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610 recipes

Pescado a lo machoFried fish in spicy seafood sauce

Pescado a lo macho is a classic of Lima's seafood restaurants, the dish people order for a long Sunday lunch near the sea in Chorrillos: a fillet of fried white fish smothered in a thick, spicy sauce of ají panca and ají amarillo packed with prawns, squid and mussels. The name boasts that you need to be brave for the chilli, but you can turn it down. The common mistake is overcooking the seafood while the sauce reduces; add it only when the sauce is already thick. Discard mussels that are open and do not close when tapped, and any that stay shut after cooking. Chef's tip: dust the fish in flour seasoned with cumin and fry it last, so it reaches the table crisp under the sauce.

55 min

Peruvian Fish

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Tarta pascualinaSpinach and egg pie

Tarta pascualina came to Buenos Aires and Montevideo with Ligurian immigrants, and it is still baked for Easter (Pascua, hence the name), though most porteños now buy or make it any weekday for a light supper with a tomato salad. A crisp, olive-oil crust holds chard or spinach bound with ricotta and cheese, with whole eggs baked into hollows so every slice shows a ring of yolk. The usual mistake is not squeezing the greens: the filling floods and the base goes soggy. Wring them in a clean tea towel until no more water drips. Hard cheeses such as Parmesan are usually made with animal rennet; use a vegetarian hard cheese if you prefer. Chef's tip: bake the tart on the lowest shelf on a hot baking sheet so the bottom crust browns as well as the top.

90 min

Argentinian Vegetarian

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Cazuela de mariscosCoconut seafood stew

In Cartagena's old walled city and the beach kiosks of Bocagrande, cazuela de mariscos is the seafood dish to share on a hot afternoon: a rich stew of fish, prawns, squid and mussels in coconut milk and cream, coloured with a little tomato and served with coconut rice and fried green plantain (patacones). The common mistake is boiling the seafood in the sauce until it toughens. Build the sauce first, then add the seafood in order of cooking time for just a few minutes. Discard any mussels that are open and do not close when tapped, and any that stay shut after cooking. Chef's tip: a splash of the mussel cooking liquid stirred in at the end gives the cazuela its sea-salty depth without extra salt.

55 min

Colombian Fish

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Ceviche peruanoLime-cured white fish

Ceviche is Peru's national dish, eaten at lunchtime in the cevicherías of Lima's Surquillo and Chorrillos markets, because the fish must be fresh off the morning boats and cevicherías traditionally close in the afternoon. The classic is raw white fish 'cooked' in lime juice with red onion, chilli and coriander, served with sweet potato and corn. Lime juice does not kill bacteria or parasites, so this version first poaches the fish for a minute until just opaque, then dresses it, which keeps the classic flavour and texture far safer. Even so, it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. The usual mistake is leaving the fish in the lime for an hour: it turns chalky and the juice goes bitter. Chef's tip: squeeze the limes gently by hand and stop before the pith; over-squeezed limes make bitter leche de tigre.

40 min

Peruvian Fish

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Arroz con mariscosSeafood rice

Arroz con mariscos is the weekend dish of Callao and the beach towns south of Lima, served in cevicherías as the hot partner to a cold ceviche. It is moister than a paella, closer to a risotto, coloured with ají panca and ají amarillo and finished with peas and a little Parmesan-style cheese, as many Lima cooks do. The common mistake is adding all the seafood at the start: the squid turns rubbery and the prawns shrink to nothing. Cook the rice first and add the shellfish only for the final minutes. Discard any mussels that are open before cooking and do not close when tapped, and any that stay shut after cooking. The cheese is often made with animal rennet; use a vegetarian hard cheese if you prefer. Chef's tip: simmer the prawn shells in the stock for 10 minutes; they give the rice its deep seafood taste.

60 min

Peruvian Fish

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Pizza de muzzarellaThick-crust mozzarella pizza

The pizza de muzzarella, or simply muzza, is the pride of Buenos Aires' old pizzerías along Avenida Corrientes, eaten standing at the counter after the theatre, often with a slice of fainá on top. Unlike a Neapolitan pizza it has a thick, soft, bready base baked in a round metal pan, a thin smear of oregano tomato sauce and a deep layer of mozzarella that bubbles and browns, finished with green olives. The common mistake is using fresh mozzarella balls: they release water and the pizza swims. Use firm, low-moisture mozzarella grated or sliced thick. Many mozzarellas use animal rennet; choose a vegetarian one if you prefer. Chef's tip: give the dough a second rise in the oiled pan, so the base bakes airy inside and fried-crisp underneath.

45 min

Argentinian Pizza

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Tamales peruanosChicken corn tamales in banana leaf

In Lima, tamales are a Sunday breakfast, bought warm from street vendors calling 'tamaleeeeros' or made at home for Christmas, and eaten with crusty bread and a pile of salsa criolla. Peruvian tamales are larger and softer than Mexican ones, made from corn dough coloured with ají and wrapped in banana leaves, hiding chicken, a black olive, a slice of egg and a peanut. Peanuts are an allergen, so leave them out if needed. The usual mistake is a dry dough: the tamales turn crumbly. Beat in enough warm stock to make a soft paste that just holds its shape. The chicken must reach 74 °C before it goes in. Chef's tip: fat makes the dough tender; beat the oil and dough for a full 5 minutes until light, as Lima cooks do with pork lard.

150 min

Peruvian Chicken

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Bife de chorizoGrilled sirloin steak with chimichurri

Bife de chorizo, despite the name, has nothing to do with sausage: it is the thick sirloin (strip loin) steak that every parrilla in Buenos Aires grills, from the steakhouses of Palermo to the roadside grills of the pampas, and it is the Saturday-night order for anyone who wants beef and nothing else. It is cut at least 3 cm thick, seasoned only with coarse salt and grilled over hot embers, then served with chimichurri and a simple tomato and onion salad. The common mistake is cooking it straight from the fridge and turning it constantly; it greys outside and stays raw in the middle. Bring it to room temperature for 30 minutes and turn it only once. Chef's tip: salt the steak with coarse salt only just before it goes on the grill, and cut into it only after a 5-minute rest.

55 min

Argentinian Meat

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Sopa criollaCreamy beef noodle soup

Sopa criolla is the soup Lima turns to on grey winter evenings, when the garúa mist hangs over the city: a beef broth reddened with ají panca, full of thin noodles and strips of beef, enriched with evaporated milk and finished with a poached egg. It arrives with toasted bread for dunking. The common mistake is boiling the soup after adding the milk; it splits into specks. Lower the heat first and stir it in gently. The beef strips are thin, so they cook through in a few minutes. Chef's tip: crack the eggs straight into the barely simmering soup and leave them alone for three minutes; the whites set into soft ribbons that thicken the broth.

45 min

Peruvian Soups

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Lomo saltadoBeef stir-fry with chips

Lomo saltado was born in the chifas of central Lima, where Chinese cooks met Peruvian ingredients, and today it is the lunch every Peruvian family makes when they want something fast and a little indulgent. Strips of beef are seared in a smoking-hot wok with red onion, tomato and yellow chilli, splashed with soy sauce and vinegar, then tossed with chips and served beside white rice, so you get both starches on one plate. The common mistake is crowding the wok: the beef stews in its juices and turns grey and chewy instead of charring. Cook it in two batches over the highest heat you have. Chef's tip: add the chips at the very last second, or serve them on the side, so they soak up a little sauce but stay crisp.

45 min

Peruvian Meat

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Canelones de verduraSpinach and ricotta crêpe cannelloni

In Argentina, Sunday lunch at the nonna's house in Rosario or Buenos Aires often means canelones, a legacy of Italian immigrants made the Río de la Plata way: thin crêpes instead of pasta tubes, rolled around chard and ricotta, then baked under tomato sauce and béchamel. They are often served on the 29th of the month or for Christmas too. The common mistake is thick crêpes: they turn stodgy. The batter should be as thin as single cream and the pancakes almost see-through. Hard cheeses are usually made with animal rennet; use a vegetarian hard cheese if you prefer. Chef's tip: roll the canelones and chill them for an hour before saucing; they hold their shape better in the oven.

80 min

Argentinian Vegetarian

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Arroz tapadoRice dome with beef filling

Arroz tapado means covered rice, and it is the thrifty weekday lunch of Lima homes and school canteens: garlic rice pressed into a bowl, filled with a sweet-savoury beef mince and turned out like a dome. The filling of minced beef with onion, ají panca, raisins, black olives and hard-boiled egg is the same picadillo that goes into papas rellenas. The usual mistake is leaving the filling wet: the dome collapses and the rice turns soggy. Simmer it until the pan is almost dry. Minced beef must reach 71 °C, so cook it until no pink remains. Serve with a spoonful of salsa criolla. Chef's tip: brush the bowl with a little oil and pack the rice firmly with the back of a spoon; a well-pressed dome holds its shape on the plate.

60 min

Peruvian Meat

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Crema volteadaBaked caramel custard

In Lima, crema volteada is the dessert that appears at Sunday lunch in Miraflores and Barranco homes and at every birthday where an aunt is in charge of the sweets. It is firmer and richer than a Spanish flan because it is made with both evaporated and condensed milk, so it slices cleanly and tastes of toffee. The usual mistake is baking it in an oven that is too hot: the custard boils, fills with tiny holes and weeps. Keep the water bath at a bare simmer and take it out while the centre still wobbles slightly. Chef's tip: chill it overnight before turning it out; a cold custard releases in one piece and the caramel has time to melt into a pourable sauce.

80 min

Peruvian Desserts

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Sancocho de gallinaChicken soup with yuca and plantain

Sancocho de gallina is the soup Colombians cook in a huge pot for Sunday family gatherings, river outings in the Valle del Cauca and New Year's Day, often over a wood fire. A hen is simmered with corn on the cob, yuca, green plantain and potatoes until the starchy vegetables thicken the broth, then everything is served in deep bowls with rice, avocado and ají on the side. This version uses a whole chicken, which cooks faster than a laying hen. Yuca (cassava) must always be fully cooked until soft right through, never eaten raw or underdone. The common mistake is adding all the vegetables at once: the potato turns to mush before the yuca is tender. Add them in stages. Chef's tip: break the green plantain into chunks with your hands instead of cutting it; the rough edges release starch and give the broth its body.

115 min

Colombian Soups

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SobrebarrigaBraised beef flank in tomato sauce

Sobrebarriga is a Bogotá Sunday lunch: beef flank (the thin covering of the belly, which is what the name means) braised for hours with beer, onion and herbs until it can be cut with a spoon, then finished in a rich hogao of tomato and onion. Families in the Andean highlands serve it with salt potatoes, rice and a slice of avocado. The common mistake is hurrying the braise: flank stays stringy until it has cooked for at least two and a half hours. Simmer it gently until a fork slides in easily. The beer cooks for a long time, so most of the alcohol is driven off but not all; for an alcohol-free version use beef stock with 1 tbsp of brown sugar. Chef's tip: after braising, brush the meat with mustard and give it 15 minutes in a hot oven for a browned, slightly crisp top.

200 min

Colombian Meat

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Huevos pericosScrambled eggs with tomato and onion

Huevos pericos are the everyday breakfast of Colombian homes from Medellín to Bogotá, made before school and work and eaten with a warm arepa and a cup of hot chocolate or tinto coffee. The name comes from the parakeet (perico), for the flecks of green spring onion and red tomato through the yellow egg. The secret is a quick hogao-style base: the onion and tomato are softened first, then the eggs are folded through over a low heat so they stay creamy. The common mistake is high heat, which turns the eggs dry and rubbery. Cook them slowly and take them off while still glossy. If you are cooking for anyone pregnant, a young child or an older person, cook until fully set. Chef's tip: use the long green tops of the spring onion as well as the white; Colombian cebolla larga is all about that mild green flavour.

15 min

Colombian Breakfast & Brunch

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TripleAvocado, tomato and egg sandwich

The triple is the soft, layered sandwich of Lima's cafés and bakeries, eaten at lonche, the Peruvian late-afternoon meal, or as a light supper: three slices of crustless white bread layered with avocado, tomato and sliced hard-boiled egg, all held together with mayonnaise. It looks neat, tastes fresh and is loved by children. Shop-bought mayonnaise is made with pasteurised egg, so it is safe for everyone. The common mistake is letting wet tomato touch the bread, which turns it soggy within minutes. Chef's tip: pat the tomato dry and sit it between the avocado and egg, then press the sandwich under a board for a minute before cutting.

15 min

Peruvian Snacks & Starters

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Revuelto de zapallitosCourgettes scrambled with egg and cheese

Revuelto de zapallitos is a weeknight dinner in Buenos Aires homes and all over Argentina in summer, when the little round courgettes called zapallitos are cheap: diced courgette and onion cooked down in oil, scrambled with eggs and finished with grated cheese. It is eaten with bread or as a side to a salad. Grated hard cheese like reggianito or Parmesan is usually made with animal rennet, so use a vegetarian hard cheese for a vegetarian dinner. The common mistake is adding the eggs before the courgettes have given up their water, which turns the scramble wet and grey. Chef's tip: salt the courgettes as they go in, so they release their juice early and it cooks away.

15 min

Argentinian Vegetarian

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Tostado de jamón y quesoPressed ham and cheese sandwich

The tostado is what Buenos Aires orders in a café at merienda or as a light late dinner, and what Uruguayan kids get made at home: thin crustless pan de miga layered with cooked pork ham and mild cheese, buttered outside and pressed until crisp and oozing. The common mistake is too much filling; this sandwich is meant to be thin, so the cheese melts before the bread burns. Chef's tip: if you have no sandwich press, weigh it down in the pan with a second heavy pan so it toasts flat and even.

9 min

Argentinian Fast Food

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Pan con butifarraHam roll with onion salsa

Pan con butifarra is Lima's evening sandwich, sold in old-school sangucherías and made at home for a light dinner with coffee: a crusty roll filled with jamón del país, a spiced Peruvian pork ham, under a heap of salsa criolla, red onion sliced thin and soaked in lime with chilli. Outside Peru, use a good cooked pork ham. The common mistake is leaving the onion harsh; give it a quick rinse in salted water before dressing it. Chef's tip: a leaf of lettuce under the ham stops the lime juice soaking straight into the bread.

10 min

Peruvian Meat

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Gato moutailleFried dough ropes in cardamom syrup

On Divali evening in Mauritius, Hindu households set out clay lamps and then walk plates of sweets round to their neighbours, Hindu, Muslim, Creole and Chinese alike; gato moutaille, gato cravate and gato zinzli are almost always on the plate. Moutaille (from the Bhojpuri mithai) are short ropes of soft dough twisted into knots or spirals, fried until crisp and soaked in a cardamom syrup so the outside is sticky and the inside stays slightly chewy. Common mistake: syrup that is too thick, which crystallises into a white crust; cook it only to one-string consistency, when a drop pulled between finger and thumb makes a single thread. Chef's tip: dip the moutaille while they are hot and the syrup is warm, then lift them out after a minute so they stay crisp.

60 min

Mauritian Indian Sweets

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Gato cravateBow-tie pastries

Gato cravate, 'tie cakes', are named for their shape: little strips of sweet dough slit down the middle and pulled through themselves into a twisted bow. In Mauritius they are fried by the tin in the week before Divali and packed with other sweets onto the plates that neighbours exchange on the night of the lamps; they also turn up at weddings and tea time. The pastry is lightly sweetened with sugar and vanilla, fried until blistered and crisp, then tossed in cinnamon sugar. Common mistake: rolling the dough thick, which gives a hard, bready bow; roll it as thin as a coin and fry until pale gold and the bubbling has nearly stopped, a sign the moisture has cooked out. Chef's tip: toss them in sugar while still warm so it sticks, and let them cool on a rack so they stay crisp.

50 min

Mauritian Indian Sweets

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Gato zinzliSesame caramel sweets

Zinzli is the Mauritian Creole word for sesame, and gato zinzli are the little amber squares or drops of toasted sesame set in caramelised sugar that crowd the edge of every Divali plate on the island, next to moutaille and cravate. They are close to the til chikki of India but made with white sugar, a squeeze of lime and a little vanilla, so they are glassy, crunchy and nutty. Common mistake: taking the caramel off too early, which gives chewy sweets that stick to your teeth; cook the sugar to a light amber, about the hard-crack stage, when a drop in cold water snaps cleanly. Chef's tip: have everything oiled and ready before you start, because once the sesame goes in you have only a minute or two to shape it.

30 min

Mauritian Indian Sweets

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Sopa de guandú con carne saladaPigeon pea soup with salted beef

On Colombia's Caribbean coast, and above all in Barranquilla around Carnival and Holy Week, families cook big pots of sopa de guandú, a hearty soup of pigeon peas and salted dried beef with yam, yuca and green plantain, flavoured with cumin, garlic and spring onion. It is eaten as a full meal with white rice, avocado and a little hot sauce, ideal to recover after the parades. The common mistake is not soaking the salted beef, which makes the whole pot far too salty. Chef's tip: grate a little of the green plantain into the broth; it thickens the soup naturally.

150 min

Colombian Soups

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