Fishermen of the Kerkennah islands, off Sfax, still catch octopus in clay pots laid on the shallow seabed, and in winter the season's catch turns up in harbour cafés and home kitchens as this simple salad. The octopus is simmered slowly until tender, cooled in its broth, then sliced and tossed with red onion, plenty of parsley, lemon juice and good olive oil, with a little harissa if you like. It is light, clean and briny, eaten as a starter with bread or on a summer table of salads and grilled fish. Buy octopus from a reputable fishmonger; frozen and thawed octopus is often more tender than fresh. A common mistake is boiling the octopus at a rolling boil, which makes it rubbery; keep it at a gentle simmer until a knife slides in easily. Chef's tip: let the cooked octopus cool in its cooking liquid for 20 minutes before slicing; it stays juicy rather than tightening up.
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These pendas (pedas) take minutes in the microwave: milk powder, cream, sugar and ground almonds cook together into a soft fudge flavoured with cardamom and saffron, then are shaped into rounds. They're milky, nutty and melt in the mouth. Makes about 35 — press them into small moulds for pretty shapes.
A rich, creamy vermicelli pudding: thin vermicelli roasted until golden, then simmered in milk until it reduces by half and flavoured with saffron and cardamom. Vanilla ice cream stirred in at the end makes it extra smooth and cool. Serve chilled after a festive meal, scattered with almond and pistachio flakes.
An upside-down cake: poached apple slices, cinnamon, chocolate sauce and macadamia nuts go in the bottom of the tin, a vanilla sponge is baked on top, and the cake is turned out to show the apples. Serve warm with custard sauce. Contains egg.
An eggless Christmas cake: sultanas, raisins, currants, cherries and peel are soaked overnight in apple juice, then baked with nuts, pumpkin seeds, lemon rind, ginger, cinnamon and a splash of brandy or rum. Start the day before.
A moist eggless cake made with semolina, coconut and yogurt, baked with slivered almonds on the bottom and top and moistened with orange juice. Serve with coconut ice cream or custard sauce.
Barfi churmoo is a rich Gujarati sweet: a firm dough of coarse wheat flour and gram flour is fried in ghee, ground to an even crumb, then bound with roasted mawa (khoya), hot ghee and saffron syrup and set in a tray. It's crumbly, fragrant with cardamom and nutmeg and topped with nuts. Makes about 40 pieces, perfect for Diwali boxes and weddings.
A homely eggless cake made with crushed Weetabix (wheat biscuit cereal), chopped apple, cashews and cinnamon, bound with condensed milk. Serve warm with ice cream.
A soft, fudgy halwa of fresh coconut and cashews cooked in sweetened milk with cardamom and a little ghee, rolled out thin and topped with almond and pistachio flakes. It's creamy, nutty and melt-in-the-mouth. Makes about 30 squares for festivals or a gift box.
A classic buttery loaf cake dotted with glacé cherries and sultanas, perfect sliced at tea time. Toss the fruit in a little flour so it stays spread through the cake. Contains egg.
A simple, eggless fruit cake made with condensed milk, packed with mixed nuts, dried fruit and cherries and warmed with ginger and cinnamon. The book says it can be used as a wedding cake.
A dark, moist eggless chocolate sponge, split and moistened with orange juice, filled and covered with whipped fresh cream, and finished with halved strawberries and grated chocolate. A show-stopping birthday cake.
Crisp, buttery half-moon pastries filled with chopped apricots, pears, figs, cherries and almonds soaked in honey with a little cardamom and cinnamon. They're sweet, fruity and lightly spiced. Serve them hot with ice cream, or cold with tea; the recipe makes about 36 small pastries.
A colourful no-bake pudding: a base of biscuit crumbs moistened with pineapple syrup and topped with fresh coconut, covered with a fluffy custard cream and finished with pineapple, cherries, kiwi, grapes and strawberries. It's light, creamy and fruity. Pipe whipped cream around the edge and serve chilled.
A light, set lemon cheesecake: home-made cottage cheese beaten with sugar, lemon and egg yolks, set with gelatine and lightened with whisked egg whites and cream, on a ginger biscuit base. It's fresh, tangy and fluffy. Note that it uses raw eggs and gelatine, which isn't vegetarian; see the last step for an agar-agar swap. Not suitable for pregnant women, young children or the elderly because of the raw egg.
The book's basic no-churn ice cream: whipped cream and whisked frozen evaporated milk, sweetened and flavoured with vanilla, then frozen. It's smooth, light and needs no machine. Serve it with chocolate sauce and roasted chopped nuts, or try one of the variations.
A no-churn vanilla ice cream layered with home-made peanut crunch: roasted peanuts stirred into caramelised sugar, cooled and coarsely ground. It's creamy, crunchy and salty-sweet. Makes about 3 litres; the book also gives chocolate and cashew crunch versions.
A tropical take on trifle: biscuits soaked in sherry or fruit juice, then layered with orange jelly, mango, kiwi and passion fruit, thick custard and softly whipped cream, finished with toasted almonds. It's fruity, creamy and colourful. Ordinary packet jelly is made with gelatine, which isn't vegetarian, and sherry is alcoholic; the steps give swaps for both.
A no-churn cassata of three layers frozen together: vanilla with chopped nuts, strawberry, and mint with chocolate chips. The base is whipped cream and whisked frozen evaporated milk, so no ice-cream machine is needed. It makes about 3 litres; slice it for parties.
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