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Wienerbrød

Custard pastries with icing

What the world calls a Danish, Danes call wienerbrød, 'Viennese bread', after Austrian bakers who brought laminated pastry to Copenhagen in the 1850s. The spandauer is the classic: a square of flaky, buttery dough folded in at the corners around a dollop of vanilla custard or remonce (almond butter cream), baked until puffed and glazed with icing. Copenhagen bakeries sell them warm in the morning. A common mistake is letting the butter warm and melt into the dough; the layers vanish. Chef's tip: work cold, chill between every fold, and bake hot, so the butter turns to steam and puffs the layers.

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