and school canteens: garlic rice pressed into a bowl, filled with a sweet-savoury beef mince and turned out like a dome. The filling of minced beef with onion, ají panca, raisins, black olives and hard-boiled egg is the same picadillo that goes into papas rellenas. The usual mistake is leaving the filling wet: the dome collapses and the rice turns soggy. Simmer it until the pan is almost dry. Minced beef must reach 71 °C, so cook it until no pink remains. Serve with a spoonful of salsa criolla. Chef's tip: brush the bowl with a little oil and pack the rice firmly with the back of a spoon; a well-pressed dome holds its shape on the plate.

60 min

Peruvian Meat

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Arroz con mariscosSeafood rice

Arroz con mariscos is the weekend dish of Callao and the beach towns south of Lima, served in cevicherías as the hot partner to a cold ceviche. It is moister than a paella, closer to a risotto, coloured with ají panca and ají amarillo and finished with peas and a little Parmesan-style cheese, as many Lima cooks do. The common mistake is adding all the seafood at the start: the squid turns rubbery and the prawns shrink to nothing. Cook the rice first and add the shellfish only for the final minutes. Discard any mussels that are open before cooking and do not close when tapped, and any that stay shut after cooking. The cheese is often made with animal rennet; use a vegetarian hard cheese if you prefer. Chef's tip: simmer the prawn shells in the stock for 10 minutes; they give the rice its deep seafood taste.

60 min

Peruvian Fish

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Sopa criollaCreamy beef noodle soup

Sopa criolla is the soup Lima turns to on grey winter evenings, when the garúa mist hangs over the city: a beef broth reddened with ají panca, full of thin noodles and strips of beef, enriched with evaporated milk and finished with a poached egg. It arrives with toasted bread for dunking. The common mistake is boiling the soup after adding the milk; it splits into specks. Lower the heat first and stir it in gently. The beef strips are thin, so they cook through in a few minutes. Chef's tip: crack the eggs straight into the barely simmering soup and leave them alone for three minutes; the whites set into soft ribbons that thicken the broth.

45 min

Peruvian Soups

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Ceviche peruanoLime-cured white fish

Ceviche is Peru's national dish, eaten at lunchtime in the cevicherías of Lima's Surquillo and Chorrillos markets, because the fish must be fresh off the morning boats and cevicherías traditionally close in the afternoon. The classic is raw white fish 'cooked' in lime juice with red onion, chilli and coriander, served with sweet potato and corn. Lime juice does not kill bacteria or parasites, so this version first poaches the fish for a minute until just opaque, then dresses it, which keeps the classic flavour and texture far safer. Even so, it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. The usual mistake is leaving the fish in the lime for an hour: it turns chalky and the juice goes bitter. Chef's tip: squeeze the limes gently by hand and stop before the pith; over-squeezed limes make bitter leche de tigre.

40 min

Peruvian Fish

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Strogonoff de frangoCreamy chicken stroganoff

Brazil adopted Russia's stroganoff and made it its own: strogonoff de frango is everyday family food in São Paulo, Rio and all over the country, cooked for weeknight dinners and Sunday lunch and served with fluffy white rice and a pile of crunchy potato sticks (batata palha) on top. Strips of chicken are seared, then simmered in a pink, gently tangy sauce of tomato, ketchup, mustard and mushrooms, finished with cream. It is mild, so children love it. The common mistake is boiling the sauce after adding the cream: it can split and turn grainy. Stir it in at the end over a low heat. The chicken is done when no pink remains and the thickest piece reaches 74 °C. Chef's tip: brown the chicken in two batches in a very hot pan; the golden bits on the bottom dissolve into the sauce and give it real depth.

30 min

Brazilian Chicken

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Mandioca fritaFried cassava

Mandioca frita, called aipim in Rio and macaxeira in the Northeast, is a must at Brazilian botecos (neighbourhood bars), served in a basket with lime and a little hot sauce on Friday nights, or alongside picanha at a Sunday churrasco. Fat cassava batons are boiled until tender, then fried until the outside crackles and the inside is fluffy, like the best chips you have ever had. Cassava must never be eaten raw: peel off all the brown bark and pink layer and boil it until completely soft right through. The usual mistake is frying it before it is fully tender; it stays hard and woody in the middle. Boil until a knife meets no resistance and the batons start to split. Chef's tip: let the boiled cassava cool and dry completely on a rack, or even chill it overnight; dry cassava fries crisper and splatters less.

55 min

Brazilian Sides

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Pan con butifarraHam roll with onion salsa

Pan con butifarra is Lima's evening sandwich, sold in old-school sangucherías and made at home for a light dinner with coffee: a crusty roll filled with jamón del país, a spiced Peruvian pork ham, under a heap of salsa criolla, red onion sliced thin and soaked in lime with chilli. Outside Peru, use a good cooked pork ham. The common mistake is leaving the onion harsh; give it a quick rinse in salted water before dressing it. Chef's tip: a leaf of lettuce under the ham stops the lime juice soaking straight into the bread.

10 min

Peruvian Meat

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MexidãoRice and beans scrambled with egg

Mexidão, the 'big mix-up', is a late-night favourite in Belo Horizonte and the farm kitchens of Minas Gerais: yesterday's rice and beans fried in one pan with onion and garlic, scrambled with egg, tossed with finely shredded couve and finished with toasted cassava flour. Many versions add bacon or sausage; this one stays vegetarian and is just as satisfying. Leftover rice is only safe if it was cooled within an hour of cooking and kept in the fridge, and it must be reheated until piping hot. The common mistake is piling everything into a cold, crowded pan so it turns mushy instead of crisping at the edges. Chef's tip: toast the cassava flour in the pan until it smells a little like popcorn before adding it.

15 min

Brazilian Rice & Grains

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GrießbreiSemolina porridge

Grießbrei is the soft, sweet semolina pudding that German and Austrian families from Bavaria to Vienna eat warm as a light supper on cold evenings, especially when children are tired or someone is under the weather. Semolina is rained into hot milk and stirred until thick and velvety, then topped with cinnamon sugar, a knob of butter or stewed fruit. The classic mistake is tipping the semolina in all at once, which makes lumps that never smooth out. Chef's tip: take it off the heat while it still looks a little runny, because it keeps thickening on the plate.

10 min

German Breakfast & Brunch

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BeiruteRoast beef and egg pita sandwich

The beirute was born in São Paulo's Lebanese-run lanchonetes and is now a late-night dinner order all over the city: a whole pita split, filled with thin roast beef, melting cheese, tomato, lettuce and a fried egg, toasted on the griddle and cut into wedges with a sprinkle of za'atar or oregano. The common mistake is overloading it with wet lettuce and tomato before toasting, which steams the bread soft; add them after. Chef's tip: toast the pita cut-side down in the pan first so the inside is crisp and keeps the juices out.

15 min

Brazilian Fast Food

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TripleAvocado, tomato and egg sandwich

The triple is the soft, layered sandwich of Lima's cafés and bakeries, eaten at lonche, the Peruvian late-afternoon meal, or as a light supper: three slices of crustless white bread layered with avocado, tomato and sliced hard-boiled egg, all held together with mayonnaise. It looks neat, tastes fresh and is loved by children. Shop-bought mayonnaise is made with pasteurised egg, so it is safe for everyone. The common mistake is letting wet tomato touch the bread, which turns it soggy within minutes. Chef's tip: pat the tomato dry and sit it between the avocado and egg, then press the sandwich under a board for a minute before cutting.

15 min

Peruvian Snacks & Starters

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DresilSweet rice with butter and raisins

On the first morning of Losar, Tibetan and Sherpa households in the Himalaya and in Kathmandu greet the year with a bowl of dresil: rice tossed with melted butter, sugar, raisins and droma, the small sweet roots of a wild silverweed gathered on the high pastures. It is eaten with butter tea before visits begin, and a little is offered at the family shrine first. The rice is fluffy and glossy, gently sweet and buttery, with chewy bursts of fruit. The common mistake is cooking the sugar in with the rice, which makes it sticky and likely to catch; cook the rice plain, then fold everything in. It is ready when every grain is coated and separate and the raisins have plumped. Chef's tip: droma is hard to find outside Tibetan shops; chopped dried dates and a few toasted cashews give a similar sweet, earthy chew.

40 min

Nepali Rice & Grains

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GuthukNine-ingredient noodle soup

Two nights before Losar, Sherpa and Tibetan families in the Himalaya and Kathmandu sit down to guthuk, a thick soup made with nine ingredients to clear away the old year's bad luck. Mixed among the little hand-pinched dough pieces are larger balls, each hiding a token: a chilli for a sharp tongue, salt for an easy-going nature, a peppercorn, a scrap of paper or white wool for a kind heart, and everyone laughs at what they find. A little soup is left in each bowl and carried out of the house with a dough figure to take misfortune away. This vegan version is gingery, peppery and hearty, with radish, greens, beans and rice. The common mistake is adding the dough pieces too early so they swell and go slimy; drop them in near the end and cook just until they float and turn glossy. Chef's tip: warn everyone about the tokens before they eat, use only large, unmistakable ones, and leave them out for small children.

75 min

Nepali Soups

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BhuttanFried goat tripe and offal

In Nepal, Dashain is the longest and most important festival of the year, and the meat dishes made in its days of family feasting use every part of the goat; bhuttan, made from the tripe, intestines and liver, is the snack that comes out first with a glass of something and a plate of beaten rice. This recipe uses offal bought ready cleaned from a butcher: the tripe and intestines are boiled until tender, then fried hard in mustard oil with fenugreek seeds, onion, garlic, ginger, cumin, coriander and chilli until browned and crisp at the edges, with the liver added only at the end. Common mistake: frying the tripe before it is tender, which makes it rubbery; boil it until a fork goes in easily, and cook the whole dish until the pieces are browned and the masala clings with the oil separating, at least 71 °C in the centre and the liver with no pink. Keep raw offal chilled and use within a day. Chef's tip: a pinch of crushed timur (Sichuan-style Nepali pepper) at the end gives the tingle Nepali cooks love.

80 min

Nepali Meat

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Dowina (Kurdish yogurt soup)

Dowina, called ash-e doogh in Persian, is warming spring food in Kurdish homes around Newroz, when yogurt is plentiful and the first herbs are cut from the garden. Rice and chickpeas simmer in a tangy, lightly thickened yogurt broth, finished with fresh dill, coriander and a sizzle of dried mint in oil. It is eaten warm, never boiling hot, with flatbread. The common mistake is to heat the yogurt too fast without stirring, which makes it split into grainy curds. Chef's tip: whisk an egg yolk and a spoonful of rice flour into the yogurt before it goes on the heat; it holds the soup smooth all the way to the simmer.

75 minMiddle Eastern Soups

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OsterpinzeEaster anise brioche

Osterpinze is the Easter bread of Styria, Carinthia and the area around Trieste, a soft, golden brioche dome with three deep cuts on top for the Holy Trinity, so that it opens into a crown as it bakes. The dough is rich with egg yolks and butter and flavoured with anise and lemon; old recipes add a splash of white wine, left out here. It is blessed in the Easter basket on Holy Saturday and eaten on Easter morning with ham, horseradish and eggs, or with butter and jam. Chef's tip: make the three cuts with scissors just before baking, deep enough to reach halfway down, so the crown opens wide.

75 min

Austrian Baking

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HeringssalatPickled herring and beetroot salad

When the carnival ends in the Rhineland and northern Germany, Ash Wednesday brings the Heringsessen, a herring meal shared in pubs and homes to mark the start of the Lenten fast. This rosy salad mixes diced pickled herring with beetroot, apple, gherkin and boiled potato in a creamy yogurt-mayonnaise dressing, and is served with rye bread. Use pickled herring bought ready-made in jars from the chiller, which has been commercially cured, and keep the salad in the fridge. Pickled and cured fish is not cooked, so it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system; for a safer version use hot-smoked mackerel or cooked fish. The common mistake is dressing the salad while the potatoes are hot, which turns it mushy. Chef's tip: make it the day before; the flavours deepen overnight.

55 min

German Salads

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