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Trini fry bake

Puffy fried breakfast bread

On Saturday and Sunday mornings across Port of Spain, a bowl of dough becomes a pile of golden, hollow-bellied bakes that get split open and stuffed with buljol, smoked herring, cheese or a fried egg. They are soft and slightly chewy inside with a thin, blistered crust, nothing like the dense coconut bake baked in the oven. The usual mistake is frying in oil that is not hot enough: the bakes soak up fat and stay flat instead of ballooning. A short rest for the dough helps them puff. Chef's tip: roll the rounds no thicker than 5 mm and spoon hot oil over the top as they fry, and almost every one will inflate like a pillow.

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