UmbadiyuClay-pot roasted vegetables
In the Valsad and Bulsar countryside of south Gujarat, the Uttarayan season brings roadside stalls roasting umbadiyu: a clay pot (matlu) is packed with surti papdi beans, baby potatoes, small sweet potatoes and purple yam, all slathered in green masala and layered with bitter kalar leaves, then turned upside down into a pit of smouldering straw and dung cakes for an hour or more. Unlike undhiyu, there is no gravy, no fried muthiya and no frying at all; the vegetables steam and roast in their own moisture and come out smoky, tender and coated in herbs and green garlic. At home a heavy pot on a low flame, set on a tava, does the job. Common mistake: adding water; you only need the oil and the vegetables' own juices, and it is done when a knife slides easily through the largest potato. Chef's tip: if you can't get kalar leaves, line the pot with banana leaf and a handful of ajwain leaves for the same leafy aroma.
































































































