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Pepper, beans and fruit salad

A big, bright salad of red, green and yellow peppers, boiled peanuts, sweet corn, grapes, apple and coconut, tossed in a sweet-sour passion fruit and mint dressing. It is very popular at big parties: it looks festive, keeps its crunch and is easy to double. Serve it on a bed of crisp lettuce.

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Espetada madeirenseGarlic and bay beef skewers

In Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, on the hillsides above Funchal, the September wine harvest ends with espetada: big cubes of beef rubbed with garlic, salt and crushed bay, threaded onto bay branches and roasted over a wood fire. Restaurants hang the long skewers from hooks above the table, so everyone slides off their own pieces. It is eaten with bolo do caco, milho frito and a salad. Chef's tip: cut the beef into large 4 cm cubes, which stay juicy in the middle while the outside chars.

35 min

Portuguese Meat

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Espinacs a la catalanaSpinach with raisins and pine nuts

This dish carries the sweet-and-savoury taste of medieval Catalan cooking: spinach wilted with plump raisins and toasted pine nuts, sometimes with a little pork fat or anchovy, though olive oil is just as traditional. Families cook it in spring and autumn as a side for fish or chicken, or as a light first course before the main. It takes ten minutes. Chef's tip: soak the raisins in warm water first so they swell and burst sweetly, instead of turning hard in the hot pan.

20 min

Spanish Sides

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EsqueixadaShredded salt cod salad

Esqueixada, from esqueixar, to tear, is the summer starter of Barcelona's old taverns: salt cod that has been soaked, shredded by hand and dressed with tomato, peppers, onion and black olives. Traditionally the cod is never cooked, only desalted, so it stays translucent and firm; raw cured fish is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. The safer version, given in the steps, poaches the cod gently first, and this is the one to choose whenever in doubt. Chef's tip: tear the cod with your fingers along its natural flakes; a knife makes it mushy and you lose the pleasing chew.

30 min

Spanish Salads

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Estamboli poloTomato rice with potatoes

In Tehran flats, estamboli polo is the weeknight rice that turns up when the fridge holds little more than tomatoes and potatoes, and children ask for it by name. Basmati is par-boiled, then layered back into the pot with a turmeric-and-tomato sauce and cubes of fried potato, and steamed under a cloth-wrapped lid until each grain is separate and orange-tinged. The bottom turns into a golden, crunchy tahdig that everyone fights over. Serve it with mast-o khiar, a plate of fresh herbs and torshi. A common mistake is stirring the tomato sauce through boiling rice, which makes it sticky; layer it instead and let the steam do the work. Chef's tip: lay thin potato slices on the base of the pot for the tahdig; they crisp evenly and lift out in one piece.

75 min

Persian Rice & Grains

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EsterházytorteAlmond meringue layer cake

Named after a Hungarian noble family and claimed by both Budapest and Vienna, this torte is a showpiece of Viennese pastry shops, where it sits in the glass counter beside richer chocolate cakes. Five or six crisp-chewy almond meringue layers are stacked with a vanilla custard buttercream, then topped with white icing and the famous feathered chocolate lines. It has no flour at all, so it suits gluten-free guests. A common mistake is baking the layers too pale; they should be light golden, or they go soft and sticky in the cream. Chef's tip: draw the circles on baking paper first and spread the meringue to the line with a palette knife, so every layer matches.

140 min

Austrian Baking

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Estocaficada (stockfish niçois)Dried cod stew with tomato

Estocaficada is the old winter dish of Nice's port and old town, where Norwegian stockfish arrived in exchange for olive oil and wine centuries ago; it is still cooked for family Friday lunches and at the city's food festivals. Air-dried cod is rehydrated and stewed slowly with tomatoes, onions, peppers, black olives and potatoes, giving a rich, rust-red stew with a deep, almost meaty flavour. True stockfish is hard to find outside specialist shops and needs 4–5 days of soaking, so this recipe uses salt cod, which is easier and gives a gentler result; the note explains both. Serve in deep plates with crusty bread for the sauce. Chef's tip: add the cod at the end and keep it at a gentle simmer so it stays in juicy flakes rather than turning rubbery.

105 min

French Fish

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Estofado de llamaBraised llama stew

Llama herds have grazed the Puna of Jujuy for thousands of years, and in Purmamarca, Tilcara and Humahuaca restaurants now proudly serve their meat to visitors, most often as a slow estofado. The meat is very lean, dark red and mild, a little like venison, and it is braised with onion, red pepper, tomato, cumin, ají molido and a sprig of muña or oregano until tender, then served with Andean potatoes, quinoa or rice. Outside the Andes, llama is sold by a few specialist game and alpaca farms; lean venison or beef topside are the closest substitutes. Treat it like beef and braise it until fork-tender. Because the meat has almost no fat, the common mistake is cooking it at a rolling boil, which makes it dry and stringy: keep the heat low and the lid on. Chef's tip: dust the meat lightly with a little cornflour before browning; it protects the lean pieces and thickens the sauce without making it heavy.

120 min

Argentinian Meat

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Estupeta de atumShredded tuna salad

Vila Real de Santo António and Tavira grew rich on tuna, and estupeta is what the fishing families made from the salted belly: shredded into threads and tossed with tomato, green pepper and onion in a sharp olive-oil dressing. Today it appears every summer in tascas along the Guadiana as a starter with bread and cold drinks. The traditional salted tuna is cured, not cooked, so it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system; this version uses fresh tuna poached until cooked through, which anyone can eat. Chef's tip: shred the tuna with two forks while it is still warm, as it pulls into finer threads.

30 min

Portuguese Salads

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Etli ekmekThin flatbread with lamb mince

In Konya, etli ekmek is the city's own fast food: dough stretched into a strip almost a metre long and thin as card, spread with hand-chopped lamb or beef, onion, tomato and pepper, baked for a few minutes in a stone oven and cut into squares with a pizza wheel. Unlike lahmacun, the topping is generous and the bread is crisp all the way through. At home, make shorter strips on a hot tray and serve with ayran, lemon and a heap of parsley and onion. Common mistake: piling the topping thick, which keeps the base soft; spread it thin right to the edges. The meat must reach 71 °C. Chef's tip: chop the mince again on a board with the onion and peppers; it spreads thinner and cooks faster.

50 min

Turkish Meat

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Etli nohutLamb and chickpea stew

Ask anyone in Turkey for the taste of a school lunch or a lokanta set menu and many will say etli nohut with pilav: chickpeas simmered with cubes of lamb, onion, tomato and pepper paste until the sauce is thick and the chickpeas creamy. Spooned over buttery rice with a few pickles alongside, it is cheap, filling and better the next day. Soaking dried chickpeas overnight makes the biggest difference. Common mistake: adding salt and tomato paste before the chickpeas are tender, which keeps them hard. Chef's tip: brown the lamb in batches so it sears instead of stewing in its own juice; that crust flavours the whole pot.

115 min

Turkish Meat

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Ev eriştesiEgg noodles with walnuts

Late summer in Sivas, Tokat and Kayseri villages means erişte days, when neighbours roll out huge sheets of egg dough, cut them into ribbons and dry them on cloths to last the winter. Freshly cut, they cook in minutes and are tossed with browned butter, toasted walnuts and crumbled white cheese, a simple dish that tastes of the farm. Common mistake: cutting the noodles before the rolled sheet has dried a little, so they stick into a clump; let it sit 15–20 minutes until leathery. Feta-style white cheese is often made with animal rennet; use a vegetarian one if needed. Chef's tip: toast a few raw noodles in the butter until golden before the boiled ones go in; they add a lovely crunch.

75 min

Turkish Pasta & Noodles

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Fabes con almejasWhite beans with clams

Along the coast, from Lastres to Ribadesella, fabes are cooked not with sausage but with clams, in a pale, saffron-tinted broth that tastes of the sea. It is a dish for a long weekend lunch in a seaside restaurant, eaten slowly with a spoon and bread. The broth uses a glass of dry white wine; an alcohol-free swap is given. Chef's tip: "scare" the beans by adding a splash of cold water whenever the pot boils up during cooking; it keeps the skins whole and the insides creamy.

175 min

Spanish Fish

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FartonsSweet glazed buns for dipping

In Alboraya, just north of Valencia, the horchaterías that serve cold tiger-nut horchata in summer put a plate of fartons beside every glass: long, slim, soft buns with a shiny sugar glaze, designed to be dunked and to soak up the milky drink without falling apart. The dough is enriched with egg, milk and sunflower oil rather than butter, which gives them their light, cottony crumb. They are just as good with coffee or cold milk. A common mistake is rushing the second rise; under-proved fartons stay tight and bready instead of airy. Chef's tip: roll each strip a little thinner than you think, about as thick as your finger, because they almost double in the oven.

45 min

Spanish Baking

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Fasulye turşusu kavurmasıFried pickled green beans

Every autumn, Black Sea households pack crocks with green beans and brine, and through the winter those sour, soft beans are fried with onion and a little butter or oil into one of the region's most loved side dishes. Kavurma means fried, and the beans take on golden edges while keeping their tangy bite; a beaten egg sometimes goes in at the end. Eat it with cornbread, rice pilaf or a bowl of fried anchovies. Common mistake: frying the beans straight from the jar; they spit and taste harshly sour. Chef's tip: soak them in fresh water for half an hour first, tasting as you go, until they are pleasantly sour rather than puckering.

30 min

Turkish Vegetarian

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Favas guisadas com chouriçoBroad beans with chouriço

When broad beans come in across the Alentejo in April and May, this is the dish that announces them: young beans stewed with chouriço and a little cured pork belly, garlic, onion and a big handful of coriander, until the beans are soft and the sauce is red with paprika fat. It is a weekday lunch with bread, or with a poached egg on top. This contains pork (chouriço and bacon). Frozen broad beans work well out of season. A common mistake is boiling the beans until they turn grey and mealy; stop when they are tender and still green. Chef's tip: a spoonful of vinegar at the end brightens the rich, fatty sauce.

50 min

Portuguese Meat

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Feijão tropeiroBeans with cassava flour and bacon

Mule drivers, the tropeiros, crossed Minas Gerais with sacks of beans, cassava flour and pork, and their trail food has become the state's pride: you will find feijão tropeiro at every comida mineira restaurant, at football grounds in Belo Horizonte and on Sunday tables, with rice, couve, torresmo and a grilled pork chop. The beans are cooked just tender, drained, and tossed in bacon and sausage fat with onions, scrambled egg, cassava flour and shredded collards, so the dish is moist but loose, smoky and very savoury. This is a pork dish: smoked bacon and pork sausage give it its flavour. If you start from dried beans, soak them overnight. The usual mistake is overcooking the beans; mushy beans turn the farofa into paste. For a vegetarian version, skip the meats and use butter and an extra egg. Chef's tip: add the farinha off the heat a handful at a time and stop when it looks moist and fluffy, not dry.

50 min

Brazilian Rice & Grains

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Feijoada à transmontanaRed beans with smoked sausages

In Trás-os-Montes the cold months were the months of the fumeiro, the smoking of sausages, and this bean stew was where those sausages ended up. Unlike the Brazilian black-bean feijoada, the transmontana version uses red or white beans, with pig's ear and trotter for body, chouriço and salpicão for smoke, and carrots and cabbage cooked in at the end. It is served for Sunday lunch in Chaves and Bragança with plain rice. This contains pork (ear, trotter, belly and smoked sausages). Chef's tip: cook the beans separately in their own water first, so the cured meats do not stop them softening.

210 min

Portuguese Meat

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Feijoada de búziosWhelk and butter bean stew

On the western Algarve coast around Sagres and Aljezur, whelks gathered from the rocks go into a thick, tomatoey bean stew that is the seaside cousin of the meat feijoada. It is winter food, served steaming from big pots at local festivals and in family kitchens, with rice on the side. This contains pork (chouriço); leave it out and add an extra teaspoon of smoked paprika if you prefer. Chef's tip: cook the whelks separately first so you can slice them and control their texture.

105 min

Portuguese Fish

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FiadoneLemon cheesecake

Fiadone is the cake of Corsican Easter and village feast days: fresh brocciu, the island's soft ewe's- or goat's-milk whey cheese, beaten with eggs, sugar and lemon zest and baked until the top is freckled brown. There is no base, so it is naturally gluten free, and it tastes lighter and less sweet than most cheesecakes. Brocciu is made from whey left after rennet cheesemaking, so it is not strictly vegetarian; well-drained ricotta labelled vegetarian is the usual stand-in outside Corsica. Some families add a spoon of local eau-de-vie; it is left out here. Chef's tip: drain the cheese well; a dry cheese gives the light, almost soufflé-like texture.

80 min

French Baking

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Fiambre de San MiguelCold pickled meat and fruit salad

In San Miguel de Allende, families make fiambre for All Saints' and the Day of the Dead at the start of November, setting it on the table and the home altar alongside bread of the dead. It is a cold, colourful platter of vinegar-dressed vegetables, beetroot, jícama, orange, apple and banana, with cooked chicken and pork, sharp, sweet and crunchy at once. Pickled pig's trotters are the traditional meat; this version makes them optional and uses cooked pork tongue or good ham with poached chicken, so it is still a pork dish. Serve well chilled with bread or tostadas. Chef's tip: dress the sturdy vegetables and meats hours ahead, but add the lettuce, banana and avocado just before serving so they stay fresh.

90 min

Mexican Salads

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FideuàSeafood noodle paella

Gandia, on the coast south of Valencia, claims fideuà as its own and holds a contest for it every summer: a paella pan of short, thin noodles toasted in oil and cooked in a deep seafood stock with monkfish, squid and prawns until the liquid has gone and the tips of the noodles curl upwards. It is served straight from the pan with a bowl of allioli to stir in. A common mistake is stirring once the stock is in; the noodles release starch and turn sticky instead of separate and slightly crisp. Use a well-flavoured fish stock, as it is the backbone of the dish. Chef's tip: finish the pan for a few minutes under a hot grill, the trick that makes the noodles stand up like little hooks.

55 min

Spanish Fish

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Filé à Oswaldo AranhaBeef fillet with fried garlic

Rio de Janeiro's old-school restaurants, the ones with white-jacketed waiters in Flamengo and Centro, have served this plate since the 1930s, named after the statesman who supposedly ordered it every day. It is simple and generous: a thick fillet steak, seared hard and buried under a pile of golden fried garlic, with white rice, buttery farofa and a heap of crisp potato straws. The garlic is sweet and nutty, the steak juicy, and the farofa soaks up the juices. Cook the steak to your liking; whole beef steaks are safe pink in the middle, but take them further if you prefer. The biggest mistake is frying the garlic too hot, which turns it bitter in seconds; it should go slowly from pale to light gold. Chef's tip: take the garlic out of the oil when it is only just golden, as it keeps darkening on the paper.

45 min

Brazilian Meat

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Fileja al pomodoro piccanteTwisted pasta in spicy tomato sauce

Around Vibo Valentia, on Calabria's Tyrrhenian side, fileja are still rolled by hand around a thin iron rod or knitting needle, which leaves a long, hollow twist that traps sauce inside and out. Nonne make trays of them for Sunday lunch and village sagre, and the classic dressing is a slow tomato sauce sharpened with Calabrian chilli and sweet red onion from nearby Tropea. Many local cooks melt a spoonful of 'nduja into the pan; this version keeps it vegetarian and lets the chilli carry the heat. Chef's tip: dust the needle with semolina, not flour, and twirl with the flat of your palm so each piece slides off cleanly.

65 min

Italian Pasta & Noodles

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FilloasThin Galician crêpes

When Entroido, the Galician carnival, comes round in February, kitchens in Lugo and Ourense fill with stacks of filloas, paper-thin pancakes cooked on a hot iron pan. In the countryside the pan was greased with a piece of pork fat and some villages still make a version with pig's blood at slaughter time; this sweet version uses butter and is vegetarian. They are rolled or folded and eaten with sugar, honey or a spoon of cream. A common mistake is a batter that is too thick: it should be as thin as single cream, so it runs across the pan in a lacy sheet. Chef's tip: rest the batter in the fridge for at least 30 minutes so the flour relaxes and the filloas don't tear.

40 min

Spanish Desserts

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Finkenwerder ScholleFried plaice with bacon and shrimps

Finkenwerder was a fishing village on an Elbe island, and the way its fishermen cooked plaice is now Hamburg's signature fish dish, eaten from May to autumn when plaice is plump. A whole fish is dusted and fried in butter, then covered with crisp cubes of smoked pork belly bacon and a handful of tiny brown North Sea shrimps warmed in the same pan, and served with parsley potatoes and cucumber salad. The bacon is pork; leave it out and add capers for a pork-free plate. Chef's tip: score the dark skin side lightly twice so the fish stays flat in the pan and cooks evenly to the bone.

40 min

German Fish

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Fırın kebabıSlow-roasted lamb on bread

Konya's fırın kebabı comes from the city's old tandır ovens, where whole sides of lamb hung for hours until the meat collapsed and the fat crisped. Served on a sheet of thin pide with the cooking juices soaked in, a raw onion on the side and a jug of ayran, it is a Sunday treat and a wedding dish. A low home oven and a tightly covered tray give the same soft, juicy result. Common mistake: uncovering it too soon; the lamb needs steamy, sealed heat for hours before it gets its final browning. Chef's tip: rest the cooked lamb on the bread, not on a board; the bread drinks up every drop of juice.

255 min

Turkish Meat

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FischbrötchenHerring roll with onion and gherkin

Fischbrötchen are what people eat standing up at the Landungsbrücken piers in Hamburg, on the Sunday fish market, or from a kiosk on the dyke at any North Sea harbour. A crusty white roll is filled with sharp marinated herring, raw onion rings, gherkin and a little crisp lettuce, and eaten in a few bites with the wind in your face. The herring is cured, not cooked, so use commercially prepared Bismarck-style marinated herring from the chilled counter, which has been frozen before curing as the law requires; it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. Chef's tip: slice the onion paper-thin and rinse it in cold water for a minute so it stays crunchy but stops shouting over the fish.

10 min

German Fish

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