Featured recipe

Irish potato soup

Potato soup is what Irish pubs and farmhouse kitchens set down on a wet afternoon from Kerry to Mayo, always with a heel of brown soda bread. Floury potatoes, onion and leek are sweated in butter and simmered in stock, then blended to a velvety, comforting soup with a gentle onion sweetness. A swirl of buttermilk and chives adds freshness. Chef's tip: sweat the leeks slowly without browning them; colour makes the soup taste bitter and turns it grey.

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Ash-e kashkWheat, bean and herb soup

Ash-e kashk is the winter ash of Khorasan and the central plateau, simmered in big pots in Mashhad and Neyshabur homes and served from the pot for long Friday lunches. Cracked wheat, chickpeas, beans and lentils cook down with a mountain of herbs until creamy and thick, then each bowl gets a swirl of kashk, crisp fried onion and sizzling mint oil. Kashk is fermented dried whey, made without rennet, so it is vegetarian. A common mistake is adding the herbs too early, which turns them grey and muddy; stir them in for the last 30 minutes only. Chef's tip: stir the kashk in a little hot broth before swirling, so it blends smoothly rather than splitting.

125 min

Persian Soups

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Ash-e shooliBeetroot, spinach and herb soup

In the desert city of Yazd, ash-e shooli is what grandmothers cook on the first cold nights of autumn and through winter, and what they bring to anyone with a cold. It is a thick, deep-red soup of beetroot, spinach and green herbs, thickened with a little flour and balanced between vinegar and a touch of sugar or date syrup, finished with fried mint. Nothing else in Iran tastes quite like it. A common mistake is adding the vinegar early, which keeps the beetroot hard; put it in once everything is tender. Chef's tip: taste and adjust at the very end, adding sour and sweet a spoon at a time until neither one wins.

80 min

Persian Soups

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Matjes HausfrauenartHerring in apple cream sauce

Matjes nach Hausfrauenart, 'housewife's matjes', is the early-summer plate of northern Germany, eaten when the new season's young herring arrives in June, from Glückstadt on the Elbe to the cafés of Emden. Mild, buttery matjes fillets are covered in a cool sauce of sour cream and yoghurt with crisp apple, onion and gherkin, and served with hot boiled new potatoes in their skins and sometimes green beans. Matjes is cured raw herring, so buy commercially prepared, previously frozen fillets from the chilled counter and keep them cold; it is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. Chef's tip: make the sauce first and let it chill for 20 minutes so the apple and onion flavour it before the fish goes in.

30 min

German Fish

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AşureWheat, bean and dried fruit pudding

In the month of Muharram, kitchens all over Anatolia, especially in conservative Konya and Sivas, boil great pots of aşure and send bowls to every neighbour, regardless of faith, so the sweet is as much about sharing as eating. Legend says it was cooked on Noah's ark from the last of the stores, which is why it combines whole wheat, chickpeas, white beans, dried apricots, figs and raisins in a thick, gently sweet pudding. It's topped with walnuts, pomegranate and cinnamon. Common mistake: adding sugar before the wheat is fully tender; sugar firms the grains and they never soften. Chef's tip: soak the wheat and pulses overnight and cook the wheat in its soaking water for the creamiest result.

150 min

Turkish Desserts

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Mate com limãoIced mate with lime

On Copacabana and Ipanema, vendors in orange uniforms trudge across the hot sand carrying two metal barrels, one of iced mate tea and one of limonada, shouting 'mate, limão!' and mixing the two in a plastic cup for each customer. The tea is chá mate tostado, roasted yerba mate leaves brewed like ordinary tea, with a smoky, toasty taste; with sweet lime lemonade it becomes the definitive carioca beach drink, cold, tangy and gently caffeinated. Toasted mate is sold loose or in tea bags in Brazilian shops; green yerba mate gives a grassier result. Squeezing the limes too hard, or blending them whole, is the usual pitfall, because the white pith turns the lemonade bitter. Chef's tip: brew the tea strong and chill it completely before mixing, so the ice does not dilute it.

15 min

Brazilian Drinks

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Atum de ceboladaTuna in onion sauce

From Vila Real de Santo António to Tavira, cebolada means a deep pan of onions cooked slowly in olive oil with garlic, bay and tomato, finished with a splash of vinegar, and tuna steaks laid in it to braise. Fishing families made it with the cheaper cuts from the tuna traps; restaurants still serve it on weekday lunch menus with boiled potatoes. Chef's tip: give the onions their full 25 minutes, so they turn sweet and jammy before the tuna goes in.

60 min

Portuguese Fish

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Atún encebolladoTuna stewed with onions

When the almadraba nets bring bluefin tuna ashore in Barbate and Zahara de los Atunes in May and June, households along the Cádiz coast make atún encebollado: chunks of tuna braised in a mountain of onions cooked down until sweet and golden, with bay, pepper and a splash of fino. Any good tuna steak works the rest of the year. This recipe uses wine; the alcohol-free option is in the ingredient note. Chef's tip: the onions take the time, the tuna does not; add it only for the last few minutes, or it turns dry and grey.

65 min

Spanish Fish

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AuszogneStretched doughnuts

Auszogne are the doughnuts of the Bavarian countryside, fried for Kirchweih, the village church fair in autumn, and for Carnival. Each ball of rich yeast dough is pulled over the knees or the backs of the hands so the middle goes almost see-through while a thick, puffy ring stays round the edge; the centre fries crisp, the rim soft and fluffy. They are eaten warm with icing sugar and a cup of coffee. A common mistake is pulling the dough cold: it tears. Let the stretched rounds rest, and keep the oil at a steady 170 °C so the rims cook through before they brown. Chef's tip: stretch them on lightly buttered fingertips, not floured ones, so the dough slides without sticking.

70 min

German Desserts

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Avena colombianaChilled oat drink

Bakeries all over Colombia keep a fridge of avena in plastic cups, ready to pair with a warm pandebono, buñuelo or almojábana. It is a thick, sweet oat drink cooked in milk with cinnamon and cloves, then blended smooth and chilled until it is creamy and spoonable, somewhere between a milkshake and rice pudding. Children drink it after school, and it is a common mid-morning snack with something baked. Home versions are less sweet and more spiced than shop ones. The thing to watch is texture: if you skip blending or straining, you end up with slimy flecks of oats, so blend thoroughly once it is cooked. It thickens a lot as it chills, so loosen it with cold milk before serving. Chef's tip: toast the oats in the dry pan for 2 minutes first; it gives a nutty, biscuity flavour.

25 min

Colombian Drinks

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Axoa de veauMinced veal and pepper stew

Axoa (say 'ash-o-a') comes from Espelette, the Basque village whose house fronts are hung with strings of drying red peppers every autumn, and it is still the dish of the October pepper fair and of market-day lunches in Cambo and Bayonne. Veal shoulder is cut into small dice, then stewed with onions, mild green peppers and a good spoonful of ground Espelette pepper, which brings warmth and a fruity, smoky perfume rather than real fire. The result is soft, juicy and brick-red at the edges, best spooned over boiled potatoes or with crusty bread. Chef's tip: stir most of the Espelette pepper in at the end of cooking; long simmering dulls its fragrance.

70 min

French Meat

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Matambre arrolladoRolled stuffed flank steak

Christmas and New Year in Argentina fall in high summer, so the festive table is crowded with cold dishes, and matambre arrollado is the one that draws a crowd: a thin sheet of beef from between the ribs and skin (matambre, the rose or flank cut), spread with garlic and parsley, layered with hard-boiled egg, carrot and red pepper, rolled into a fat sausage, poached and pressed. Rotiserías in the Buenos Aires suburbs sell it by the slice, and each round shows a mosaic of colours. Served cold with Russian salad and a sharp chimichurri, it is tender and savoury. Because the outside of the meat ends up rolled inside, cook it to a core temperature of 71 °C, as for minced meat. The usual mistake is slicing it warm: it falls apart, so press it under a weight in the fridge overnight. If you can't find matambre, ask the butcher for a thin flank steak butterflied to 1 cm. Chef's tip: lay the meat with the grain running along the roll, so each slice cuts across the fibres and stays tender.

180 min

Argentinian Meat

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Corned beef and cabbage

In Boston, Irish families made corned beef the centre of St Patrick's Day, swapping the bacon joint of home for the cheaper brisket sold by Jewish butchers, and New Englanders still call the whole pot a boiled dinner. Salt-cured beef brisket is simmered for hours with spices, then potatoes, carrots and wedges of cabbage cook in the same broth. Serve with grainy mustard. Chef's tip: slice the beef across the grain, thinly; cut along the grain it looks stringy and chews tough.

230 min

American Meat

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Matambre a la pizzaFlank steak with tomato and mozzarella

Weekend asados around Buenos Aires usually end with a show-off dish from the grill, and matambre a la pizza is the one that makes children cheer: a whole sheet of matambre (the thin flank cut that sits under the skin) cooked slowly until tender, flipped, then spread with tomato sauce, oregano and mozzarella and left on the grill until the cheese bubbles. Parrillas in the suburbs sell it cut into squares. Many cooks first simmer the meat in milk, which keeps the lean cut juicy and soft; that is the method here, finished under a hot grill or in the oven if you have no barbecue. Matambre is eaten well done and tender rather than pink. The usual mistake is grilling it straight away like a steak, which leaves it leathery: slow cooking first is what makes it tender. Chef's tip: score the membrane on the fatty side in a criss-cross before cooking, so the sheet stays flat instead of curling up when it hits the heat.

120 min

Argentinian Meat

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MatafanThick potato pancake

The name is said to come from 'mate faim', 'kills hunger', and that is what this thick pancake did for farmers in the Savoie and Bauges mountains, who ate it for breakfast before a day in the fields or the high pastures. Every valley makes it differently; this version is a golden cake of grated potato, egg and a little milk, cooked slowly in butter and finished with Beaufort, served cut into wedges with a green salad or a fried egg. Beaufort is made with animal rennet; a vegetarian mountain-style cheese works too, or leave it out and serve the matafan with jam for a sweet version. Chef's tip: squeeze the grated potato really hard in a tea towel; the drier it is, the crisper the crust.

40 min

French Breakfast & Brunch

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Mecklenburger RippenbratenApple and prune stuffed pork belly

Mecklenburger Rippenbraten is the Christmas and Sunday roast of Mecklenburg on the Baltic coast, a flat piece of pork belly spread with apple and prunes, rolled, tied and roasted until the skin crackles. The fruit melts into the meat and turns the pan juices into a sweet, dark gravy, served with red cabbage and boiled potatoes. The prunes are sometimes soaked in rum; here they are soaked in apple juice, so the dish is alcohol-free. Chef's tip: dry the scored skin uncovered in the fridge overnight; dry skin is what puffs into crackling.

180 min

German Meat

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Rhode Island clam cakes

At beach shacks along Narragansett Bay and in Galilee, clam cakes are bought by the paper bag, half a dozen at a time, to dunk in a cup of clear clam chowder. They are not patties but craggy, golden fritters, crisp outside and soft inside, studded with chopped quahog clams. Chef's tip: use the clam juice as part of the liquid; it puts the sea flavour into every bite of batter.

40 min

American Fish

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Ayran aşıChilled yoghurt and wheat soup

When the summer heat hits the eastern plateau around Erzurum, Erzincan and Sivas, families switch from hot soups to ayran aşı, a cold soup of thinned yoghurt with cooked whole wheat, chickpeas and handfuls of mint, dill and purslane or cucumber. It's ladled from a big bowl at lunch with flatbread, and it's as refreshing as a drink but filling as a meal. Common mistake: adding the grains while still hot, which makes the yoghurt split and turn sour-tasting; cool them completely first. Chef's tip: make it a few hours before serving and chill; the wheat soaks up the yoghurt and the herbs perfume the whole bowl.

60 min

Turkish Soups

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Ayva tatlısıPoached quince with clotted cream

In autumn the market stalls of Ankara and Kayseri are piled with knobbly yellow quinces, and the best-loved thing to make with them is ayva tatlısı: halves poached slowly in syrup with their own seeds and a few cloves until they turn translucent and a deep garnet colour. Each half is filled with thick kaymak or clotted cream and topped with pistachio. Common mistake: rushing it on a high heat; the red colour only comes with long, gentle cooking. Chef's tip: tie the cores and seeds in a little muslin bag and cook them with the fruit; their natural pectin and tannins give the syrup body and that ruby glow.

95 min

Turkish Desserts

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Ayvalık tostuSausage, cheese and pickle toastie

Ayvalık, the olive-oil town on the north Aegean, turned the humble cheese toastie into a feast: a long, soft loaf split and stuffed with kaşar, beef sucuk, beef salami, tomatoes and pickles, pressed hot, then opened up again to be piled with ketchup, mayonnaise and Russian salad. It is eaten for breakfast or as a late snack after a swim. This one has beef sausage and salami, so check the label if you avoid pork. Chef's tip: press it twice, once with the cheese and meats, then again after opening it to add the cold toppings, so the bread stays crisp.

25 min

Turkish Meat

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Azevias de grãoSweet chickpea fried pastries

Come December, Alentejo kitchens fill with the smell of these: thin, crisp pastries folded around a sweet chickpea paste flavoured with orange and cinnamon, fried until blistered and rolled in cinnamon sugar. Families make them by the hundred and share them with neighbours over Christmas. Many recipes add a splash of aguardente, a grape spirit containing alcohol, to the dough for crispness; it is optional here, and orange juice alone works. This version contains no egg or dairy. A common mistake is rolling the dough too thick; it should be thin enough to see light through, so it bubbles and crisps. Chef's tip: make the filling the day before; cold, firm filling is far easier to wrap.

90 min

Portuguese Desserts

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MasteloClay-pot Easter lamb with dill

Sifnos is an island of potters, and its Easter dish is named after the deep clay pot it is cooked in: lamb or kid laid on a bed of vine prunings, splashed with red wine, scattered with dill and sealed in the baker's oven overnight. The meat steams in the wine and its own juices until it falls from the bone, smelling of dill and woodsmoke, and is served on Easter Sunday with potatoes and bread. This recipe uses red wine; for an alcohol-free version use red grape juice with 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar. Common mistake: opening the pot to check, which lets the steam escape and dries the lamb. Chef's tip: if you can't get vine twigs, a few thick slices of onion or a small rack under the meat stops it sitting in the liquid.

230 min

Greek Meat

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Bacalao a la vizcaínaSalt cod in red pepper sauce

Bilbao's great salt cod dish shows up every Lent and on Good Friday, and in the city's old taverns its sauce is judged as fiercely as the fish. The sauce is made only from onions cooked for a long time and the flesh of dried choricero peppers, with no tomato, which gives it its deep red colour and gentle sweetness. Salt cod needs 36–48 hours of soaking in the fridge, so start two days ahead. A common mistake is hurrying the onions: they need at least 40 minutes on a low heat to turn soft and sweet. Chef's tip: taste a flake of the soaked cod before cooking, and if it's still salty, soak it a few hours more.

105 min

Spanish Fish

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Mast-o musirYoghurt with wild shallots

Every kebab house in Tehran puts a little bowl of mast-o musir on the table beside the chelow, and at home it sits next to Friday lunch the same way. Musir is a wild mountain shallot from the Zagros, sold dried in slices; once soaked it is mild, garlicky and faintly sweet, and it gives thick yogurt a sharp bite. The one mistake to avoid is skipping the long soak, which leaves the shallots tough and bitter. If you cannot find musir, see the swap in the steps. Chef's tip: make it a few hours ahead; the shallot flavour deepens as it sits in the fridge.

15 min

Persian Chutneys & Dips

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Massa sovadaSweet lemon bread

Sovar means to knead hard, and Azorean women once kneaded this rich bread dough for an hour by hand before Easter and the Holy Spirit feasts of early summer, when loaves are blessed and shared with the whole parish. The crumb is soft, golden and feathery, with a tight, dark shiny crust. Slices are eaten plain with coffee, toasted with butter, or used to soak up the juices of alcatra on Terceira. A common mistake is baking before the loaf has doubled, which gives a dense, cakey crumb. Chef's tip: give it a slow, full rise, which is what gives the bread its fine, cotton-soft crumb.

80 min

Portuguese Baking

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Bacalhau à Gomes de SáBaked salt cod and potatoes

Named after the Porto cod merchant who is said to have created it in the late nineteenth century, this is the city's most loved salt cod dish and a fixture of Christmas Eve and family gatherings across the north. Cod is soaked, warmed in milk, flaked and baked with sliced potatoes and plenty of onions softened in olive oil, then crowned with hard-boiled eggs and black olives. Chef's tip: steep the cod in hot milk rather than boiling it, so the flakes stay moist and come apart in big, glossy pieces.

80 min

Portuguese Fish

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Bacalhau à minhotaFried salt cod with onions

Every Minho restaurant has its bacalhau à minhota on Fridays: a thick loin of salt cod, floured and fried in olive oil, served with crisp potato slices and a tangle of onions cooked in the same oil with garlic and paprika. It is plain, generous country food that relies on good fish. Start two days ahead, as the cod must soak in the fridge to lose its salt. A common mistake is skipping the taste test after soaking; fry a flake first, and soak longer if it is still very salty. Chef's tip: taste a flake of the soaked cod before cooking; if it is still too salty, give it another change of water.

70 min

Portuguese Fish

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Bacalhau à Zé do PipoSalt cod with mayonnaise mash

Zé do Pipo was the nickname of a Porto tavern keeper in the 1960s whose cod won a national cooking competition, and the dish became a celebration plate in northern restaurants ever since. Thick cod loins sit on a bed of slow-cooked onions, are covered in mayonnaise and ringed with piped mashed potato, then baked until the top turns golden and blistered. Use a good shop-bought mayonnaise made with pasteurised egg; homemade mayonnaise with raw yolks is not for pregnant women, young children or anyone with a weakened immune system. A common mistake is a runny purée; the potato must be stiff enough to pipe, or it slumps under the mayonnaise. Chef's tip: pipe the mash while it is still warm, as cold mash cracks.

80 min

Portuguese Fish

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Bacalhau com broaSalt cod with cornbread crust

In central Portugal, where corn broa is the everyday bread, cooks crumble it over thick salt cod loins with garlic, parsley and olive oil, and the dish has become a favourite on restaurant menus from Coimbra to Leiria, especially for Christmas Eve and festive lunches. The crumb crust turns crunchy and golden while the cod stays moist and flaky underneath. It comes with punched potatoes and greens. Chef's tip: use broa that is a day or two old, as fresh crumb goes soggy instead of crisp.

75 min

Portuguese Fish

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Baccalà mantecatoWhipped salt cod

No cicchetti bar in Venice is without a bowl of baccalà mantecato: dried salt cod soaked, poached and beaten with olive oil until it turns pale, fluffy and spreadable, then piled on squares of grilled polenta or toasted bread to eat standing at the counter with a glass of something. It is mild, creamy and gently garlicky, despite containing no cream at all. Venetians traditionally use stockfish (air-dried cod), which is hard to find elsewhere, so this version uses salted cod, which is easier to buy and behaves the same way. The cod needs two days of soaking in the fridge, so start early. Chef's tip: beat the oil in a thin trickle, the way you would make mayonnaise; it is the slow addition that gives the light, creamy texture.

60 min

Italian Snacks & Starters

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Badem ezmesiAlmond paste sweets

Edirne, on the Thracian border with Greece and Bulgaria, is famous for its badem ezmesi: pale, soft almond paste rolled into logs and sliced, or pressed into little shapes, sold beside the city's fruit-shaped soaps. It is less sugary than northern European marzipan, with blanched almonds ground fine and cooked briefly with syrup, so it stays moist and tastes of fresh nuts. It is served with Turkish coffee and given at bayram. Chef's tip: grind the almonds in short pulses with a spoonful of the sugar; long blending turns them oily and the paste goes greasy.

45 min

Turkish Desserts

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Stuffed baby aubergine torshiStuffed baby aubergine pickle

This is the showpiece of the torshi shelf, made in late summer in homes from Isfahan to Mashhad and brought out for guests in the cold months. Finger-length aubergines are steamed until just tender, slit along one side, filled with a paste of garlic, mint, parsley, coriander and chilli, then tied and sunk in vinegar. After a month each one is soft, tangy and stained with herbs; they are served whole beside rice, kabab or a bowl of ash. Chef's tip: steam rather than boil the aubergines, so they don't soak up water that later thins the vinegar.

65 min

Persian Chutneys & Dips

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Kaburga dolmasıRice-stuffed lamb breast

In Mardin and Diyarbakır, a stuffed lamb breast is the centrepiece of bayram and wedding tables: the butcher cuts a pocket between the ribs and the meat, which is filled with rice cooked with almonds, currants, allspice and cinnamon, sewn shut and baked slowly until the meat falls from the bones. The rice inside soaks up all the lamb juices. Ask the butcher to open the pocket for you. Common mistake: packing the rice tightly when it is raw; it needs room to swell or the pocket splits. Chef's tip: roast it covered for most of the time, then uncover and turn the heat up at the end for crackling-crisp fat.

250 min

Turkish Meat

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BaeckeoffeThree-meat and potato bake

Baeckeoffe means "baker's oven" in Alsatian, and in villages around Strasbourg and Colmar the dish was once carried to the baker's dying oven on a Monday to cook slowly while the week's washing was done. Pork shoulder, lamb and beef are marinated overnight in dry Alsace white wine with onion, garlic and herbs, then layered with potatoes in a lidded earthenware dish whose rim is sealed with a strip of flour-and-water dough. After three hours the potatoes have drunk up the wine and meat juices and the three meats fall apart under a spoon. The dish uses wine, but an alcohol-free version with stock is given in the ingredient notes; serve it straight from the pot with a green salad. Chef's tip: break the dough seal at the table, because the burst of steam and the smell of wine and thyme are half the pleasure.

950 min

French Meat

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Baghala ghatoghDill and broad bean stew

In Rasht and the villages of Gilan, baghala ghatogh is cooked in late spring when the slender local broad beans called pach baghala are in the markets, and later in the year with frozen ones. The beans are simmered in their thin skins with a great deal of garlic and dill, then eggs are cracked on top and left to set softly, and the whole pan is eaten with plain kateh rice and a few pickled garlic cloves. It is humble, green and fragrant. A common mistake is stirring the eggs right in, which turns the stew grey; leave them whole so the yolks stay just runny. Chef's tip: cook the dill in butter or oil before the water goes in; it blooms and tastes far deeper than dill added at the end.

40 min

Persian Vegetarian

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Baghali pokhteBoiled broad beans with vinegar

When autumn rain sets in over Rasht, and through the winter on Tehran street corners, sellers ladle steaming broad beans in their skins from giant pots into paper cones. The beans are soaked overnight and boiled slowly until creamy, then each bowlful is sprinkled with sharp golpar (ground Persian hogweed seed), salt and a splash of vinegar. You pinch the beans out of their skins as you eat. A common mistake is salting the cooking water early, which keeps the skins tough. Chef's tip: golpar is strong and smells a little like celery and citrus; start with a light dusting and add more at the table.

95 min

Persian Snacks & Starters

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Palets bretonsSalted butter biscuits

Palets are the thick cousin of the thin Breton galette biscuit: chunky rounds as wide as a small cookie and nearly a centimetre high, crisp on the outside and crumbly within, tasting strongly of salted butter. Bakeries in Pont-Aven and all along the Finistère coast sell them in tins, and Breton families serve them with coffee, with a bowl of cider-poached apples or crumbled over ice cream. Baking them in muffin tins or metal rings keeps their shape and straight edges. Chef's tip: use proper salted butter rather than adding salt to unsalted; the flavour is rounder and the dough handles better.

38 min

French Baking

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